An Exquisite 5.69-Carat Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring, Estimate $12/15 million & The Largest Round Diamond Ever Offered at Auction, Estimate $4.2/6.2 million. Courtesy Sotheby's

NEW YORK – Just in time for the holidays, Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels and Fine Jewels auctions will be held in New York on 5 & 7 December 2017. Both sales feature a wonderful variety of vintage and contemporary pieces by renowned houses including Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., JAR, and Harry Winston alongside significant gemstones of superlative quality. The Magnificent Jewels sale is led by an exquisite 5.69-Carat Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring (estimate $12/15 million) and an extremely rare 110.92-Carat Round Diamond - the largest round diamond ever to be offered at auction (estimate $4.2/6.2 million). All works from both sales will be on public exhibition in our York Avenue galleries from 30 November – 7 December, highlighting our inaugural A Life of Luxury auction series. We welcome seasoned and aspiring collectors to visit us, speak with a specialist, and try on the entire selection.




Lot 211. From the Collection of a Lady. Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring Weighing 5.69 carats, VVS1 clarity, Potentially Internally Flawless. Estimate $12/15 millionLot Sold 15,130,800 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Set with an emerald-cut Fancy Vivid Blue diamond weighing 5.69 carats, flanked by baguette diamonds, size 5¼.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 12362052 stating that the diamond is Fancy Vivid Blue, Natural Color, VVS1 clarity. Together with the original working diagram stating that the diamond may be potentially Internally Flawless.



Lot 195. The Largest Round Diamond to Be Offered at Auction. Extremely Rare Diamond Ring Weighing 110.92 carats, L Faint Brown Color, VS1 clarity, Excellent Polish, Cut & Symmetry. Estimate $4.2/6.2 millionCourtesy Sotheby's.

The round diamond weighing 110.92 carats, size 6½; illustrated unmounted.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2173606811 stating that the diamond is L, Faint Brown Color, VS1 clarity, with Excellent Polish, Cut and Symmetry.


Gary Schuler, Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewelry Division, Americas commented: “We’re thrilled to present supreme examples of the world’s most sought-after jewels and gemstones this season, led by the stunning Fancy Vivid Blue Diamond Ring and the 110.92-carat Round Diamond. Greatly admired for their rarity, these are gems that are enthusiastically pursued by collectors and connoisseurs.”


Lot 179. Highly Important Fancy Intense Orangy Pink Diamond and Diamond Ring Weighing 5.24 carats, VS2 clarity. Estimate $1.8/2.2 millionCourtesy Sotheby's.

The cut-cornered rectangular mixed-cut Fancy Intense Orangy Pink diamond weighing 5.24 carats, set between half-moon-shaped diamonds, size 6.

Accompanied by GIA report no. 1186536856 stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Orangy Pink, Natural Color, VS2 clarity.


Lot 161. Important Pair of Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond and Diamond Earrings Weighing 5.99 and 5.45 carats. Estimate $1/1.5 millionCourtesy Sotheby's.

Suspending two oval-shaped Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds weighing 5.99 and 5.45 carats, the tops set with two oval-shaped near colorless diamonds weighing 1.41 and 1.39 carats, further accented by single-cut diamonds.

Accompanied by four GIA reports:

No. 10938638 dated December 13, 1999 stating that the diamond weighing 5.99 carats is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, SI1 clarity.

No. 14586817 dated August 10, 2005 stating that the diamond weighing 5.45 carats is Fancy Vivid Yellow, Natural Color, SI1 clarity.

No. 15788736 dated April 18, 2007 stating that the diamond weighing 1.41 carats is D color, Internally Flawless.

No. 14845381 dated January 30, 2006 stating that the diamond weighing 1.39 carats is D color, Internally Flawless.


Lot 184.  Magnificent Diamond Ring Weighing 14.01 carats, D Color, VVS1 clarity. Estimate $1.5/2.5 millionLot sold 1,695,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

The oval-shaped diamond weighing 14.01 carats, set between triangular-cut diamonds, size 7¾.

Accompanied by GIA report. no 1182746597 stating that the diamond is D color, VVS1 clarity. Together with the original working diagram stating that the diamond may be potentially Internally Flawless. 


