Fancy vivid colored diamonds, Art deco classics and rare jewelry from Cartier, Verdura and René Boivin headline Bonhams New York
Photo: Bonhams.
NEW YORK - Fancy vivid colored diamonds, an impressive selection of jewelry from Cartier, Verdura and René Boivin, along with highly collectable pieces from the Art Deco and 1960s and 1970s eras headline Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry sale next month (24 April 2017).
Leading the sale is An Important Fancy Colored Diamond and Diamond Ring estimated at US$400,000-600,000. The ring centers on an old European brilliant-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond, weighing 6.32 carats, which is set between two old mine brilliant-cut diamonds. It is accompanied by GIA report stating the diamond as a Natural Fancy Vivid Yellow colour, VVS1 clarity.
Lot 124. An important fancy colored diamond and diamond ring centering an old European brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond, weighing 6.32 carats, set between two old mine brilliant-cut diamonds, weighing 2.08 and 2.07 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; size 5 3/4. Estimate US$ 400,000 - 600,000 (€380,000 - 560,000). Photo: Bonhams.
Accompanied by GIA report # 2135586041, dated February 6, 2012, stating the 6.32 carats diamond as: Fancy Vivid Yellow color, VVS1 clarity.
Accompanied by GIA report # 2135917869 dated October 20, 2011, stating the 2.08 carats diamond as: F color, VS2 clarity.
Accompanied by GIA report # 5131914182, dated October 4, 2011, stating the 2.07 carats diamond as: F color, VS1 clarity.
Vivid yellow diamonds are distinguished by their very deep, warm and lively jonquil yellow color. It is estimated that less than 1/10 of 1% of diamonds mined are a vivid yellow with no white traces and an even yellow color throughout. A rare few possess an astounding vivid yellow color which is almost incomparable.
Susan Abeles, Vice President Director of US Jewelry at Bonhams, says: 'Vivid yellow diamonds are distinguished by their very deep, warm and lively Jonquil yellow color. It is estimated that less than 0.1 per cent of diamonds mined are a vivid yellow color with no white traces and an even yellow color throughout. A rare few possess an astounding vivid yellow colour, which is almost incomparable.
Originating in a turn of the century Tiffany & Co. six-prong solitaire ring, this Old European Cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond is a rare example of 19th century cutting technology. This old fashioned cutting style, rarely found in today's market, epitomizes old world charm, brilliance and, above all, depth of color.'
Staying with colored diamonds, Bonhams will also be offering a magnificent Fancy Colored Diamond and Diamond Necklace by William Goldberg estimated at US$350,000-550,000. This quintessential modern necklace is set with cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut Fancy Yellow diamonds, weighing a total of 47.34 carats. Each one of the 17 Fancy Yellow diamonds is set within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround and enhanced by baguette and round brilliant-cut diamond panel. The central Fancy Yellow diamond, weighing 5.02 carats, has been classified as Internally Flawless.
Lot 65. A fancy colored diamond and diamond necklace, William Goldberg. Estimate US$ 350,000 - 550,000 (€330,000 - 520,000). Photo: Bonhams.
set with cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy yellow diamonds, weighing a total of 47.34 carats, within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround, enhanced by baguette and round brilliant-cut diamond panels; signed William Goldberg, no.1354, with maker's mark; accompanied by a signed pouch and box; remaining diamond weight: 15.10 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; length: 16in.
Gracing the front cover of Bonhams New York's Fine Jewelry catalog this April is an eternal classic, A Diamond Rivière Necklace estimated at US$200,000-300,000. The single strand of 63 graduating round brilliant-cut diamonds, with the largest diamond approximately 3.05 carats, weighs a total of 44 carats and is mounted in platinum.
Lot 133. A diamond riviére necklace composed of sixty-three graduating round brilliant-cut diamonds, the largest weighing 3.05 carats; estimated total diamond weight: 44.00 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 18in. Estimate US$ 200,000 - 300,000 (€190,000 - 280,000). Photo: Bonhams.
Accompanied by GIA report # 1182155152, dated February 8, 2017, stating the 2.46 carats diamond as: E color, VVS2 clarity.
Accompanied by GIA report # 1186155219, dated February 8, 2017, stating the 2.42 carats diamond as: D color, VVS2 clarity.
Accompanied by GIA report # 2181155150, dated February 8, 2017, stating the 2.07 carats diamond as: E color, VVS2 clarity.
Accompanied by GIA report # 2185155207, dated February 8, 2017, stating the 1.96 carats diamond as: E color, VVS2 clarity.
