Lot 630. A Rare and Fine Pair of 5.27 and 5.18 carats Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Ear-clips, Ear-clips Signed Harry Winston. Estimate HK$7,500,000 - 8,500,000 ($962,000-1,090,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

HONG KONG.- This May in Hong Kong, Phillips’ Jewels and Jadeite Spring Sale will present a vast range of jewels, featuring rare and exceptional sapphires, quality gemstones, fancy coloured and the unique ASHOKA® cut diamonds, iconic pieces of modern and vintage jewellery by renowned makers, as well as fine jadeites in traditional forms and contemporary designs. With such a broad array of offerings this season, these are jewels that will appeal to seasoned collectors and influential tastemakers alike. 

Terry Chu, Head of Jewellery, Phillips Asia: “We are pleased to present a carefully curated auction showcasing both contemporary and vintage jewellery design with a modern sensibility, from the iconic Graff ‘Butterfly’ Diamond brooch, to the unique Art Deco Mauboussin gem-set and diamond sautoir necklace. This season also highlights very fine and rare examples of precious gemstones and the distinctive ASHOKA® cut diamond. A stunning selection of jadeite jewellery exudes both classic and contemporary appeal will also be presented alongside iconic designs by famed jewellers and independent designers.” 

EXCEPTIONAL SAPPHIRES 
A breathtaking pair of Kashmir sapphire ear-clips signed by Harry Winston will lead this season’s auction — Hailing from the legendary mine of Kashmir which was long depleted over a hundred years ago, the two specimens of matching size and cutting display the iconic blue hue that remains constant regardless of the light source – a distinctive attribute of Kashmir sapphires that makes them highly covetable. 

It is difficult to fathom the difficulty of assembling two Kashmir sapphires of matching quality in this size, and for them to be completely free of heat treatment. It is a quest that required years, if not decades to complete. 

Lot 630. A Rare and Fine Pair of 5.27 and 5.18 carats Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Pendant Ear-clips, Ear-clips Signed Harry Winston. Estimate HK$7,500,000 - 8,500,000 ($962,000-1,090,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Two cushion-shaped sapphires, 5.27 and 5.18 carats
Marquise-, pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds in the surround and atop, together approximately 18.00 carats
Platinum
Ear-pendants detachable
Ear-clips with Jacques Timey 'JT' maker's mark for Harry Winston and numbered 6762

Among other highlights in the auction are several exceptional Sri Lankan sapphires: 

Lot 600. A Fine Pair of Sri Lankan Sapphire and Diamond Ear-clips, 12.06 & 10.82 carats. Estimate: HK$3,200,000 - 3,600,000 ($400,000-460,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Two cushion-shaped sapphires, 12.06 and 10.82 carats
Surrounded by oval diamonds, totalling approximately 3.50 carats
Platinum

Lot 620. A Remarkable 26.24-carat Sri Lankan Sapphire and Diamond Ring, Alexandre Reza. Estimate: HK$1,800,000 - 2,200,000 ($230,000-280,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips

One oval sapphire, 26.24 carats
Oval diamonds set throughout the bombé mounting, totalling approximately 23.00 carats
18 karat yellow gold
With French assay and maker's marks
Signed A. Reza for Alexandre Reza
Size 6

(26.24-carat Sapphire) 
SSEF report, numbered 77378, dated 10 November 2014, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), no indications of heating.

QUALITY GEMSTONES AND FINE DIAMONDS 

Lot 593. A Fine 18.13-carat Sri Lankan Padparadscha Sapphire and Diamond Ring. Estimate: HK$1,900,000 - 2,400,000 ($240,000-300,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One cushion-shaped padparadscha sapphire, 18.13 carats
Surrounded by variously-shaped diamonds, totalling approximately 11.90 carats
Diamond-set split shank
18 karat white and yellow gold
Size 6

(18.13-carat Padparadscha Sapphire) 
SSEF report, numbered 10515, dated 22 February 2019, Ceylon (Sri Lanka), no indications of heating. 
SSEF appendix letter states that the padparadscha sapphire 'exhibits a remarkable size.....The attractive colour of this padparadscha is characterised by a vivid pinkish orange, further pronounced by the excellent purity and the well-proportioned cutting style......A natural padparadscha from Ceylon of this size and quality can be considered rare and exceptional.'

