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 © Bonhams 2001-2018

NEW YORK, NY.- Burmese rubies, Kashmir sapphires, Colombian emeralds, an impressive selection of magnificent diamonds together with a large collection of David Webb jewelry will be offered by Bonhams New York in its first jewelry auction of 2018. 

Leading the 17 April sale is A Diamond Solitaire Ring estimated at $500,000 - 700,000. The round brilliant-cut diamond weighs 10.01 carats and is F color, VVS2 clarity and is from a private collection in the US. 

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Lot 115. A Diamond Solitaire Ring, 10.01 carats, F color, VVS2 clarity. Estimate US$ 500,000 - 700,000 (€ 400,000 - 570,000)© Bonhams 2001-2018

centering a round brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 10.01 carats, accented by similarly cut diamond-set shoulders;mounted in platinum; size 6

Accompanied by GIA report # 2105465775, dated September 21, 2017, stating the diamond as: F color, VVS2 clarity.

The sale, which consists of 133 lots, will also include a selection of impressive colored stones including the king of gems, rubies. Highlights include:  

• An Art Deco Ruby and Diamond Bracelet by Cartier, circa 1935, estimated at $80,000 - 120,000. Art Deco jewelry by Cartier continues to be highly sought after due to its exceptional craftsmanship, impressive design and rarity. This bracelet follows the bold color schemes of many pieces of Art Deco jewelry, contrasting rubies with white diamonds. It features seven rows of ruby beads, interspersed by baguette-cut diamond bars, flanked by old European-cut diamonds and is accompanied by an AGL report stating the rubies are Burmese (Myanmar) origin with no indications of heat or clarity enhancement. 

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Lot 132. An Art Deco Burmese ruby and diamond bracelet, Cartier, circa 1935Estimate US$ 80,000 - 120,000 (€ 65,000 - 97,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

composed of seven rows of ruby beads, interspersed by baguette-cut diamond bars, flanked by old European-cut diamonds; signed Cartier, made in France, with maker's mark; estimated total diamond weight: 14.40 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 8 1/8in.

Accompanied by AGL report # 1090696, dated February 20, 2018, stating the rubies as: Burmese (Myanmar) origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

• A Ruby and Diamond Necklace by Bulgari estimated at $200,000 - 300,000. Wearable for both day and night, the elegantly designed necklace features a total of 50 graduated oval-shaped rubies, the largest weighing approximately 2.15 carats, alternating with graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds. The rubies are Burmese (Myanmar) origin. 

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Lot 130. A Burmese ruby and diamond necklace, Bulgari. Estimate US$ 80,000 - 120,000 (€ 65,000 - 97,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

set with a line of graduated oval-shaped mixed-cut rubies, the largest weighing approximately 2.15 carats, alternating with graduated round brilliant-cut diamonds;unsigned; estimated total diamond weight: 5.45 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; length: 15 11/16in.
Accompanied by AGL report # 1090157, dated February 15, 2018, stating the rubies as: Burmese (Myanmar) origin, no indications of heat on forty-nine, one ruby heated, no clarity enhancement.

• A Ruby and Diamond Ring by Mermod & Jaccard estimated at $80,000 - 120,000. Timeless and elegant in style, this classic three-stone ring is set with an antique cushion-shaped ruby, weighing 3.24 carats, flanked by old European-cut diamonds, weighing 1.23 and 1.12 carats.  

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Lot 65. A Burmese ruby and diamond ring, Mermod & Jaccard. Estimate US$ 80,000 - 120,000 (€ 65,000 - 97,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

centering an antique cushion-shaped mixed-cut ruby, weighing 3.24 carats, flanked by old European-cut diamonds, weighing 1.23 and 1.12 carats; signed Mermod Jaccard; accompanied by a signed box; mounted in 18k gold; size 5

Accompanied by AGL report # 1090300, dated February 20, 2018, stating the ruby as Burmese origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

Accompanied by GIA report # 1196098847, dated February 14, 2018, stating the 1.23 carats diamond as: H color, VS2 clarity.

