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Alain.R.Truong
20 janvier 2017

S.J. PHILLIPS LTD World famous antique dealer in historic jewels and fine silver exhibits at TEFAF Maastricht March 2017

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A superlative 1930’s Burmese ruby and diamond cluster panel necklace by Cartier, New York. An exceptional example of the outstanding craftsmanship for which Cartier, in the first half of the 20th century, was so renowned it has an asking price of £4,200,000. Courtesy S.J. Phillips Ltd.

The internationally renowned, London based, antiques dealer S.J. Phillips is once again exhibiting at TEFAF, the prestigious art and antiques fair in Maastricht, from March 10 to 19, 2017 (stand 118). 

S.J. Phillips’ presence at TEFAF Maastricht takes place shortly after the company’s move from its landmark premises at 139 New Bond Street.

Solomon Joel Phillips opened his first shop on Regent Street in 1869, before moving to New Bond Street four years later. From the outset S.J. Phillips has enjoyed the reputation of dealing exclusively in objects of superlative quality and beauty, many often with royal or distinguished provenance.

The company, which has remained within the same family is managed today by S.J. Phillips’ great-grandsons, brothers Nicolas and Jonathan Norton, together with their cousin Francis Norton. The present building at 139 New Bond Street was leased in 1966 and S.J. Phillips has been based there up until now. The head lease was purchased in October 1987 and the freehold was acquired on December 17, 2009.

Nicolas Norton, explains: “Our building on one of London’s most prestigious streets was becoming ever more valuable, and therefore, as a family we decided that now was an appropriate moment to move premises. In the new location we will focus more on jewellery and precious objects and less on silver. This will be reflected on our stand at TEFAF Maastricht this year where there will be slightly more emphasis on jewellery than silver.”

Among the dazzling array of exceptional jewels, which range in date from the 17th century through to the 20th century, is a superlative 1930’s Burmese ruby and diamond cluster panel necklace by Cartier, New York. The necklace features five dominant, graduated and articulated oblong panels, set with a luscious profusion of rubies and diamonds, all lavishly interspersed with connecting links of yet more rubies and diamonds. The design curves perfectly with the lie of the necklace, whilst the great variety of different cuts of stone used from brilliant, round, square, baguette, kite and trapezium, as well as sugar-loaf and cabochon, combine to catch the light and sparkle with such intensity when worn. This is an exceptional example of the outstanding craftsmanship for which Cartier, in the first half of the 20th century, was so renowned (asking price: £4,200,000).

Also made in New York, in around 1927, is a bracelet made by American jeweller Raymond Yard and inspired by Cartier’s iconic tutti-frutti bracelet, the first of which was unveiled by Cartier at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris and instantly caused a stir. Not surprisingly other jewellers were quick to offer their own interpretations. Raymond Yard’s bracelet has two principal round cabochon emerald and diamond clusters interspersed with tutti-frutti leaf carved gems and white and yellow coloured diamonds. This classic Art-Deco design, which was hugely popular in the 1920s and into the 30s, is even more desirable today (asking price: £800,000).

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tutti-frutti bracelet by American jeweller Raymond Yard made in around 1927. This classic Art-Deco design, which was hugely popular in the 1920s and into the 30s, is even more desirable today (asking price: £800,000). Courtesy S.J. Phillips Ltd.

Another ethereal jewel is an exquisite early 20th century plique à jour enamel and diamond butterfly brooch by Boucheron. The butterfly has long been a favourite motif of the jeweler and the Paris firm of Boucheron excelled in creating some of the most exotic and imaginative butterfly brooches. The design for this particularly delicate butterfly exists in the archives of Boucheron and dates the piece to 1907. The markings of the butterfly’s wings are picked out in delicate pastel tones in shades of blue and pink and defined by lines of grain-set diamonds. The combination of the striking iridescent enamel and the wings being mounted en tremblant all heighten the effect of shimmering movement. A one-off commission, this butterfly brooch is clearly the work of one of Maison Boucheron’s most highly skilled master enamellers (asking price: £190,000).

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An exquisite early 20th century plique à jour enamel and diamond butterfly brooch by Boucheron. A one-off commission, this butterfly brooch is clearly the work of one of Maison Boucheron’s most highly skilled master enamellers (asking price: £190,000)Courtesy S.J. Phillips Ltd.