Note: Very few people know that padparadscha belongs to the same corundum family where blue sapphires and rubies are from. Apart from ruby, Padparadscha is the only member who has its own designated name where ‘padma’ translates to a lotus flower species from Sinhalese. This petals of this flower display both orange and pink colours, this is also what makes padparadscha a singular gemstone of unique charm – its colour ranges from light to medium tones of pinkish orange to orange pink hues. 

For a gemstone to achieve this delicate balance of hues, both the chemical elements present and its cutting plays a vital role. This spectacular specimen of close to 20 carats is one that represents such a rare accomplishment. Also free from heat treatment which is common among corundum, this padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka is imbued with a natural pinkish orange glow. The ring is also carefully designed to keep the metal at a minimum, allowing diamonds to float around the ‘padma’ like lotus leaves in water, heightening its ethereal beauty.

Lot 624. A Burmese Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, 47.40 carats. Estimate: HK$950,000 - 1,200,000 ($120,000-150,000). Sold for HK$1,100,000. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Ninety-three rubies, totalling 47.40 carats
Spaced by brilliant-cut diamonds, with pear-shaped diamonds on links, together approximately 14.20 carats
18 karat white and yellow gold
Length approximately 175mm.

(Rubies) 
SSEF report, numbered 101275, dated 11 July 2018, Burma, no indications of heating.

Lot 627. A Very Fine Pair of Natural Pearl and Diamond Pendent Ear-clips, Cartier London. Estimate: HK$2,800,000 - 3,200,000 ($350,000-400,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Suspending two drop-shaped natural pearls, measuring approximately 11.25-11.30 x 14.25mm and 11.15-11.35 x 14.00mm
Two button-shaped natural pearls in the surmounts, measuring approximately 8.40-8.45 x 4.90mm and 8.35-8.40 x 4.90mm
Circular and baguette diamonds together approximately 1.00 carat
Platinum
Signed Cartier London.

(Pearls) 
SSEF Report, numbered 106430, dated 15 April 2019, natural saltwater pearls, no indications of treatment.

Ancient civilizations believe that pearls were formed by dew drops, where white pearls resulted from those in fair weather and coloured pearls from cloudier conditions. This poetic association with heaven and nature is probably the reason why pearls have always been deemed pure and luxurious by mankind, greatly sought-after by kings and emperors, and were used in veneration of gods and idols. 
The formation of natural pearls is a beautiful accident that occurred when an outside substance enters and settles within a mollusc, but humans invented methods to reproduce the condition required for a pearl to grow. The result is an exponential increase in the quantity of cultured pearls available in the market, which means that tradition natural pearls – pearls formed by chance in the wild without any human intervention – are exceedingly rare. Even before pollution took its toll on water quality, tens of thousands of molluscs would have to be gathered and opened to find even one pearl.
A matching pair like these two natural white pearls that possess superb luster and a near-perfect shape is truly transcendent. Their classic beauty is glorified by an exquisite diamond-set mounting, displaying a regal flair comparable to heirloom jewels pass down in established families and magnificent suites of royal provenance.

Lot 628. A 4.01-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond Ring. Estimate: HK$800,000 - 950,000 ($100,000-120,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One step-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond, 4.01 carats
Flanked by two half moon-shaped diamonds
Platinum and 18 karat yellow gold
Size 6

(4.01-carat Diamond) 
GIA report, numbered 15178303, dated 31 July 2006, Fancy Vivid Yellow colour, VS1 clarity.

Lot 629. A Very Fine 6.28-carat D/IF Type IIa Diamond Ring. Estimate: HK$2,800,000 - 3,200,000 ($360,000-410,000). Sold for HK$1,100,000. Image courtesy of Phillips.

An step-cut diamond, 6.28 carats
Flanked by two baguette diamonds
18 karat white gold
Size 5½

(6.28-carat Diamond) 
GIA report, numbered 2195682368, dated 10 December 2018, D colour, Internally Flawless clarity, Excellent Polish and Symmetry. Diamond type classification report, type IIa diamond.

Lot 599. A Fine 6.83-carat Colombian No-oil Emerald and Diamond Ring. Estimate: HK$2,800,000 - 3,200,000 ($360,000-410,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One step-cut emerald, 6.83 carats
Flanked by two step-cut diamonds, together approximately 2.05 carats
Platinum and 18 karat yellow gold
Size 5½

(6.83-carat Emerald)
AGL report, numbered 1098131, dated 22 January 2019, Colombia, no clarity enhancement.
SSEF report, numbered 104595, dated 21 January 2019, Colombia, no indications of clarity modification.

