Lot 168. Exquisite Art Deco Aquamarine and Diamond Tiara-Necklace, Cartier, circa 1935. Estimate US$70,000 - USD 100,000. Price realised USD 828,500. © Christie's Images Ltd 2018
Rectangular, hexagonal, square and circular-cut aquamarines, circular and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum, may be worn as a necklace or applied to fitting and worn as a tiara, 16 ins., circa 1935, signed Cartier London, numbered, fitted red Cartier case..
Provenance: Christie’s, London, 24 November 1982, lot 166.
Literature: Cf. H. Nadelhoffer, Cartier, London, Thames & Hudson Ltd., 2007, p. 75
Cf. J. Rudoe, Cartier 1900-1939, New York, Harry N. Abrams, Inc., 1997, p. 284.
Note: The Art Deco period was marked by a celebration of geometric patterns and adventurous use of color. These elements, combined with a prominent use of platinum, provided a sharp contrast from the sinuous and organic style of the proceeding Art Nouveau era.
In the 1930s, Cartier London used bright, variously-sized aquamarines to create some of their most noteworthy and intricate designs. Along with interest in earrings, rings and bracelets, the London branch received twenty-seven requests for aquamarine and diamond tiaras in 1937 alone. Many of these tiaras were worn to the coronation of King George VI that same year.
Christie's. Magnificent Jewels, New York, 5 December 2018