The first notable lot is A Fine Ruby and Diamond Clip Brooch by Cartier, circa 1935. Extremely rare, the Cartier clip reflects the evolution of style from Art Deco to Art Moderne. Gone are the strong, flat, colorful, geometric lines as these were replaced by the more sculptural aesthetic found in jewelry of the mid-1930s.
Lot 132. A fine ruby and diamond clip brooch, Cartier, circa 1935. Estimate US$ 300,000 - 400,000 (€280,000 - 380,000). Photo: Bonhams.
The brooch is geometrically designed and centers on a beautiful marquise mixed-cut ruby, weighing 3.54 carats. The central ruby has a pavé-set frame of baguette and round brilliant-cut diamonds, further enhanced by round cabochon and sugarloaf rubies and accented with square step-cut diamond.
Estimated at US$300,000-400,000, the central ruby is accompanied by an AGL report stating that it is Classic Burmese and has no indication of heat or clarity enhancement.
This diamond and ruby brooch reflects the evolution of style; from art deco to art moderne. Gone are the strong, flat, colorful, geometric lines, as these were replaced by the more sculptural aesthetic found in jewelry of the mid-1930s.
From 1915-1930, the Russian, Egyptian, Indian, Persian and Oriental inspirations, which had dominated jewelry, began to wane and were substituted by a diamond and single colored gemstone palette which found favor by 1935.
These all-diamond or bicolored jeweled creations were expressed with a variety of classic and fancy cut stones – round brilliant-cut, step-cut, baguette or baton cut, hexagonal, buff top, and cabochons - were utilized instead of black onyx, coral, mother-of-pearl, jade, turquoise, enamel, faience and artifacts, which had been used previously. Also gone were the flatness of the jewels; layered gemstones, brought a fresh three dimensionality to these more modern designs - jewels became more engaging with attention to negative and positive space.
From the mid-1930s Cartier created and sold predominantly sculptural, mono-chromatic and diamond jewelry. While gemstone preferences of sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, topaz and turquoise can be found, very few ruby examples exist.
Cartier used gemstones of exceptional quality to create a strong dynamic for these new designs. The focal point of this ruby and diamond clip is this rare, unheated Classic Burma ruby. The seldom used marquise-cut ruby draws your eye to the center of the brooch because of its beautiful rich red color, hue and shape. Framed by negative space and outlined with pave-set and fancy-cut diamonds and sumptuous buff top rubies at the edge, this clip provides an elaborate, yet simple, showcase for an exquisite gemstone.
Susan Abeles of Bonhams Jewelry adds: 'From the mid-1930s Cartier created and sold predominantly sculptural, mono-chromatic and diamond jewelry. While gemstone preferences of sapphire, emerald, aquamarine, topaz and turquoise can be found, very few ruby examples exist.
This particular clip brooch provides an elaborate, yet simple, showcase for an exquisite gemstone. The brooch is a real collector's item given the Cartier name, the era and the composition. Any connoisseur would want to have this rare jewel as their own.'
Jewelry by Van Cleef & Arpels is also set to catch the eyes of buyers with Bonhams offering a number of striking lots.
These include:
A pair of Diamond Day/Night Earrings dated 1982. Making a real statement, the earrings feature a total diamond weight of 29.25 carats and have a pre-sale estimate of US$60,000 - 80,000.
Lot 129. A pair of diamond day/night earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1982. Estimate US$ 60,000 - 80,000 (€56,000 - 75,000). Photo: Bonhams.
surmounted by a cluster of diamonds, set throughout with marquise, pear and round brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending radiating sprays set with similarly cut diamonds; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, NY, no.52611, with maker's mark; accompanied by a signed box; estimated total diamond weight: 29.25 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k white gold; length: 2 3/4in.
Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Van Cleef & Arpels, dated December 7, 2016.
A pair of Diamond Ear Clips dated 1978. Reminiscent of the glamorous 1970s era, these stylish cluster design earrings are set throughout with marquise-shaped diamonds. Featuring approximately 17.80 carats of diamonds, they have a pre-sale estimate of US$50,000 - 70,000.
Lot 127. A pair of diamond ear clips, Van Cleef & Arpels, 1978. Estimate US$ 50,000 - 70,000 (€47,000 - 66,000). Photo: Bonhams.
of cluster design, set throughout with marquise-shaped diamonds; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, N.Y., no.49006, with maker's mark; accompanied by a signed box; estimated total diamond weight: 17.80 carats; mounted in platinum and white gold; length 1 1/2in.