RARE AND SPECIAL JEWELLERY BY MASTER JEWELLERS 

This season, Phillips will also offer vintage and modern jewellery by famed jewellers such as Cartier, Graff, Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels. One of the highlights is a unique Art Deco sautoir necklace made by Mauboussin in the 1920’s, which marked the most important chapter in the history of the legendary French maison. The use of carved coloured gemstones in the form of foliate motifs and fluted beads exudes exoticism and fascination with the Far East. Its versatility – the necklace is convertible to four bracelets – also reflects the lavish fashion of wearing multiple bracelets at that time. Preserved in its spectacular original condition, this necklace is a creation at the pinnacle of Mauboussin’s most glorious years and arguably one of the most collectible and precious examples. 

Lot 617. A Unique Art Deco Gem-set and Diamond Sautoir Necklace, Mauboussin, Circa 1929. Estimate: HK$4,300,000 - 5,800,000 ($550,000-750,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Necklace set with twelve carved rubies, highlighted by fluted emerald beads and multi-coloured gemstones, with diamond-set links
Giardinetto-style pendant set with diamonds, two carved rubies, two carved sapphires and a fluted emerald bead 

Circular and baguette diamonds altogether approximately 16.00 carats
Platinum
French made, with platinum marks
Pendant with brooch fitting
Necklace separated to form four individual bracelets
Mauboussin, unsigned
Necklace maximum length approximately 700mm 
Bracelets length approximately 170 to 175mm each.

With a Mauboussin fitted box, Certificate of Authenticity from Mauboussin, necklace and pendant dated 13 and 29 March 1929 respectively in archive.

Note: Historical events and technology advancement were among the prominent factors that shaped how jewellery were designed and perceived in the 20th century. Emancipation brought about a radical change in women fashion after the First World War which led to new ideas for adornments, jewellery included. 
For Mauboussin, a French Maison established in late 19th century that developed into a respectable operation with salons in Paris, New York, London, as well as Buenos Aires, the 1920’s was deniably the most important chapter in its history. During that time, the number of staffs went from 38 to 152 within a short seven years, and Mauboussin was awarded a major prize at the French Exhibition in New York in 1924, followed by a gold medal at the 1925 Exposition des Art Décoratifs in Paris.
Jewellery created by Mauboussin in this era is undeniably the most collectible, and this very necklace presents all the attributes characteristic of jewellery from that period. The planar geometry is unmistakably Art Deco, the use of carved coloured gemstones in the form of foliate motifs and fluted beads exudes exoticism and fascination with the Far East; the pendant of giardinetto motif testifies to the resurgence of the 17th century design in the 1920’s. In addition, sleeveless gowns with low waistline and boyish haircuts championed sautoir necklaces anchored by large pendants just like this one. Its versatility – the necklace is convertible to four bracelets – also reflects the lavish fashion of wearing multiple bracelets at that time. 
Preserved in its spectacular original condition, this necklace is a creation at the pinnacle of Mauboussin’s most glorious years and arguably one of the most collectible and precious. 

The cover lot of this season is a magnificent brooch from Graff’s ‘Butterfly’ series, a unique piece composed of 86 high quality diamonds weighing a total of over 60 carats. The oversized wings are studded with sizeable brilliant-cut diamonds and the openwork structure emphasizes the lightness of its wings while affording them a massive volume of dazzling brilliance that seems to radiate from its body. Graff was inspired by the symmetrical geometry of butterflies and has incorporated this in their watches and high jewellery collection. 

Lot 560. A Unique and Glamorous Diamond 'Butterfly' Brooch, Graff, Circa 2013. Estimate: HK$1,600,000 - 2,000,000 ($200,000-250,000). Sold for HK$2,000,000. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Circular-cut diamonds set throughout the articulated wings, with pear-shaped diamonds on body and antenna, together approximately 60.15 carats
18 karat white gold
Signed Graff and numbered 7460

With a signed box

Note: This brooch from Graff’s 'Butterfly' series is nothing short of magnificence. The oversized wings are studded with sizeable brilliant-cut diamonds and the openwork structure emphasizes the lightness of its wings while affording them a massive volume of dazzling brilliance that seems to radiate from its body. Graff was inspired by the symmetrical geometry of butterflies and has incorporated this in their watches and high jewellery collection.

