Lot 216. 18 Karat Gold, Enamel, Peridot and Pearl Pendant-Necklace, René Lalique, circa 1905. Estimate 20,000 — 30,000 USD. Photo: Sotheby's. 

The baton-shaped links applied with light green enamel, with three small pearls, supporting a pendant designed as opposing dragonflies highlighted with blue and green enamel, centering an oval-shaped peridot and suspending a baroque pearl measuring approximately 15.9 by 10.0 mm, length 15½ inches, signed Lalique; accompanied by a hat pin attachment, the pendant and pearl detaches for variety of wear; circa 1905.

Notelease note the pearls have not been tested for natural origin.

For additional pendants and hat pins, see René Lalique: Exceptional Jewelry 1890-1912 edited by Yvonne Brunhammer, pages 249-250.

Leader of the Art Nouveau movement and instigator of an entirely new approach to jewellery, René Lalique (1860-1945) started as an apprentice in 1876 at Louis Aucoc, a renowned Parisian silversmith and jeweler. He worked as a designer for different jewelry houses and moved in 1890 to 20 rue Thérèse where he began his experiments with glass. By the 1890s, Lalique was using more motifs from nature, concentrating on unusual aspects of plants and flowers. He frequently depicted insects, whom he described as “other lovers of plants,” in his jewelry, hearkening back to his childhood walks. Indeed, two of his favorite subjects were beetles and dragonflies. Though the use of insects in jewels may have unsettled viewers in the early 20th century, Lalique managed to transform them into objects of beauty that have been admired for over 100 years.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels Including the Legendary Stotesbury Emerald, New York, 25 Apr 2017, 10:00 AM