Accompanied by GIA report # 2191099778, dated February 14, 2018, stating the 1.12 carats diamond as: H color, VS2 clarity.

Note: George John Kobusch (1866-1927), with his father, founded the St. Louis Car Company in 1887. At the age of twenty-five, Mr. Korbusch became president of the company and brought it fully into the machine age, becoming the largest streetcar manufacturer in the world. They eventually branched out into automobiles, airplanes and specialized capsules for the St. Louis Arch. This lovely Burmese ruby and diamond ring was purchased for Mr. Korbusch's bride, Julia Elise Luedinghaus, for the birth of one of their two daughters between 1893 and 1897, from the elite jeweler Mermod & Jaccard (1864-1980). The ring has been passed through Mr. Kobusch's family for four generations.

Caroline Morrissey, Senior Jewelry Specialist, Bonhams New York, says: “Rubies are far rarer than colorless diamonds, a fact that has been recognised in the world-record breaking prices they set at auction. Given the international appetite for specimen rubies together with a greater appreciation of this gemstone, we are anticipating keen interest in these pieces during our previews in New York, LA, Geneva and Hong Kong.”  

Sapphires are continuing to attract buyers from all over the world as a result of a renewed appreciation of good quality sapphires from Kashmir, Sri Lanka and Burma. In its April sale, Bonhams has a number of excellent specimen gemstones from each of these areas. These include: 

• A Sapphire and Diamond Ring estimated at $80,000-120,000. Gracing the front cover of the catalog, the 9.85 carats emerald-cut sapphire is of Kashmir origin – the area most highly prized for gem quality sapphires - and has no indication of heat or clarity enhancement. The ring was previously in the collection of an aristocratic French lady and this is the first time it has come to auction.

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Lot 124. Previously in the collection of an aristocratic French lady. A Kashmir sapphire weighing 9.85 carats and diamond ring. Estimate US$ 80,000 - 120,000 (€ 65,000 - 97,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

centering a rectangular-shaped emerald-cut sapphire, weighing 9.85 carats, framed by baguette-cut and round brilliant-cut diamonds; with French assay mark; estimated total diamond weight: 1.60 carats; mounted in platinum; size 7

Accompanied by SSEF report # 98139, dated February 22, 2018, stating the sapphire as: Kashmir origin, no indications of heating. 

Accompanied by AGL report # 1090225, dated February 9, 2018, stating the sapphire as: Kashmir origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

Note: The legendary sapphires of the Kashmir region were first discovered in a remote part of the Himalayan Mountains around 1880. Quickly becoming the property of the Maharaja, the sapphire mines were worked day and night throughout the summer months until 1887, when they were completely depleted. Kashmiri sapphires are a rich and lustrous blue, often compared to that of a cornflower, and surpassing that of sapphires from any other part of the world. With such limited production, Kashmir sapphires make up a tiny percentage of the world's total sapphire supply.

• A Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Necklace estimated at $280,000 - 320,000. The cushion-shaped sapphire, weighing 40.07 carats, is of Ceylon (Sri Lanka) origin and has no indications of heat or clarity enhancement. Sri Lanka is also known as Island of Gems with sapphires unearthed from the lush plains near Ratnapura. 

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Lot 131. A Ceylon sapphire weighing 40.07 carats and diamond pendant necklace. Estimate US$ 280,000 - 320,000 (€ 230,000 - 260,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

centering a cushion-shaped modified mixed-cut sapphire, weighing 40.07 carats, within a surround of single and round brilliant-cut diamonds, suspended by a line of similarly cut diamonds, interspersed by circular disks, accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds, to an old pear-shaped diamond surmount, weighing approximately 1.55 carats; estimated remaining diamond weight: 4.15 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 17in.

Accompanied by AGL report # 1090303, dated February 16, 2018, stating the sapphire as: Ceylon (Sri Lanka) origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

Accompanied by GRS report # GRS2001-03594, dated March 29, 2001, stating the sapphire as: Burmese (Myanmar) origin, no indications of thermal treatment.