OTHER IMPORTANT HIGHLIGHTS 

Lot 551. A Rare Cultured Pearl and Diamond 'Flower and Berries' Brooch, Suzanne Belperron, Circa Mid-20th Century. Estimate: HK$280,000 - 380,000 ($36,000-48,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Foliate motifs set with numerous old-cut diamonds, together approximately 10.00 carats
Accented by three cultured pearls, diameter approximately 8.25 to 7.25mm each
Platinum and 18 karat white gold
Unsigned.

With a Belperron Certificate, numbered B50509282015, dated 28 September 2015.

Note: Suzanne Belperron may not be a household name in the auction world just yet, but seasoned jewellery collectors would jump on any opportunity to acquire a piece of her original works. 

Recognized as one of the few important 20th century female jewellery designers, Madame Belperron began working as a designer for Maison René Boivin Paris in 1919 and was co-directress in 1932 when she left to design exclusively for B. Herz. As a true pioneer of her time, she dismissed the ubiquity of Art Deco designs and introduced new forms and volumes to the world of jewellery. Materials such as chalcedony and hardstones were carved to fit daring designs, defying aesthetic beliefs of that era. It is the sparing extravagance that made her works immediately recognizable, yet Madame Belperron never signed her piece, claiming that ‘my style is my signature’. This fact, however, did not stop people from amassing her works which were ground-breaking at the time they were made and are still hauntingly modern till this very day. 

Madame Belperron built a loyal following from royal family members to fashion designers, bankers to writers. Karl Lagerfeld described her work as having ‘a humble splendour’ and declared that he loved ‘the magic equilibrium in everything she designed.’ This brooch is one of her most iconic floral design with succulent leaves decorated by ‘berries’ which she revisited at various stages of her career.

Lot 581. An Art Deco 3.95-carat Colombian No-oil Emerald and Diamond Brooch, Cartier Paris, Circa 1930. Estimate: HK$600,000 - 700,000 ($77,000-90,000). Sold for HK$812,500. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One step-cut emerald, 3.95 carats
Circular-cut diamonds in the surround, totalling approximately 10.50 carats
Platinum and 18 karat white gold
With French assay marks.

Signed Cartier Paris and numbered L2160.

(3.95-carat Emerald) 
AGL report, numbered 1096483, dated 13 November 2018, Colombia, no indications of clarity enhancement.

Lot 632. A 10.05-carat ASHOKA® Diamond and Diamond Ring. Estimate: HK$2,500,000 - 2,800,000 ($320,000-360,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One Ashoka-cut diamond, 10.05 carats
Gallery and shank set with tiny brilliant-cut diamonds
Platinum
Size 6.

(10.05-carat Diamond) 
GIA report, numbered 5151251661, dated 17 January 2018, G colour, VVS1 clarity.

Note: With an exclusive diamond cutting comes a famed legacy – Ashoka the Great of the Indian Mauryan Empire was the ruler of one of the world’s largest empires at the time and a propagator of Buddhism. After years of battles, the ruler was sickened by the slaughter of war. He found peace in the practice of Buddhist teachings and announced that the religion would become national. The myth goes that diamonds which were found in the ancient city of Golconda in India had the power to banish sorrows. When a 41.37-carat diamond appeared before him, he decided to christen it ‘Ashoka’ as a notion of enlightenment.

This story of benevolence and generosity has inspired a cutting that resembles a long cushion shape, consisting of a total of 62 facets – four more than a standard round – and is patented by William Goldberg. An extra-long rough is a requisite for such a rare cutting and fewer than one in five stones would meet this requirement. Its shape and numerous facets also afford it sensational radiance and a larger look. According to Goldberg who perfected this unique cutting, it takes up to six months for completing a single stone, and the annual production is extremely scarce. Such an example of over 10 carats is undeniably one of the most unusual and stunning diamonds available in the market today.

JADEITE JEWELLERY WITH CONTEMPORARY AND TRADITIONAL DESIGN 

This season, Phillips presents fine jadeite in both traditional forms and contemporary designs. 

Lot 611. An Impressive Jadeite Cabochon and Diamond Ring. Estimate: HK$6,600,000 - 7,500,000 ($850,000-950,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One oval jadeite cabochon, measuring approximately 25.2 x 20.85 x 9.75mm
18 karat white gold
Size 7½

(Jadeite Cabochon)
Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory report, numbered KJ99869, dated 8 March 2019, Type A Jadeite, natural colour without any resin.

