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Lot 379. Important diamond necklace, the centre supporting a briolette diamond weighing 20.30 carats, by Cartier. Estimate: £220,000 - £280,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

LONDON.- Swing into the summer season with Sotheby’s: The Fine Jewels and online sales bring together a fabulous array of jewels for every occasion. The sales will offer pieces from across the decades – from antique jewels through 1920s chic to contemporary glamour – including eye-catching accessories for daytime as well as elegant evening jewels. From decorative creations to emblematic pieces by world-famous jewellery icons such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bulgari and JAR, collectors with an eye for stylish design and quality will be spoilt for choice. 

Sotheby’s galleries in London and Geneva will be filled with colour, as their specialists welcome jewellery lovers to try on pieces for themselves, or simply explore the wonderful selection. Jewels are on view to the public, in London, from 1-5 June and in Geneva, from 11 – 13 June. 

FINE JEWELS (London, 6 June) 
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Bulgari feature strongly in the London auction, alongside tiaras, stylish retro jewels from the 1940s and a fine selection of sapphire and emerald jewels. 

The 379-lot auction is led by a magnificent diamond necklace by Cartier, supporting a 20.30-carat briolette diamond (lot 379, est. £220,000 - 280,000 / $315,000 - 401,000) and a sumptuous sapphire and diamond bracelet made by the Parisian jeweller in the 1930s (lot 377, est. £70,000-90,000 / $101,000 - 129,000).  

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Lot 379. Important diamond necklace, the centre supporting a briolette diamond weighing 20.30 carats, by Cartier. Estimate: £220,000 - £280,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Cf. my post: Important diamond necklace, Cartier

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Lot 377. Sapphire and diamond bracelet, Cartier. Estimate: £70,000 - £90,000. Courtesy Sotheby's. 

Cf. my post: Sapphire and diamond bracelet, Cartier

Launched in the 1970s, Van Cleef & Arpels “Rose de Noël” jewels have been constantly reinvented, and have become emblematic of the Parisian jeweller. The perfect Summer accessory, a mother-of-pearl and diamond demiparure, is composed of a pair of earrings and a brooch (lot 293, est. £26,000 - 35,000 / $37,200 - 50,500). 

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Lot 293. Mother-of-pearl and diamond demi-parure, 'Clématis', Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: £26,000 - 35,000. Courtesy Sotheby's. 

Comprising: a brooch, designed as a flower, the petals set with polished mother-of-pearl, centring on brilliant-cut diamonds; and a pair of ear clips, each signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French assay and maker's marks.

Tiaras are glittering again, both on the aisle and on the catwalk. With no fewer than four tiaras in the sale, there is something for every look and every special event: a diamond foliate design from the early 20th century (lot 129, est. £4,200 — 7,000 / £6,100-10,000), a late 19th-century piece with palmettes (lot 182, est. £5,000 – 8,500 / $7,200 -12,200), a natural pearl and diamond diadem, late 19th century (lot 38, est. £5,000 -6,000 / $7,200 -8,600) and a tiara from around 1905 with floral and foliate scroll motifs (lot 14, est. £10,000 – 15,000 / $14,400 -21,500). 

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Lot 129. Diamond tiara , early 20th century. Estimate: £4,200 — 7,000. Courtesy Sotheby's. 

Of foliate design, set with cushion-shaped, circular-cut and rose diamonds, nine diamonds replaced with diamond simulantsinner circumference approximately 225mm. 

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Lot 182. Diamond tiara, late 19th century. Estimate: £5,000 — 8,500. Courtesy Sotheby's. 

Of foliate design, composed of graduated palmettes spaced with similar smaller motifs, set with cushion-shaped and rose diamonds, inner circumference  approximately 230mm, detaching to form a necklace, length approximately 430mm.

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Lot 38. Natural pearl and diamond diadem, late 19th century. Estimate: £5,000 — 6,000. Courtesy Sotheby's. 

The front set with graduated natural pearls measuring from approximately 3.9 to 5.5mm, each pearl set on knife-edge linking with rose diamond detail, to a rose diamond line base, fitting detachable, inner circumference approximately 345mm, later fitted case.  

Accompanied by a gemmological report. 

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Lot 14. Diamond tiara, circa 1905Estimate: £10,000 — 15,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

The front section composed of floral and foliate scrolls, rising to alternating spikes and cartouche motifs, millegrain-set with circular-, single-cut and rose diamonds, to a flexible band, inner circumference approximately 290mm, detaching to form the front part of a necklace, fitted box stamped Collingwood & Co.

The sale is also distinguished by a selection of jewels with royal provenance. Among three exquisite pieces formerly in the collection of HRH King Farouk of Egypt is a diamond brooch, designed as a bird perched on a coral branch, by Van Cleef & Arpels, one of the king’s favourite jewellers (lot 200, est. £700 – 1,500 / $1,050 – 2,150). The sale also includes a diamond parure, formerly in the collection of HRH Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon (lot 208, est. £10,000 – 12,000 / $14,000 – 17,200). 