• A Diamond and Sapphire Bracelet by Bulgari estimated at $40,000-60,000 (pictured above). The bracelet is centrally set with a line of oval-shaped sapphires of Burmese (Myanmar) origin, framed by a cluster of marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds. Burma has produced some of the world's finest blue sapphires mined in the Mogok area. The sapphires in the bracelet are accompanied by a report confirming that there are no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.  

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Lot 116. A diamond and Burmese sapphire bracelet, Bulgari. Estimate US$ 40,000 - 60,000 (€ 32,000 - 49,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

centrally set with a line of oval-shaped mixed-cut sapphires, framed by a cluster of marquise and round brilliant-cut diamonds; signed Bvlgari, no.2563; estimated total diamond weight: 12.95 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 6 5/8in.

Accompanied by AGL report # 1090156, dated February 15, 2018, stating the sapphires as: Burmese (Myanmar) origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement.

Hot on the heels of the sapphire and ruby lots, Bonhams will also be auctioning a wonderful selection of emeralds originating from Colombia. This includes An Emerald and Diamond Ring estimated at $110,000-150,000. The rectangular-shaped emerald-cut emerald, weighing 3.74 carats, has no indications of clarity enhancement.  

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Lot 109. A 3.74 carats Colombian emerald and diamond ring. Estimate US$ 110,000 - 150,000 (€ 89,000 - 120,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

centering a rectangular-shaped emerald-cut emerald, weighing 3.74 carats, flanked by rectangular-shaped diamonds; estimated total diamond weight: 1.70 carats; mounted in platinum; size 5 3/4

Accompanied by AGL report # 1085468, dated July 20, 2017, stating the emerald as: Colombian origin, no indications of clarity enhancement.

Accompanied by Gubelin report # 17067375, dated June 26, 2017, stating the emerald as: Colombian origin, no indications of clarity enhancement.

Accompanied by SSEF report # 92481, dated May 29, 2017, stating the emerald as: Colombian origin, no indications of clarity enhancement.

Collection of David Webb jewelry to hit the auction block 
Sixteen pieces of jewelry by American designer David Webb are set to go under the hammer at the April sale. Most of the pieces were purchased directly from David Webb and were collected over a period of 20 years. It is the first time that they have come to auction. 

The jeweler was known for his design, craftsmanship, and creativity and had an enviable following including the Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Jacqueline Kennedy. 

Webb was renowned for his big, bold designs and his unabashed use of color. Not afraid to take risks, he incorporated materials like exotic shells, carved rock crystal quartz, enamel and coral and made use of everything from geometric forms to naturalistic designs. The collection Bonhams will be offering includes A Diamond, Emerald, Ruby and Enamel Double Fox Head Bangle Bracelet estimated at $20,000-30,000. This is a perfect example of Webb’s penchant for animals
with delicate enamelwork complemented by diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. 

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Lot 43. A diamond, emerald, ruby and enamel double fox head bangle bracelet, David Webb. Estimate US$ 20,000 - 30,000 (€ 16,000 - 24,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

designed as opposing foxes applied with red, white and black enamel, the crowns set with cabochon emeralds, accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds, completed by cabochon ruby eyes; signed Webb; estimated total diamond weight: 4.25 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; gross weight approximately: 166.20 grams; circumference: 6 1/4in.

Other highlights in the collection include: 

• A Coral, Diamond, Sapphire, Emerald, Platinum Bangle Bracelet estimated at $25,000-35,000 

• An Amethyst, Coral, Emerald, Rock Crystal Quartz, Diamond and Enamel Pendant Necklace estimated at $30,000-50,000  

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Lot 36. A coral, diamond, sapphire and emerald bangle bracelet, David Webb. Estimate US$ 25,000 - 35,000 (€ 20,000 - 28,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018 

designed as a carved coral elephant, the torso composed of six fluted coral segments, interspersed by polished gold panels, the crown, tusks, and clasp set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, cabochon emerald eyes, the crown further accented with a cabochon sapphire; signed Webb; estimated total diamond weight: 4.75 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; gross weight approximately: 114.60 grams; circumference: 6 1/16in.

