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 Lot 457. Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Mystery-Set Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet. Estimate 80,000 — 120,000 USD & Lot 458. Platinum, Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate 125,000 — 175,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

NEW YORK, NY.- Just in time for the holidays, Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Fine Jewels auctions will be held in New York on 8 & 9 December 2016. Both sales feature a wonderful array of signed and iconic jewels by renowned houses including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Tiffany & Co. and David Webb, alongside rare designs by Suzanne Belperron, Paul Flato, JAR and René Lalique. This year, the sales are further distinguished by exceptional provenance from private collections that have been amassed over decades.  

PROPERTY FROM THE FAMILY OF BETSEY CUSHING WHITNEY & JOHN HAY WHITNEY 
This December, Sotheby’s is privileged to offer jewels from the Whitney family collection, specifically, Property from the Family of Betsey Cushing Whitney and John Hay Whitney. In 1998, Sotheby’s presented the landmark auction of Jewels from the Estate of Betsey Cushing Whitney. The sale was the result of a loving collaboration between Betsey Cushing Whitney and her husband, John Hay Whitney, each jewel symbolizing a moment in their journey together. The collection on offer in the Magnificent Jewel sale represent decades of innovative design from some of the most sought after jewelers, including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Verdura and Bulgari. 

The jewels reveal a passionate and thoughtful collection, ranging from a whimsical a Black Opal, Pearl And Diamond 'Naiad' Brooch by Verdura (estimate $10/15,000) to a classic 18 Karat Gold, Platinum and Diamond Brooch by Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., France (estimate $5/7,000) to a grand Coral, Amethyst, Turquoise and Diamond Necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels, France (estimate $40/60,000). 

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Lot 358. 18 Karat Gold, Black Opal, Pearl and Diamond 'Naiad' Brooch, VerduraEstimate 10,000 — 15,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

Designed as a naiad, the tail set with a black opal measuring approximately 23.9 by 14.1 mm, the hair set with round and single-cut diamonds weighing approximately .75 carat, the figure holding bubbles represented by pearls measuring approximately 4.9 to 3.0 mm, completed by textured gold fins, gross weight approximately 32 dwts, signed Verdura.

 LiteratureIllustrated in Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler, Patricia Corbett.

Please note the pearls have not been tested for natural origin.

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Lot 386. 18 Karat Gold, Platinum and Diamond Brooch, Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., FranceEstimate 5,000 — 7,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

Of foliate design, set with round diamonds weighing approximately 3.50 carats, signed Tiffany Schlumberger, Made in France.

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Lot 401. 18 Karat Gold, Coral, Amethyst, Turquoise and Diamond Necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, FranceEstimate 40,000 — 60,000 USD. Photo Sotheby's

The gold ropetwist chain spaced at intervals with eight coral beads flanked by smaller amethyst beads, supporting a tassel composed of coral, turquoise and amethyst, set throughout with round diamonds weighing approximately 11.25 carats, length 35 inches, signed V.C.A., numbered N.Y. 41153; circa 1970.

NoteA necklace of similar design is illustrated in Van Cleef & Arpels: The Art of High Jewelry, edited by Évelyne Possémé, page 208. 

PROPERTY FROM A NEW YORK COLLECTION 
This season the sale will offer A Rare Platinum, Colored Stone and Diamond 'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet by Cartier, London (estimate $700/900,000) that beautifully showcases the ultimate craftsmanship for which Cartier is known. The epitome of Eastern influences on Art Deco designs, Tutti Frutti pieces by Cartier are jeweled masterpieces. The artful arrangement of carved colored stones and diamonds serve to tell a story that only Cartier could author. The designs have long enchanted jewelry connoisseurs; the present example with its vibrant hues and highly flexible form is both a wonder to see and a wonder to wear. 

 

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Lot 408. A Rare Platinum, Colored Stone and Diamond 'Tutti Frutti' Bracelet, Cartier, London. Estimate 700,000 — 900,000 USD. Photo Sotheby's

PROPERTY FROM THE COLLECTION OF MARJORIE S. FISHER, PALM BEACH 
The December sale of Magnificent Jewels will begin with a session dedicated to the beloved philanthropist and collector, Marjorie S. Fisher. Well known in both Palm Beach and Detroit, Mrs. Fisher and her husband, Max M. Fisher (1908-2005), co-founded the Max M. & Marjorie S. Fisher Foundation in Detroit, and in Palm Beach, Mrs. Fisher funded the construction of two new clubhouses for the Boys and Girls Clubs of Palm Beach County one named ‘The Max,’ the other ‘The Marge.’ A dedicated release is available. 

