Lot 894. A Platinum and Diamond ‘Rosebud’ Brooch, Verdura, France, 1958. Estimate 20,000 – 30,000 USD. Lot sold 92,500 USD. Photo: Sotheby's 2012

Set with 206 round diamonds and 29 baguette diamonds weighing approximately 22.00 carats, partially signed Verdura, Made in France; with box.  

Note: In 1934, after years of working as a textile and jewelry designer for Coco Chanel in Paris, Fulco di Verdura took the advice of Diana Vreeland, the fashion journalist and later Vogue editor, and immigrated to the United States to work under the tutelage of jewelry designer Paul Flato. As Vreeland suspected, this would become an auspicious partnership. Flato's jewelry was sculptural and whimsical, which was perfectly aligned with Verdura's own design aesthetic. While working for Flato, Verdura made a name for himself by creating jewels that were striking and contemporary yet playful. His designs garnered such attention that he was able to open his own Fifth Avenue salon in 1939 with the financial backing of Cole Porter and Vincent Astor.

Once Verdura opened his own salon, he created jewelry for many members of New York's social elite. Given Vincent Astor's role as one of Fulco di Verdura's patrons, it comes as no surprise that Mrs. Astor's collection is filled with jeweled delights from the designer. The naturalism of the 'rosebud' brooch and 'leaf and flower' bracelet recall his days with Flato, while the streamlined mix-and-match 'ribbon' bracelets show his playful side. In 1940 Vogue proclaimed that "any jewel that Verdura touches becomes a more interesting jewel;" the jewelry in Mrs. Astor's collection exemplifies this statement as the beauty of each piece is enhanced by its uniqueness. 

Sotheby's. Property from the Estate of Brooke Astor. New York, 24 sept. 2012