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Lot 41. An amethyst, coral, emerald, rock crystal quartz, diamond and enamel pendant necklace, David Webb. Estimate US$ 30,000 - 50,000 (€ 24,000 - 40,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018 

composed of carved amethyst beads, measuring approximately 10.7 to 8.2mm, interspersed by fluted coral and rock crystal quartz beads capped with round brilliant-cut diamonds and white enamel trim, suspending a carved coral plaque of mythical creatures, to an emerald bead, each framed by white enamel, accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds; signed Webb; estimated total diamond weight: 12.50 carats; mounted in platinum and 18k gold; gross weight approximately: 363.90 grams; length: 26 1/2in.

Natural pearls 
Natural pearls have seen a surge in value over the last decade and continue to be in demand according to Bonhams. Data from Art Market Research report a 286.1 percent increase in natural pearls over the last 10 years and two out of Bonhams top 10 lots sold at auction in 2017 were natural pearls. 

In this coming auction, A Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Earrings by Harry Winston will be offered for sale with a pre-sale estimate of $200,000-300,000. Composed of single drop pearls, measuring 18.0 x 13.1mm and 17.2 x 13.2mm, to round brilliant-cut diamond surmounts, they are expected to attract a lot of interest in the pre-sale previews.  

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Lot 86. A pair of natural pearl and diamond earrings, Harry WinstonEstimate US$ 200,000 - 300,000 (€ 160,000 - 240,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018  

composed of single drop pearls, measuring approximately 11.4 - 11.7 x 21.1mm and 10.8 - 11.0 x 21.1mm, to round brilliant-cut diamond surmounts; signed HW; estimated total diamond weight: 1.10 carats; mounted in 18k gold; length: 15/16in. 

Accompanied by SSEF report # 98907, dated March 15, 2018, stating the pearls as: Natural, Saltwater.

Signed jewelry from the world’s most renowned houses offered at Bonhams 
A fabulous selection of signed jewelry from Bulgari, Verdura, Tiffany & Co, René Boivin, Buccellati, Oscar Heyman and Ilias Lalaounis will be presented for sale at Bonhams New York. Distinguished by their designs and exceptional craftsmanship, highlights include: 

• A Platinum, 18k Gold and Diamond “Danseuse” Pendant by Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1950, estimated at $10,000-15,000. Designed as a ballerina, her head and tutu are set with single and rose-cut diamonds.  

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Lot 61. A platinum, 18k gold and diamond "Danseuse" pendant, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1950. Estimate US$ 200,000 - 300,000 (€ 160,000 - 240,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018  

designed as a ballerina, her head and tutu set with single and rose-cut diamonds; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, with maker's mark and French assay mark; gross weight approximately: 3.60 grams; length: 1 1/8in.

• An Opal and Diamond Pendant Necklace by Andrew Grima, dated 1972. The “flame” pendant features an oval-shaped cabochon red opal, weighing approximately 82.30 carats, within a radiating surround of textured gold, suspending from a textured gold collar. Estimated at $20,000 - 30,000 it is accompanied by an original drawing signed by the designer.  

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Lot 24. An opal and diamond pendant necklace, Andrew Grima, 1972. Estimate US$ 200,000 - 300,000 (€ 160,000 - 240,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018  

the "flame" pendant centering an oval-shaped cabochon fire opal, weighing approximately 82.30 carats, accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds, within a radiating surround of textured gold, suspending from a textured gold collar; signed Grima, AG.Ltd, with London hallmarks; accompanied by a signed pouch; estimated total diamond weight: 4.10 carats; mounted in 18k gold; gross weight approximately: 108.40 grams; circumference: 15 5/8in.

