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26 décembre 2017

Hutagraffe of the diamond rose garniture. Christian August Globig & August Gotthelf Globig, Dresden, between 1782 and 1789

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Hutagraffe of the diamond rose garniture. Christian August Globig (before 1747-1798), Jeweler & August Gotthelf Globig (before 1769-after 1819), jeweler. Dresden, between 1782 and 1789. 15 large and 103 small diamonds, silver, gold. 13.5 x 6.5 cm. Green Vault, VIII 10 © Dresden State Art Collections

The brim of the diamond rose garnish impresses with the sheer size of its diamonds, whose rose cut was already very popular in the 17th century. When Christian August, together with his son August Gotthelf Globig, created this relatively late version of a Baroque-derived form of Hutzier between 1782 and 1789, the diamond rose cut was long outdated. The larger diamondoses have already been re-ground in brilliants at most European yards with considerable material loss. Elector Friedrich August III. Saxony, on the other hand, had decided to place the existing stone stock, qualitatively improved by Jean Jacques Pallard between 1749 and 1753, in a new set. The main button, which was sewn on the brim of the hat and therefore had special significance as a highly visible element, was designed by the Globigs very striking. In its center sits a 62 ½ gran (16.015 ct) diamond. The inner Umkränzung of 19 smaller diamonds and the second with seven large diamonds form a magnificent rosette. The two cords and the upper hat button are designed according to the Achselband the garnish (VIII 11), so that the hat brim and epaulette as juxtaposed pieces of jewelry put together. In the middle of the loop, made of two diamond-studded ribbons, sits a very high diamond rose. The lavish splendor of the hat brim was still in the spirit of the jewelery sets of the first half of the 18th century. Her biggest stone, the high diamond rose, already adorned in 1719 the hat jewelry of diamond rose. For the fashionable hat jewelry of an Elector this hat brim at the end of the 18th century, however, was no longer enough. Thus, the Globigs made four almost 7 cm long strands, densely occupied with twelve diamond roses each, but their attachment to the then common tricorn is no longer known today.
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