Lot 194. A gem-set and enamelled gold necklace, North India, 19th century. Estimate 30,000 — 40,000 GBP. Lot sold 40,000 GBP. Photo: Sotheby's.

comprising facet-cut white sapphires set in gold with foil backing, on flexible openwork chain surrounded by seed-pearl borders, hanging flowerhead-shaped pendant with spinel drop, enamelled on the reverse in red, green and white with floral details on each setting, rows of pearl-strings leading to square clasp - 32.5cm. max. unclasped - 20.5cm width.

Note: Commissioned by a wealthy patron, this finely executed necklace is set with white sapphires, cut and foil-backed so as to bring out their maximum brilliance, as was the custom in nineteenth-century India. It is entirely covered with fine polychrome enamel on the reverse, interspersed with miniature seed pearls and a hanging spinel.

A further diamond-set and enamelled necklace of comparable form and technique was sold in these rooms, 8 October 2014, lot 303.

An important diamond-set and enamelled gold parade necklace (Khanti), North India, circa 1850-75. Sold  236,500 GBP at Sotheby's London, 8 October 2014, lot 303. Photo Sotheby’s

(Cf. An important diamond-set and enamelled gold parade necklace (Khanti), North India, circa 1850-75)

Sotheby's. Arts of the Islamic World, London, 26 Apr 2017, 10:30 AM