For those looking to add impressive colored stones to their collections, the Magnificent Jewels sale offers a variety of vibrant rubies, emeralds and sapphires, including an important group of sapphire jewels by Harry Winston and Van Cleef & Arpels from a Distinguished Family Collection. The bracelet by Van Cleef & Arpels, set with five spectacular sugarloaf cabochon sapphires, is a particular standout, with Art Deco pieces of this caliber being exceedingly rare. Further highlights from this incredible Collection include a rare pair of Burmese sapphire and diamond earclips by Harry Winston weighing 20+ carats each, a dazzling sapphire and diamond necklace-bracelet combination by Harry Winston and a 23.38-carat sugarloaf cabochon sapphire ring by Van Cleef & Arpels.



Lot 210. Property From a Distinguished Family Collection. Elegant Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, circa 1935. Sapphires weighing a total of approximately 193.73 carats. Estimate $1/1.5 millionLot Sold 3,135,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Set with five sugarloaf cabochon sapphires weighing a total of approximately 193.73 carats, joined by articulated segments of geometric design set with square, rectangular, round and old European-cut diamonds, length 7 inches, with French assay marks, workshop marks for Rubel Frères, and maker's marks for Van Cleef & Arpels; circa 1935. 

ProvenanceSotheby's New York, April 25, 2002, Magnificent Jewels from the Estate of Janice H. Levin, lot 76.


Lot 205. Property From a Distinguished Family Collection. Pair of Rare Burmese Sapphire and Diamond Earclips, Harry Winston Set with two modified pear-shaped sapphires weighing approximately 23.02 and 20.83 carats. Estimate $650/850,000Lot Sold 1,095,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Set with two modified pear-shaped sapphires weighing approximately 23.02 and 20.83 carats, framed by round and baguette diamonds, signed Harry Winston, with maker's marks for Jacques Timey.

ProvenanceSotheby's New York, April 12, 2000, Jewels From the Collection of Mr. and Mrs. Lloyd H. Smith, lot 357.

Accompanied by AGL report no. 1084702 A and B stating that the sapphires are of Classic Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.



Lot 206. Property From a Distinguished Family Collection. Magnificent Sapphire and Diamond Necklace-Bracelet Combination, Harry Winston. Set with seven emerald-cut sapphires weighing a total of approximately 123.13 carats. Estimate $1/1.5 millionLot Sold 1,935,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Of flexible, slightly graduating design, set with seven emerald-cut sapphires weighing a total of approximately 123.13 carats, completed by round and pear-shaped diamonds, length 16 inches, with maker's mark for François Tavernier, numbered A2383, the front detaches for wear as a bracelet, length 7¼ inches, with another detachable section, length 1½ inches, for variety of wear. With signed and fitted box.

ProvenanceSotheby's New York, October 30, 1997, Extraordinary Jewels from a Private Collection, lot 31.

Accompanied by AGL report no. 1084698 stating that the sapphire weighing approximately 12.78 carats is of Kashmir origin, the three sapphires weighing approximately 17.32, 17.11, and 12.46 carats are of Burmese origin, and three sapphires weighing approximately 24.32, 20.79, and 18.35 carats are of Ceylon origin, with no indications of heating. 


Lot 185. Property of a Distinguished Private Collector. Highly Important Burmese Ruby and Diamond Ring Weighing 15.01 carats. Estimate $2.5/3.5 millionCourtesy Sotheby's.

Centered by an octagonal step-cut ruby weighing 15.01 carats, flanked by half-moon-shaped diamonds, size 6¾.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 17092008 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

Accompanied by AGL report no. 1087600 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.


Lot 183. Property of a Distinguished Private Collector Exceptional Colombian Emerald and Diamond Ring, Carvin French Weighing 8.01 carats. Estimate $650/ 850,000Lot Sold 1,035,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Set with a square emerald-cut emerald weighing 8.01 carats, flanked by triangular-cut diamonds, size 7¼, with maker's mark.

Accompanied by AGL report no. 1087478 stating that the emerald is of Classic Colombian origin, clarity enhancement: minor, type: traditional.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 17092009 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement.


Catharine Becket, Head of Magnificent Jewels, New York commented: “This December, we’re pleased to present the inaugural Icons series in our Magnificent Jewels sale. The pieces to be featured possess a compelling variety of characteristics: rarity, authorship, provenance and, above all, iconic design. It is an ideal collection of our very own creation, one that represents connoisseurship and celebrates the best jewels and jewelers from the early twentieth century to today. Highlights include a classic double-headed diamond and onyx-studded panther bracelet by Cartier, a vintage ‘Serpenti’ watch by Bulgari, and masterfully-rendered brooch by JAR.”