Note: Jadeite cabochon has always been highly covetable amongst all forms of jadeite jewellery. Only if a boulder is of significant size with wide spread of colour can the material be considered suitable for double-cabochons, which are very rare nowadays. Comprising dome surface on both sides, a double cabochon facilitates the refraction of light when it passes through the stone, enabling an alluring water-like translucency. 

This very jadeite cabochon displays a vivid and pure emerald green colour that is evenly distributed in the entire stone and an excellent translucency, together with an extremely fine texture. With an impressive size comes an even more impressive thickness. Simply flanked by two diamonds, the cabochon’s watery lustre was contrasted with the scintillating fire of the white stones, heightening the elegance, simplicity and subtle beauty of natural jadeite. Such a gemstone possesses all the qualities of the best products available in present day market and deemed highly suitable as a heirloom jewel. 

Lot 608. A Fine Jadeite Bangle. Estimate: HK$6,000,000 - 8,000,000 ($770,000-1,000,000). Unsold. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One jadeite bangle, inner diameter and thickness approximately 55.60 and 11.25mm respectively.

(Jadeite Bangle)
Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory report, numbered KJ99866, dated 8 March 2019, Type A Jadeite, natural colour without any resin.

Lot 570. A Pair of Carved Jadeite Plaques, Ruby and Diamond Pendent Earrings, Karen Suen. Estimate: HK$380,000 - 480,000 ($48,000-60,000). Sold for HK$525,000. Image courtesy of Phillips.

Two carved jadeite plaques, measuring approximately 37.63 x 13.55 x 2.21 and 36.90 x 13.52 x 2.19 mm respectively
Embellished by eight half moon-shaped rubies, totalling approximately 21.85 carats
Highlighted by brilliant-cut diamonds on both sides, together approximately 9.35 carats
18 karat pink and white gold.

(Two Carved Jadeites) 
Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory report, numbered KJ99911, dated 14 March 2019, Type A jadeites, natural colour without any resin. 
(Rubies, based on random-testing) 
GIA report, numbered 7328379533, dated 8 April 2019, no indications of heating.

Note: Often considered a traditional gemstone mounted on jewellery hidden away as family heirloom, jadeite comes to astonish fashionista as the next chic element in modern day jewels. The jadeite plaques on this pair of earrings are placed in strong contrast to rubies that are cut specifically to realize this design. Its geometry calls to mind a pagoda structure and Art Deco jewellery influenced by Orientalism. Whether it is the choice of materials or the design concept, this lot is where the old and new, East and West coincides in elevated harmony.

This unique piece of jewel is comparable to collectible work of art, and the artist behind this is Karen Suen, one of the most promising jewellery designers from Hong Kong. Karen’s creations are exquisitely handcrafted and fascinate discerning clients worldwide with their originality and glamourous panache. She was recognized as one of the Ten Most Outstanding Designer in 2014 and received the Outstanding Greater China Designer Awards for her prowess as a high jewellery designer.

Lot 530. A Distinctive Jadeite, Lavender Jadeite and Diamond Pendant Necklace. Estimate: HK$720,000 - 950,000 ($92,000-120,000). Sold for HK$837,500. Image courtesy of Phillips.

One pear-shaped jadeite cabochon inlay in the centre, measuring approximately 30.72 x 14.88 x 7.17mm
One lavender jadeite intaglio, measuring approximately 46.23 x 29.21 x 12.65mm
Embellished by brilliant-cut diamonds, accented with a yellow diamond in the surmount, together 5.35 carats
18 karat white and pink gold
Maximum length approximately 620mm.

(Jadeite Cabochon and Lavender Jadeite Intaglio)
Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory report, numbered KJ99812 - 1 and 2, dated 28 February 2019, Type A jadeites, natural colour without any resin.

Note: Among all the colours found in natural jadeites, the most prized is green, followed by purple lavender which symbolizes elegance. These two colours happen to complement each other very well and is a popular chromatic combination in jadeite jewellery. A lavender jadeite gourd ring (Lot 602) offered in this sale is another perfect example. This special pendant, however, distinguishes itself by its clever and unusual design. 

A lavender jadeite boulder was carefully selected and fashioned into a pear-shaped cabochon that weighed 186.00 carats, then a portion of this cabochon was meticulously carved out to house another green jadeite of similar form and shape. The time, manpower and quality jadeite material invested into this masterpiece is indeed substantial and significant. Embedded in warm lavender colour, the jadeite double cabochon glows with an excellent translucency characteristic of superb Burmese specimen, exuding the vivacious spirit of spring season.