Accompanied by an original drawing signed by the designer.

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• An Art Deco Diamond Clip Brooch by René Boivin, dated circa 1933, estimated at $30,000 - 50,000. Boivin jewels are easily recognizable for their bold lines and sculptural design. Pieces produced between 1930 and 1940 are highly sought after and this platinum and diamond dress clip from circa 1933 captures the essence of this period’s aesthetic. 

Striking pieces from the Art Deco period set to capture collectors’ interest 
The auction will feature two pieces of jewelry that capture the glamor and style of Hollywood in its heyday. The first, A Platinum and Diamond Bangle Bracelet of scroll design, adorned with round brilliant-cut diamonds, has a pre-sale estimate of $50,000 - 70,000.  

Caroline Morrissey says: “This spectacular cuff is an exemplary demonstration of Joaillerie Blanche, a style born in 1929 that reached its heights in the late 1930s and was frequently worn by many of Hollywood’s greatest starlets. Although the cuff is unmarked, not unusual for the interwar period in which it was made, the importance of the piece itself suggests it was more than likely a unique piece or special order.” 

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Lot 125. A platinum and diamond bangle bracelet, circa 1935. Estimate US$ 50,000 - 70,000 (€ 40,000 - 57,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

the wide cuff of polished platinum layered 'steps' decorated with round brilliant-cut diamonds, with volute terminals pavé-set with similarly cut diamonds, and additional engraved scroll decoration at the sides;accompanied by original box; estimated total diamond weight: 21.45 carats; gross weight approximately: 167.60 grams; circumference: 6 1/16in. (expandable)

Note: This impressive cuff is a striking example of "Joaillerie Blanche", a genre of monumental, ultra-modern white jewels that was fashionable throughout the 1930s and worn by fashionable women on both sides of the Atlantic, including starlets of Hollywood's Golden Age. The fact that it is unsigned is not unusual for the period. Jewels purchased by Americans travelling in Europe between the World Wars were often deliberately manufactured without marks so customers could avoid paying Luxury Tax when taking the pieces back home to the USA. The design and quality of this piece suggest it may have been a special order from one of France's premier jewellery workshops. It is worth noting its similarity to an "Irradiente" bangle by Boivin, circa 1936 (see Mouillefarine, Laurence & Possémé, Evelyne (eds), "Art Deco Jewelry. Modernist Masterworks and their Makers", Thames & Hudson, 2009, page 95 for a gouache design drawing).

The second lot, An Art Deco Diamond Charm Bracelet, circa 1925, is estimated at $12,000-18,000. The single-cut diamond line bracelet, suspending 19 charms, is pavé-set with similarly cut diamonds, and one charm is accented with calibré-cut rubies. It features charms for every year – starting from 1922 and ending in 1940.

Caroline Morrissey adds: “Usually you find charm bracelets that are thematic or representative of an event or a passion, so this piece is a rare find as each charm displays the year in numerals in a slightly different font in a quintessential Art Deco style. In today’s market, having a piece of jewelry that tells such a story is a rarity.” 

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Lot 59. An Art Deco diamond charm bracelet, circa 1925. Estimate US$ 12,000 - 18,000 (€ 9,700 - 15,000). © Bonhams 2001-2018

the single-cut diamond line bracelet, suspending nineteen charms, pavé-set with similarly cut diamonds, accented by baguette-cut diamonds, one charm accented with calibré-cut rubies; estimated total diamond weight: 9.50 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 7in.

Charm bracelets are one of the only jewelry pieces which are both intimately personal and so highly desirable and collectable. It is a glimpse into the wearers life: her style, expression of who she is and where she has been. This is her story! This bracelet is purported to have a history of Hollywood glamor. You are first drawn in by the delicate diamond encrusted charms and then you realize they tell a story of this woman's life from 1922 through 1940. It is said that each charm was gifted to an actress by her producer after each movie filming wrapped. While there are many charm bracelets that remain from the 1950s and 60s, it is rare to come across an example from the 1920s.