Formely in the collection of the late Countess Mona Bismarck. Very Fine emerald and diamond ring, circa 1910
The step-cut emerald weighing approximately 9.50 carats set within a double frame of circular-cut diamonds, highlighted by similarly-set shoulders, to a pierced scroll gallery, size 52.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 0608027, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement.
Literature: Cf: Famous Jewelry Collectors, Stefano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes, Thames & Hudson, London, 1999, page 140 for an illustration of this ring.
Note: This ring was included as lot 14 in the catalogue of The Magnificent Jewels of the late Countess Mona Bismarck, sold in Geneva on 13th May 1986.
Born Mona Travis Strader in Louiseville, Kentucky, in 1897, her third marriage in 1926 to the extremely wealthy industrialist Harrison Williams, placed her at the fore of American and European society. As a couple they were feted and much admired, they lived a highly glamourous and charmed lifestyle. They owned palatial residences, located both in the USA and Europe, which included their breathtaking villa on the island of Capri. She was regarded as one of the most elegant and beautiful women of her times and her jewellery collection certainly reflected her exquisite style and taste and her love for the finest gemstones: indeed this emerald was the finest in her collection.
As Diana Vreeland (1903-1989), chief editor of American Vogue, stated in her introduction to that May 1986 Sotheby's catalogue :
" Mona Bismarck was an extraordinary beauty who all her life surrounded herself with gaiety, vitality and mirth. She lived among objects of perfection in her superb house. But perhaps her most lovely surroundings were her endless mediterranean gardens. I remember them as acres of bewilderment, riots of colour which in the evening would produce that intense smell of night-blooming jasmin or the warm scent of roses left behind by the sunshine
Mona Bismarck loved her gardens, and she adored her outdoor life, especially tennis and swimming. Sometimes she would disappear into the sea for hours; swimming, floating, totally absorbed in the glory of the sky, the sun... Her eyes amazing in their size and shape and of an extreme blue which when falling on you would absorb you into her wonderful vivacity and beauty
In a rather miraculous way, everything that was hers was out of the ordinary. By day, I never saw her without her enormous pearls gleaming on her immaculate skin. By night her superb jewels, sometimes a magnificent diamond necklace, sometimes a chain of emeralds or her parure of rubies, would be a backdrop to her unforgettable elegance.
She lived a life which would be difficult for anyone to repeat today, but her ageless jewels survive to adorn other beauties in other settings".