Lot 168. Exquisite Art Deco Aquamarine and Diamond Tiara-Necklace, Cartier, circa 1935. Estimate US$70,000 - USD 100,000. Price realised USD 828,500. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018
Rectangular, hexagonal, square and circular-cut aquamarines, circular and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum, may be worn as a necklace or applied to fitting and worn as a tiara, 16 ins., circa 1935, signed Cartier London, numbered, fitted red Cartier case..
Provenance: Christie’s, London, 24 November 1982, lot 166.
Literature: Cf. H. Nadelhoffer, Cartier, London, Thames & Hudson Ltd., 2007, p. 75
Cf. J. Rudoe, Cartier 1900-1939, New York, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997, p. 284.
Note: The Art Deco period was marked by a celebration of geometric patterns and adventurous use of color. These elements, combined with a prominent use of platinum, provided a sharp contrast from the sinuous and organic style of the proceeding Art Nouveau era.
In the 1930s, Cartier London used bright, variously-sized aquamarines to create some of their most noteworthy and intricate designs. Along with interest in earrings, rings and bracelets, the London branch received twenty-seven requests for aquamarine and diamond tiaras in 1937 alone. Many of these tiaras were worn to the coronation of King George VI that same year.