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Lot 200. Formely in the collection of HRH King Farouk of Egypt. Diamond brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: £700 – 1,500. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Designed as a bird perched on a coral branch, its eye set with brilliant-cut diamonds, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered, French assay marks. 

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Lot 208. Formerly in the collection of HRH Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon. Diamond parure. Estimate: £10,000 — 12,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Comprising: a necklace, composed of hexagonal plaques and baton shaped linking, the front pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 390mm, four extra links; a bangle, inner circumference approximately 170mm; a ring, size L, sizing band; and a pair of pendent ear clips, screw fittings, fitted case.   

Provenance: Property from the Collection of Her Royal Highness The Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon, Christie's London, 13th June 2006, lot 156.

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HRH Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon wearing lot 208, attending a reception to celebrate the 80th birthday of Dame Vera Lynn at the Imperial War Museum, 20th March 1997. Image © Photoshot

Note: Accompanied by a certificate of provenance from Kensington Palace, authenticating the property was formally in the collection of Her Royal Highness, The Princess Margaret, Countess of Snowdon.

FINE JEWELS (Geneva, 14 June) 
Highlights of Sotheby’s 14 June auction in Geneva will include bold designs for daytime, as well as diamond essentials for the evening. 

Timeless and elegant, this ruby and diamond ring is set with a beautiful stone of Burmese origin, the most highly sought-after source for collectors. The 2.41-carat ruby is flanked by brilliant-cut diamonds (lot 814, est. CHF 71,000 – 91,000 / $71,850 – 92,089).

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Lot 814. A 2.41-carat Burmese 'Pigeon Blood' ruby and diamond ring. Estimate: CHF 71,000 – 91,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Set with an oval ruby weighing 2.41 carats, between brilliant-cut diamond shoulders, size 50.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 18031201 and GIA report no. 727868346, each stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating, 'Pigeon Blood' Colour.

As if carried on a summer breeze, these delightful brooches designed as dragonflies are composed of ravishing yellow sapphires. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, these creations are the perfect complement for summer, gliding gracefully from daywear into the evening (lot 826, est. CHF 10,000 – 15,000 / $10,120 – 15,180).  

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Lot 826. Pair of yellow sapphire and diamond brooches, Van Cleef & Arpels.  Estimate: CHF 71,000 – 91,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Each designed as a dragonfly set with circular-cut yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, one signed Van Cleef & Arpels, the other VCA, both numbered, French assay marks for gold and maker's marks.

Cartier’s ‘big cats’ deliver instant chic, whether as part of a smaller jewellery collection or a spectacular one. Emblematic of Cartier and evoking the illustrious brand’s history, these wonderful ‘Panthère’ earrings are set with pear-shaped emerald eyes, the cats’ teeth supporting oval onyx hoops (lot 668, est. CHF 12,000 – 18,000 / $12,144 – 18,215). 

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Lot 668. Gold and gem set earrings, 'Panthère', Cartier. Estimate: CHF 12,000 – 181,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

The eyes set with pear-shaped emeralds, each supporting an oval onyx hoop, clip fittings, signed Cartier, numbered, French assay mark for gold and maker's mark, accompanied by two pairs of interchangeable hoop fittings including rock crystal and gold.

From storied French Jewellery house Chaumet, these graceful gold earrings set with cultured pearls of different hues are glamorous and elegant, yet modern (lot 533, est. CHF 2,500 – 4,500 / $2,530 – 4,554). 

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Lot 533. Pair of gold and cultured pearl ear clips, Chaumet. Estimate: CHF 2,500 — 4,500. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Each of floral design, set with a cultured pearl of slightly cream and grey body colour respectively, one signed Chaumet, each with French assay mark for gold and maker's mark.

JEWELS ONLINE (5 - 15 June 2018) 
From a chic pair of earrings to a stunning gem set bangle, this online-only sale presents the ideal opportunity to perfect your summer look. 

One of the hallmarks of Paris-based jeweller JAR whose coveted jewels enjoy a cult following is the use of many different metals, both precious and nonprecious, as seen in this pair of ear clips, designed as a blackened aluminium curve (est. £3,000 - 5,000). 

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Lot 628. Pair of earclips, JAR. Estimate: £3,000 — 5,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Each designed as a blackened aluminium curve, clip fittings, one signed JAR, accompanied by fitted pouch stamped JAR. 

The bold linearity and dynamic geometry that characterised the art deco style can be found in this magnificent 1920s diamond brooch (est. £1,400 – 1,800). 

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Lot 523. Diamond brooch, 1920s. Estimate: £3,000 — 5,000. Courtesy Sotheby's.

Of geometric openwork design, millegrain set with circular- and single-cut diamonds, length approximately 41mm.

The sale also includes a number of fabulous pieces for the dapper gentleman, including a pair of sapphire cufflinks, Cartier, circa 1929 (est. £3,000 — 5,000) and a pair of lapis lazuli cufflinks, Tiffany & Co., designed as turtles (est. £1,500 – 2,000).