Accompanied by a certificate of authenticity from Van Cleef & Arpels, dated December 7, 2016.
René Boivin jewelry always attracts global interest given the French jeweler is considered to have produced some of the most original jewels of the 20th century. Well known for the impeccable craftsmanship of their pieces, the firm set itself apart by their masterly use of colored stones and by their thoroughly modern and sculptural designs.
In this forthcoming sale, Bonhams will be offering An Aquamarine and Diamond "Feuille De Platane" Brooch by René Boivin. Dated circa 1950, the brooch features a heart-shaped aquamarine, weighing approximately 21.90 carats, which is enhanced by textured gold leaves and adorned with old European-cut diamonds. It is estimated at US$20,000 - 25,000.
Lot 27. A gem-set and 14k gold leaf brooch, Verdura, circa 1940. Estimate US$ 20,000 - 25,000 (€19,000 - 23,000). Photo: Bonhams.
World renowned for its timeless, elegant and distinctly original designs, Verdura pieces from the 1940s continue to achieve strong pieces at auction given their rarity. In this sale, Bonhams will be offering A Citrine and 14k Rose Gold Brooch by Verdura, dated 1941. It is estimated at US$5,000 - 7,000.
Lot 26. A citrine and 14k rose gold brooch, Verdura, 1941. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€4,700 - 6,600). Photo: Bonhams.
of stylized radiating star design, centering a round brilliant-cut citrine, weighing approximately 8.35 carats; gross weight approximately: 23.50 grams; length: 2 3/8in.
Another anticipated collectors' highlight in the sale is An Art Deco Diamond Bracelet by Linzeler Marchak. Alexander Marchak's collaboration with Robert Linzeler only lasted a few years so it is very rare to find examples of their work today. The name Linzeler Marchak is linked with some of the greatest jewels of the Art Deco style and this geometric paneled diamond bracelet being offered for sale is typical of their distinctive design. Dated circa 1925, the bracelet features old European-cut and step-cut diamonds and is estimated at US$6,000 - 8,000.
Lot 11. An Art Deco diamond bracelet, Linzeler Marchak, French, circa 1925. Estimate US$ 6,000 - 8,000 (€5,600 - 7,500). Photo: Bonhams.
Classic diamonds to shine at the sale
No sale would be complete without colorless diamonds. Simple, classic and always elegant, they make the perfect addition to any jewelry collection and never go out of style. Highlighted lots include:
A Diamond Solitaire Ring by Harry Winston. The rectangular-shaped step-cut diamond, weighing 5.33 carats, F color, VVS2 clarity is estimated at US$130,000 - 180,000.
Lot 131. A diamond solitaire ring, Harry Winston centering a rectangular-shaped step-cut diamond, weighing 5.33 carats, flanked by tapered baguette-cut diamonds; signed HW, engraved 5.33; accompanied by a signed box; mounted in platinum; size 5. Estimate US$ 130,000 - 180,000 (€120,000 - 170,000). Photo: Bonhams.
A Fine Diamond Bracelet. The highly articulated bracelet is centrally set with three curved lines of baguette-cut diamonds, to a tapering pear, marquise, and round brilliant-cut diamond surround (approximate total diamond weight 48.00 carats) and is estimated at US$35,000 - 55,000.
Lot 130. A fine diamond bracelet. Estimate US$ 35,000 - 55,000 (€33,000 - 52,000). Photo: Bonhams.
Original Blue Book Tiffany Lily Of The Valley brooch comes to auction
Perfectly timed for spring is A Diamond and Enamel 'Lily Of The Valley' Brooch designed by Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co. Dated 1969, this Lily of the Valley brooch is the original prototype for the 1969 Tiffany & Company Blue book brooch. The inspiration for this brooch comes from the French custom of giving Lily of the Valleys on the first of May to celebrate spring and as a porte-bonheur or good luck charm. Estimated at US$5,000 - 7,000, the brooch is composed of eleven en tremblant lilies, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a gold stem with green enamel leaves.
Lot 72. A diamond and enamel "Lily of the Valley" brooch, Donald Claflin for Tiffany & Co., circa 1969. Estimate US$ 5,000 - 7,000 (€4,700 - 6,600). Photo: Bonhams.
composed of eleven en tremblant lilies, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, to a gold stem with green enamel leaves; unsigned; estimated total diamond weight: 5.00 carats; mounted in 18k gold; length: 2 7/8in.