Lot 302. Property From a Private Collection. Diamond, Onyx and Emerald ‘Double Panther’ Bracelet, Cartier, France. Estimate $275/375,000. Lot Sold 362,500 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Designed as pair of opposing panthers, pavé-set with round diamonds, with buff top onyx spots, completed by pear-shaped emerald eyes, internal circumference 6 inches, signed Cartier, numbered 13623C, with French assay and workshop mark. With signed box.

NoteExotic, elegant, and powerful, the panther motif utilized by Cartier is perhaps one of the most easily spotted jewelry designs of all time. It was under Jeanne Toussaint’s leadership as creative director that the panther became a hallmark subject for the house in 1918. ‘Panthère’ would later become Toussaint’s own nickname, dubbed so by Louis Cartier himself. Toussaint’s chic and contemporary style helped the feline-inspired creations to flourish, with legendary jewelry collectors such as the Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Hutton and Princess Nina Aga Khan commissioning custom cats of their own.

Today the panther has become fully entrenched within the Cartier brand, with the felines themselves even making appearances alongside their jeweled counterparts in advertisements for the firm. The panther jewels display Cartier’s unmatched craftsmanship, with many of them moving with the distinct neatness of panthers in the wild. The bracelet offered here, for example, sleekly swivels to be placed on the wrist. Cartier has consistently evolved and reinvented the panther over the last 100 years, proving that icons can stand the test of time.



Lot 303. Property of a Gentleman. Diamond and Green Garnet Brooch, JAR, Paris. Estimate $450/650,000Lot Sold 1,515,000 USDCourtesy Sotheby's.

Cf. my post: Diamond and Green Garnet Brooch, JAR, Paris



Lot 312. Gold, Diamond and Emerald ‘Serpenti’ Wristwatch, Bulgari. Estimate $200/300,000Lot Sold 225,000 USD. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Designed as a coiled serpent, the scales composed of gold tubogas links, the head and tail highlighted by round and marquise-shaped diamonds, further accented by marquise-shaped emeralds, with cabochon emerald eyes, the mouth opening to reveal a watch dial with baton indicators, mechanical movement, internal circumference 5½ inches, expandable, the dial signed Bulgari and Jaeger-LeCoultre, the caseback signed Bulgari, numbered 146634, with French assay and workshop marks; circa 1960s. With signed box.

NoteAccompanied by a certificate from Carlo Illario & Flli stating that the watch was manufactured by Carlo Illario & Flli for Bulgari Rome, circa 1960.

This watch is similar in design to one in Elizabeth Taylor's Collection. Taylor's Serpenti watch is illustrated on the cover of Bulgari: Serpenti Collection by Marion Fasel.

As one of the oldest Italian jewelry houses dating back to 1884, Bulgari has a longstanding tradition of creating jewelry with the highest quality craftsmanship, utilizing the finest gemstones available.   During the middle of the 20th century Bulgari embraced the post-war dichotomy within Italian society – the desire to embrace a new, modern way of life as well as stay connected to Italy’s deep classical roots.  This ideal has carried forward to present day with Bulgari’s jewelry capturing the essence of Italian glamour for the contemporary woman.  In a 1963 article in Connaissance des Arts, art historian Evelyne Schlumberger affirms, “A Bulgari jewel is as recognizable as a Chanel suit.”

One of the most recognizable designs which Bulgari first introduced in the 1940s, is the tubogas “gas pipe” technique, which later developed into literal interpretations of the serpent in the 1960s.  Lot 312 is an exemplary serpenti bracelet-watch which highlights a serpent’s head perched atop the snake’s coiling body, opening to reveal a watch dial.   This piece captures the spirit and essence of the sophisticated and stylish jewelry collector, which Bulgari has long striven to embody.

FINE JEWELS 7 December 2017

Whether gifting to yourself or a loved one, our Fine Jewels sale has fashionable baubles for every price point, style and occasion. Featuring classic diamond rings, whimsical brooches and elegant dress sets by highly coveted makers such as Cartier, David Webb, Van Cleef & Arpels and Schlumberger, the sale truly has something for everyone on your list this holiday season. Notable lots include a 12.92 carat Diamond Ring mounted by Cartier (left, estimate $100/150,000), a Pair of Emerald and Diamond Earclips from the collection of Sir Sean and Lady Michelle Connery (estimate $50/70,000), and a Sapphire and Diamond Bracelet from Oscar Heyman & Brothers (estimate $35/55,000). 


Following the launch of our exclusive Luxury & Lifestyle Division this past spring, Sotheby’s New York is holding an inaugural week of sales and events from 30 November to 7 December, during which we will offer the very best examples of Jewelry, Watches, Cars, Wine and Fashion.