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The Secret Pink - A Spectacular Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink Diamond, Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring. Estimate: HKD 45,000,000 - 55,000,000. Image courtesy Phillips.

HONG KONG.- Phillips unveiled two star lots from the upcoming Jewels and Jadeite auction, taking place on 29 May at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. The leading lot is The Secret Pink, a Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink, Fancy Vivid Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring (estimate: HKD45,000,000 – 55,000,000), comprising two extremely rare vivid pink diamonds in a remarkable and unique design. Followed by our cover lot of this season, a Diamond and Emerald Ring, Monture Cartier, circa 1950 (estimate: HKD3,600,000 – 4,500,000). 

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The Secret Pink, featuring to the top is a 4.23-carat internally flawless, antique Golconda-type Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond, sheltered another 1.39-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond from the Argyle Mine underneath, an ingenious design showcasing a juxtaposition of old and new. The 4.23-carat Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond purportedly comes from the renowned Golconda region in India, where the world’s most important and notable diamonds were discovered before 20th century. Devoid of nitrogen the intensity of pink colour on this diamond is amazingly potent and distinct, even when viewed from the side. Being both an internally flawless and a Type IIa diamond, it bears all the hallmarks of an ancient Golconda gem. Apart from one extremely rare pink diamond, The Secret Pink offers collectors another sensational wonder, a 1.39-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond from Argyle Mine in Australia. It is estimated that pink diamonds make up less than 0.05 percent of current annual global diamond production. Whilst the yield of gem-quality pink diamonds from Argyle, the prominent source of pink diamonds, is infinitesimally small, even rarer, the majority of this production weighs no more than 0.20 carat size. As such, the present 1.39-carat vivid pink diamond is a natural rarity and undoubtedly from the top tier of the mine’s production. 

The Secret Pink is highly collectible among all diamond connoisseurs. It is a homage to the allure of natural pink diamonds, mounted with two stones mined from prestigious and historic sources, and both bestowed with the best colour possible in a natural pink diamond.  

A further highlight is the Retro Diamond and Emerald Ring, Monture Cartier (estimate: HKD3,600,000 - 4,500,000,), a rare example of the fine design and craftsmanship from the house of Cartier. The commissioned work is believed to have been mounted for an important clientele in the 1950s. Of iconic retro style, the ring is massively built high off the finger, set with three important stones including an internally flawless D-colour diamond of 5.31 carats and two matching Colombian, no-oil emeralds of over 4 carats each. Inspired by the Egyptian revival designs, the gallery of this ring resembles the wings of the scarab beetle, with geometries that echo the artistic motifs of the ancient civilisation. The fluted lines of gold of the ring mount further echo this motif. As Phillips continues to champion the market for signed period jewellery, this innovative and unique piece from the 1950s would be a treasured addition to any great collection.

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A Diamond and Emerald Ring, Monture Cartier, Circa 1950. Estimate: HKD 17,000,000 - 20,000,000Image courtesy Phillips.

Terry Chu, Head of Jewellery, Phillips Asia: “Developing in line with evolving tastes and collecting habits, our sale recognises jewellery as standalone objects of art, celebrating impeccable design, the highest level of craftsmanship and the heritage of jewels from across the ages. We are proud to offer important vintage jewellery designs, unique commissioned pieces from the leading branded jewellery makers across different eras, alongside radiant signed contemporary jewels, rare coloured stones, important diamonds and jadeite that will appeal to the international taste of today’s collectors.” 

Rare Diamonds and Precious Gemstones 
Rare diamonds and precious gemstones of the highest calibre continue to be showcased this season at Phillips. Coloured gemstones are led by the Blessed Blossom, a Burmese Pigeon’s Blood Ruby and Diamond Ring (estimate: HKD17,000,000 - 20,000,000). The exceptional ruby is enveloped in a delicate floral design of diamonds, showcasing the hallmark ‘pigeon’s blood’ colour saturation, as certified by two important Swiss gemology laboratories. The oval-shaped 6.02 carat crimson centre stone was mined from the Mogok valley in Myanmar, where important ‘pigeon’s blood’ rubies of the highest quality have been historically derived. Stones of this size and quality rarely appear and are highly sought after in the auction market.

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A Rare and Very Fine 6.02 Carat "Myanmar Valley" natural pigeon blood red Ruby and Diamond Ring. Estimate: HKD 3,600,000 - 4,500,000. Image courtesy Phillips.