The 1969 Tiffany & Company Blue Book featured a "Lily of the Valley" Brooch, designed by Donald Claflin. Designer Donald Claflin is most often recognized for his whimsical creations, often featuring fictitious characters typically defined by bold, colorful, unconventional gemstones and enamel; undoubtedly he had a sense of humor. As a skilled designer, Claflin also created landmark traditional jewelry, catering to the needs of Tiffany & Company's more conservative clients during his tenure there, from 1965 to 1977.
This "Lily of the Valley" brooch is the original prototype; it was produced in two styles: one set with enamel and diamonds, illustrated here, a naturalist version with diamond en tremblant flower heads, and another pave-set with diamonds which appeared in the 1969 Blue Book, both the same form and frame. Over the years, Tiffany & Company has featured both versions; in 1994 the enamel and diamond version of this brooch was advertised in the New York Times beckoning the beginning of spring.
Master jeweler Andre Chervin, owner of Carvin French, and Claflin became close personal friends. Andre Chervin, a formally trained Parisian jeweler, immigrated to the United States in 1951. He was immediately recognized for his superior craftsmanship, using the finest quality materials, as well as for being an adroit enamellist. His work was so extraordinary that he was sought after and produced work for famous American jewelry houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Cartier, Bulgari, Yard, and Verdura.
Andre Chervin and Donald Claflin shared the same passion, interest and understanding of gems and jewelry. Ideas were discussed in the workshop and at the dining table. Sharing the same vernacular and vision made this working relationship ideal, unique and special. Jewels were produced seamlessly from concept to sketch to creation; all were fluid, luxurious, and finely executed – a rare collaborative example.
The inspiration for this brooch comes from the French custom of giving lily of the valleys on the first of May to celebrate spring. In 1941, May Day became an official French holiday. Gifting these delicate white fragrant bell-shaped flowers will porte-bonheur or bring good luck. The tradition of giving lily's of the valley is embraced throughout France and is seen as the return to happiness. As the flower of May, the lily of the valley also represents purity, humility and sweetness and is often incorporated in wedding and birth arrangements. This brooch represents and reflects a seldom seen simpatico that designer Donald Claflin and master jeweler Andre Chervin shared.
Antique jewelry showcases impeccable craftsmanship in the 1800s
The oldest piece of jewelry being offered in the sale is An Antique pair of Emerald and Gold Earrings dating back to circa 1800, estimated at US$3,000-5,000. Also from the same century is a wonderful example of An Antique Diamond and Natural Pearl Necklace. Dated circa 1885, the necklace is designed as graduated openwork sections of old mine-cut diamonds in a floral motif, enhanced by rose-cut diamonds. It has a pre-sale estimate of US$25,000 - 35,000.
Lot 7. An Antique pair of emerald and 14k gold earrings, Georgian, circa 1800. Estimate US$ 3,000 - 5,000 (€2,800 - 4,700). Photo: Bonhams.
of pendeloque form, composed of three articulated sections, enhanced by baguette and square-cut emeralds, centering a lazo bow surmount, with an elongated drop; gross weight approximately: 10.10 grams; length: 1 4/8in. (three emeralds deficient).
Lot 2. An antique diamond and natural pearl necklace, circa 1885. Estimate US$ 25,000 - 35,000 (€23,000 - 33,000). Photo: Bonhams.
designed as graduated openwork sections of old mine-cut diamonds in a floral motif, enhanced by rose-cut diamonds, suspending a natural semi-baroque pearl; estimated total diamond weight: 30.00 carats; mounted in silver and silver topped 14k gold; length: 17in.
Accompanied by GIA report # 2185082730, dated January 17, 2017, stating the pearl as: natural pearl, saltwater, no indications of treatment.
The sale, which takes place at Bonhams New York at 3:00pm EST on 24 April 2017, features a total of 133 lots.
Susan Abeles, Vice President Director of the US Jewelry at Bonhams, says: 'We have a really wonderful first fine jewelry sale of the year which we hope will appeal to a cross section of clients - whether they are interested in colored diamonds, extremely rare signed jewelry, antique jewelry or classic white diamonds.'
Bonhams New York Fine Jewelry sale preview dates are as follows:
Bonhams Geneva (highlights) by appointment only: April 3 & 4: 10am to 5pm
Rue Etienne-Dumont, 10, 1204 Geneva
Bonhams Hong Kong (highlights) by appointment only: April 7 & 10: 10am to 7pm
Suite 2001, One Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty
Bonhams New York: April 20 & 21: 10am to 5pm, April 22 & 23: 12pm to 5pm
580 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10022