Mrs. Fisher’s eclectic and discerning eye for design and style is epitomized in her encyclopedic collection covering more than 150 years of jewelry history, spanning from a celestial-inspired Silver, Gold and Diamond Tiara (estimate $15/30,000) made circa 1890, to a mid-century Sapphire and Diamond ‘Wrapped Heart’ Brooch by Verdura (estimate $30/40,000), to a pair of 21st century Chrysoprase, Pink Opal and Diamond Earclips by JAR (estimate $60/80,000). The collection is led by a stunning Platinum and Diamond Ring (estimate $1.25/1.75 million). The ring features a marquise-cut diamond weighing 18.04 carats, D color, VVS1 clarity and potentially internally flawless.  

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Lot 97. Silver-Topped Gold and Diamond Tiara, circa 1890Estimate 25,000 — 35,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

Designed as five starburst jewels, each set with round and rose-cut diamonds weighing a total of approximately 17.00 carats; accompanied by two tiara fittings, five hair pins set en tremblant, five pendant fittings and five brooch fittings; circa 1890. With fitted case embossed K.F.T. on the outside.

ProvenanceFormerly in the collection of Katier Frances Thesiger who is believed to have been the Aunt of the great explorer, Wilfred Thesiger.

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Lot 4. 18 Karat Gold, Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond 'Wrapped Heart' Brooch, VerduraEstimate 30,000— 40,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

The bombé heart set with numerous cabochon sapphires weighing approximately 76.50 carats, wrapped within ribbons and topped by a bow set with round diamonds weighing approximately 4.00 carats, gross weight approximately 32 dwts, signed Verdura, with workshop mark.

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Lot 203. Pair of Silver, 18 Karat Gold, Chrysoprase, Pink Opal and Diamond Earclips, JAR, Paris. Estimate 60,000 — 80,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

Composed of circular chrysoprase segments measuring approximately 30.0 mm, set at the sides with cabochon pink opals measuring approximately 18.0 mm, accented by single-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.60 carats, signed JAR, Paris, with French assay and workshop marks. With signed pouch. 

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Lot 205. Important Platinum and 18.04 carats, D color, VVS1 clarity Diamond Ring. Estimate 1,250,000 — 1,750,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

ROPERTY FROM THE LICHTBLAU COLLECTION 
The Magnificent Jewels sale will include a spectacular assemblage of signed jewelry from the collection of George and Anne Licthblau. George Lichtblau, a passionate technology entrepreneur, studied electrical engineering at Princeton University before attending Harvard Business School, after which he became an early innovator in the fiber optic industry, founding two highly successful transmission companies. Anne, also known as Gladys, graduated from Simmons College before marrying George in 1968. Together their love of the arts, coupled with their understanding of the importance of technology, would guide their lifelong personal passions, as well as their generous philanthropic endeavors.  

The Lichtblau’s jewelry collection reflects their keen eye for timeless designs by renowned houses including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Tiffany & Co. Leading this distinguished group are two highly flexible bracelets by Van Cleef & Arpels: a Mystery-Set Ruby And Diamond Bracelet (estimate $125/175,000) and a Mystery-Set Sapphire And Diamond Bracelet (estimate $80/120,000). The bracelets feature a proprietary technique first executed by the design house’s jewelers in 1933 in which the stones are set so that no prongs are visible. The collection also includes an elegant pair of Jadeite and Diamond Earclips by Cartier, London (estimate $100/150,000) dating from circa 1925. 

 

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Lot 457. Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Mystery-Set Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet. Estimate 80,000 — 120,000 USD Lot 458. Platinum, Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate 125,000 — 175,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

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Lot 458. Platinum, Mystery-Set Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate 125,000 — 175,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

The highly flexible strap set with numerous calibré-cut mystery-set rubies, the borders and clasp set with round and baguette diamonds weighing approximately 9.85 carats, length 7¼ inches signed V.C.A., numbered N.Y. 45484.

