Lot 196. A Chinese mandarin official's summer hat, Qing dynasty (1644-1911), Guangxu period (1875-1908). Estimate $ 3,000-5,000. Photo Leonard Joel

This fine example in the form of a conical crown of split bamboo cane, covered with a seamless piece of white silk gauze and decorated with tassels of red braided Manchurian silk, surmounted with a gilt copper finial supporting a crystal sphere, with gold brocade edging, with a green plume holder and peacock feather attached 

Provenance: Purchased: Linda Wrigglesworth at Irving Galleries, London, "Echoes from China" Exhibition, in 1991, 4033/20a, Catalogue No. 80; Ex Traphagan School of Fashion, New York, USA. Collected in 1908, Acquisition no. C.8.49.B 

Note: When the Manchus assumed control of China in 1644 to establish the Qing dynasty, they introduced a new system of coloured hat finials to identify the rank of nobles and officials. The crystal sphere, as seen here, is indicative of a fifth rank official. The wearer would have accompanied this hat with either a silver pheasant or a badge of rank 

Reference: For a very similar example, please see: Christie's, New York, 19 March 2008, Lot 114; the summer hat in the Newark Museum, Gift of the Iris Barrel Apfel Collection; the Collection of Ken Rutherford, NSW, as illustrated in Judith Rutherford and Jackie Menzie's, Celestial Silks, Art Gallery of New South Wales, 2004, cat. no. 59 

Leonard Joel. The Decorative Arts Collection of James Fairfax AC, 18:30 AEST, Thursday 31 Aug 2017