Among the many highly refined examples of antique jewellery is an impressive, mid-17th century diamond, emerald, pearl and enamel Portuguese order. This distinctive jewel of open work design is set throughout with table and rose cut diamonds and with similarly cut emeralds. The crown panel has a central pear shaped emerald and diamond cross surmount, while the bottom is hung with a baroque drop pearl. As with so many of the jewels of this period the reverse is as beautifully worked as the front and is enamelled with various flowers in foliage in pink and black on white (asking price £250,000). 

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An impressive, mid-17th century diamond, emerald, pearl and enamel Portuguese order. As many of the jewels of this period the reverse is as beautifully worked as the front and is enamelled with various flowers in foliage in pink and black on white (asking price £250,000). Courtesy S.J. Phillips Ltd.

Objets de vertu always play an important role on S.J. Phillips’ stand and taking pride of place is a breathtaking gold, hardstone, enamel and diamond set clock modelled as a Bonsai tree and vase by Verger Frères. The miniature bonsai tree is fantastically executed in 18 carat gold. It has nephrite leaves and lapis lazuli berries and perched on its main branch is a beautiful bird carved in orange and white hardstone. Dating from the late 1920s the movement of the clock is by Vacheron & Constantin, considered one of the finest horologists of the time. It has 15 Jewels and 5 adjustments, an 8 day power reserve and is numbered 404148. Protected by a glass case surmounted with four gold corners set with fine cabochon sapphires in each of the three angles, this splendid clock has an asking price of £600,000. 

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A breathtaking gold, hardstone, enamel and diamond set clock modelled as a Bonsai tree and vase by Verger Frères. Dating from the late 1920s the movement of the clock is by Vacheron & Constantin, considered one of the finest horologists of the time (asking price of £600,000). Courtesy S.J. Phillips Ltd.

Although jewellery and precious objects take centre stage there are also significant examples of historic silver masterpieces, notably two pairs of incredibly rare Spanish silver candlesticks, dating from circa 1660. Of striking shape with circular knopped stems, the principal knop has four pomegranate motifs, these candlesticks, are remarkable survivors of Spanish 17th century silver (asking price: £70,000 per pair).

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Two pairs of incredibly rare Spanish silver candlesticks, dating from circa 1660 (asking price: £70,000 per pair).  Courtesy S.J. Phillips Ltd.

Similar in date but made in England is an historic Charles II silver gilt ewer, the body engraved with the arms of Sir James Mercer of Aldie (d.1671) who was appointed Gentleman Usher to Charles II in January 1661. Sir James’s only son Charles was christened in June 1667 in the presence of his Godfather, the King. The ewer has remained in the same family since this date (asking price: £130,000).

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An historic Charles II silver gilt ewer, the body engraved with the arms of Sir James Mercer of Aldie (d.1671) who was appointed Gentleman Usher to Charles II in January 1661 (asking price: £130,000). Courtesy S.J. Phillips Ltd.

Nicolas Norton said: “Tefaf Maastricht continues to be an important Fair for us as it provides us with a means of meeting new customers, who perhaps have never considered buying antique jewellery before. On this occasion it will also be a useful way of informing our customers of our move. 

S.J. Phillips prides itself on not only offering the very best of the best but we also provide a very special, discreet personal service. We like to think our new premises, on the second floor of 26 Bruton Street, will afford our clients increased exclusivity, together with additional privacy and confidentiality, which many will appreciate. 

In addition, S.J. Phillips will continue to be ‘the’ place to go for those wishing to purchase unique jewels and precious objects. We are looking forward very much to celebrating our 150th anniversary in 2019”. 

S.J. Phillips Ltd. 2nd Floor, 26 Bruton Street (above antique furniture dealer Ronald Phillips – no relation.), London WIJ 6QL - Tel: T +44 20 76 29 6261 - F +44 20 74 95 6180 - E enquiries@sjphillips.com www.sjphillips.com - Instagram @s_j_phillips. Monday to Friday – 9.30am to 5.00pm

TEFAF Maastricht, March 10-19, 2017 www.tefaf.com

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