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14 juillet 2017

Mastery of an Art: Van Cleef & Arpels - High Jewelry and Japanese Crafts on Display in Kyoto's National Museum of Modern Art

 

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KYOTO -  Van Cleef & Arpels has shipped precious items from its heritage collection to Kyoto to establish a unique bond between high jewellery - an emblematic example of French savoir-faire - and the Millennial history of the traditional crafts in Japan.

Beautifully staged by the acclaimed Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto, the exhibition is divided into three thematic areas designed to celebrate the beauty of handmade works of art emanating from Van Cleef & Arpels’ Parisian’s workshops and works made by Kyoto’s refined craftsmen. Kyoto, once the capital of Japan, was renowned for its elegant society and culture, attracting the country’s finest craftsmen to produce objects of exquisite beauty for their wealthy clientele.

The first section provides an overview of Van Cleef’s history, from the foundation of the Maison in 1906 to the present day, illustrating stylistic trends and exclusive production techniques developed by the Maison. Objects ranging from minaudières - sophisticated bejewelled evening bags bearing Van Cleef’s acclaimed “mystery setting” - to the mesmerising (and fully functional) Zip necklace, the 80 works on display reflect the spirit of this Parisian legend that was a second home to European royalty and countless aristocrats.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Model of the Varuna Yacht, circa 1907. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Pampilles earrings, 1923. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Art, Deco brooch, 1930. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Bird cage, 1935. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Floating ribbon brooch, 1937. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Spanish ballerina clip, 1941. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, Fuchsia clip, 1968. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels

In the second section, visitors will be treated to a compare and contrast session comprised of works by Van Cleef & Arpels and works by Japanese craftsmen. Outstanding handmade items are referred to as pieces of “transcendental workmanship” in Japan and are appreciated and valued as works of fine art. Clothing made with gold brocade, objects made using the lacquer technique known as maki-e and ceramics and cloisonné enamel comprise some of the 50 objects of Japanese crafts on display, placed alongside 100 works of high jewellery by Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Wall hanging with wisteria and peacocks. Artist unknown. Circa 1905. Embroidery. Photo by Kimura Yoichi.

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Bagatelle Minaudière, 1949. Gold, platinum, silver, rubies, lacquer, silk. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels

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Pair of vases with butterflies and flowers of the four seasons by Kin'unken Inaba, Late 19th - early 20th century. Wired cloisonné. Photo by Kimura Yoichi.

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Persimmon by Ando Rokuzan, ivory carving, early 20th century. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Van Cleef & Arpels Dragon clip dating from 1969. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Plate with lotus leaf and frog by Shoami Katsuyoshi, late 19th century. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Vase with carp by Shoami Katsuyoshi, metalwork late 19th century. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

The last section of the exhibition is devoted to works by contemporary Japanese artists alongside Van Cleef high jewellery.  

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Left: Tea caddy "Cosmos" by Hattori Shunsho, 2016. Lacquer on wood, maki-e inlay with wings of jewel beetle. Photo by Ezaki Yoshikazu - Right: Two leaves clip 1967. Platinum, gold, Mystery Set emeralds, diamonds. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Etincelles Minaudière case, 2006. Gold, onyx, diamonds. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Yuzen dyeing kimono "Snow Dance" by Moriguchi Kunihiko 2016. Silk, yuzen dyeing. Photo © The Collection of the National Museum of Modern Art, Kyoto.

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Moriguchi Kunihiko in his atelier. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Serenitatis necklace, 2010. Gold, sapphires, diamonds. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Tsumugi silk kimono "Autumn Mist" by Shimura Fukumu, 1961. Silk, pongee type weaving. Photo by Shikata Kunihiro.

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Two leaves clip: 1967. Platinum, gold, Mystery Set emeralds, diamonds, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection - Incense container paulownia design: Hattori Shunsho, 2014. Lacquer on wood, inlay with wings of Jewell Beetle. Photo Credit: Ezaki Yoshikazu – Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

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Mastery of an Art / Exhibition view at the National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto, Japan 2017. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Mastery of an Art / Exhibition view at the National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto, Japan 2017. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

 

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Mastery of an Art / Exhibition view at the National Museum of Modern Art in Kyoto, Japan 2017. Photo © Van Cleef & Arpels.

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