 

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Lot 457. Platinum, 18 Karat Gold, Mystery-Set Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate 80,000 — 120,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

The highly flexible strap set with numerous calibré-cut mystery-set sapphires, the borders and clasp set with round and baguette diamonds weighing approximately 6.35 carats, length 6 5/8 inches, signed V.C.A. NY., indistinctly numbered 258.87. 

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Lot 454. Pair of Platinum, Jadeite and Diamond Earclips, Cartier, London, circa 1925Estimate 100,000 — 150,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

Supporting two jadeite plaques carved with foliate motifs, measuring approximately 44.6 by 14.3 by 4.2 mm and 43.8 by 14.2 by 4.0 mm, with tops set with baguette, square and old European-cut diamonds weighing approximately 3.00 carats, signed Cartier London; circa 1925.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2171818241 stating that the jadeite jade is of Natural Color, with no indications of impregnation.

PROPERTY FROM THE COLLECTION OF JOAN OESTREICH KEND 
The sale will feature jewels from the collection of Joan Oestreich Kend, a graduate from Columbia University’s School of General Studies and one of the first female stockbrokers on Wall Street. Growing up in Great Neck, Mrs. Kend was surrounded by her parents’ collection of and appreciation for beautiful objects. Later, her life in New York City was centered on her Fifth Avenue apartment, where the majority of the Oestreich Kend collection was displayed. A dedicated release is available. 

Mrs. Kend’s jewelry collection offers a broad selection of quintessential 1970s gold jewelry by the legendary maker Bulgari, and is completed by an exquisite diamond ring. A highlight of the collection is a 15.11-Carat Emerald-Cut Diamond Ring (estimate $425/525,000) and a classic set of ‘Parentesi’ Necklace and Earclips by Bulgari (estimate $18/22,000), worn on numerous occasions by Mrs. Kend.  

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Lot 294. A Platinum and 15.11-Carat Emerald-Cut Diamond RingEstimate 100,000 — 150,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

Centering an emerald-cut diamond weighing 15.11 carats, flanked by triangle-shaped diamonds weighing approximately 1.30 carats, size 4¼. 

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2173861781 stating that the diamond is H color, VVS2 clarity.

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Lot 293. 18 Karat Gold and Diamond 'Parentesi' Necklace and Earclips, Bulgari. Estimate 18,000 — 22,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's.

The necklace and earclips composed of gold links set at intervals with round diamonds weighing a total of approximately 9.85 carats, total gross weight approximately 133 dwts, necklace length 17 inches, all pieces signed Bulgari.

EXCEPTIONAL DIAMONDS AND GEMSTONES 

 

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Lot 324. Highly Important Pair of Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Earrings. With two cushion-cut Kashmir sapphires weighing 7.75 and 6.27 caratsEstimate 1,500,000 — 2,000,000 USD. Photo Sotheby's.

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Lot 332. Fine Platinum and Diamond Ring. Set with a pear-shaped diamond weighing 18.10 carats D color, VS1 clarity. Estimate 1,200,000 — 1,600,000 USDPhoto Sotheby's. 

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Lot 338.  Important Platinum, Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Cartier. Centering a Kashmir sugarloaf cabochon sapphire weighing 10.40 caratsEstimate $500,000–700,000Photo Sotheby's.

FINE JEWELS 
Alongside our Magnificent Jewels sale, Sotheby’s will hold its second Fine Jewels auction of the year. Whether gifting for yourself or a loved one, the sale has fashionable baubles for every style and occasion. The sale is centered upon decorative jewels from a variety of makers including Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier and Bulgari. More jewels from The Collection of Marjorie S. Fisher, Palm Beach and The Lichtblau Collection will be included throughout the two sessions alongside signed and vintage pieces from other private collections. Sale highlights include a Spinel and Diamond Necklace by Suzanne Belperron (estimate $60/80,000) and a Platinum and Diamond 'Lace' Necklace by Tiffany & Co. (estimate $30/40,000).

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Lot 325. White Gold, Platinum, Spinel and Diamond Necklace, BelperronEstimate $500,000–700,000Photo Sotheby's.

Of bib design, set with cabochon spinels, accented by round diamonds, internal circumference 15½ inchessigned Belperron. With Verdura envelope.

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Lot 678. Platinum and Diamond 'Lace' Necklace, Tiffany & Co. Estimate $30,000 — 40,000Photo Sotheby's.

Of floral design, set with round diamonds, length 15½ inches, signed Tiffany & Co.