Kashmir sapphires of significant weight and quality remain elusive on the market, with the original mines from the region now depleted, the sale presents a Rare 7.03-carat Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Ring, featuring a deep and lustrous blue stone (estimate: HKD 5,500,000 - 6,300,000). Fancy diamonds continue to be enthusiastically sought after in the Asian market, and a prized ‘canary’ yellow diamond will be featured in the sale. The 10.43-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Pink Diamond Ring showcases a brilliant and intensely saturated centre stone of fine proportions mounted on a remarkable pink gold and pink diamond band, bringing together the appetite for coloured diamonds into a singular design (estimate: HKD 4,600,000 - 5,500,000).  

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  A Fine 10.43-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Pink Diamond Ring. Estimate: HKD 4,600,000 - 5,500,000. Image courtesy Phillips.

A Fine Selection from Historic Jewellery Makers: Wearable Works of Art 
Jewellery designed and created by the leading houses of the 20th century will feature in this sale. Collected as rare objects of art, these pieces encapsulate the aesthetic character and history of the period from which they derive. The sale will include a superlative example of Art Deco jewellery; an Emerald and Diamond Pendant by Mauboussin (estimate: HKD1,000,000 - 1,300,000). Mauboussin was one of the most important jewellers of the early 20th century, winning a spectrum of awards at international expositions of the time. At the height of Art Deco, the maison had salons across the United Kingdom, the United States and even Brazil. Art Deco masterpieces from Mauboussin remain highly collectible. This pendant, certified by the Mauboussin Archive to be an authentic creation from the maison in 1929, bears historical significance for it was made by one of the most important masters, during one of the most significant stylistic movements in the history of jewellery making.  

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An Art Deco Colombian Emerald and Diamond Pendant by Mauboussin, circa 1929. Estimate: HKD 1,000,000 - 1,300,000Image courtesy Phillips.

Masterpieces of Modern Design 
Signed contemporary pieces created by today’s prestigious international jewellery makers will also feature in the sale. These works carry the authority of the house and are valued for their aesthetics, as well as the rarity of the stones set in exceptional design. A highlight is a Unique Set of Sapphire and Diamond Jewellery, which was a commission from the house of Cartier in 1999. The original design sketches are included, showcasing the creative journey taken to create the design that honours the excellence of the unheated Sri Lankan sapphires encased (estimates: HKD 1,200,000 - 1,700,000).  

Further examples of stellar design include a Pair of 6.40- and 6.29-carat Colombian Emerald and Diamond Pendent Earrings (estimate: HKD 1,900,000 - 2,400,000). Created by Graff, this pair of vivid green Colombian emeralds has been delicately suspended in a chandelier of variously cut diamonds that provide great movement. A further highlight is a Pair of Sapphire and Diamond Pendent Earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, featuring a set of natural sapphires weighing a combined 66.63 carats, each earring is composed of two impressive stones of strong and lively blue colour (estimate: HKD 4,500,000 - 5,500,000).  

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A Pair of 6.40- and 6.29-carat Colombian Emerald and Diamond Pendent Earrings, Graff. Estimate: HKD 1,900,000 - 2,400,000Image courtesy Phillips.

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 A Pair of Impressive Sapphire and Diamond Earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: HKD 4,500,000 - 5,500,000. Image courtesy Phillips.

Important Jadeite 
Jadeite is a pillar of the jewellery market in Asia, with the Spring auction anchored by fine examples of cabochon jadeite. Among the highlights are a Jadeite Cabochon and Diamond Necklace (estimate: HKD 16,000,000 - 19,000,000), and a set of Jadeite Cabochon and Diamond Ring, and Pair of Matching Earrings (estimate: HKD 8,800,000 – 10,000,000). Jadeite continues to have sociological significance in Chinese civilization. This method of shaping a gemstone into a convex dome was introduced to China from the West in the 18th century and continues to be greatly favoured. Cabochons on the two highlights are of considerable sizes, beguiling translucency, pleasing outlines, and posses an even illuminating green colour, they are remarkable examples of the classical form.

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An Impressive Fine Jadeite Cabochon and Diamond Necklace. Estimate: HKD 16,000,000 - 19,000,000. Image courtesy Phillips.

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A Very Fine Jadeite Cabochon Ring and Pair of Matching Earrings. Estimate: HKD 8,800,000 – 10,000,000Image courtesy Phillips.