Lot 274. An Art Deco Colombian emerald of 88.03 carats, diamond and enamel brooch, Cartier. Estimate USD 1,000,000 - USD 1,500,000. Price realised USD 1,455,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2019.
Hexagonal carved emerald of 88.03 carats, circular cabochon carved emerald of 15.65 carats, oval cabochon emeralds, square and old-cut diamonds, black enamel, platinum and 18k white gold (French marks), 2 5/8 ins., 1927, signed Cartier, 'Made in France,' no. 02553.
Cartier, 2011: Certificate of Authenticity
AGL, 2019, report no. 1100318: Central 4 Emeralds, Colombia, insignificant to minor clarity enhancement, traditional type.
Literature: Rudoe 1997, p. 319, no. 270
Jaffer 2013, p. 320, no. 112.
Exhibited: Paris 2013, p. 223, no. 308b
Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2014, pp. 106-7
Victoria and Albert Museum, London 2015, p. 132, no. 78
The Miho Museum, Koka 2016, p. 187, no. 148
Grand Palais, Paris 2017, p. 323, no. 238
The Doge’s Palace, Venice 2017, pp. 320-21, no. 219
The Palace Museum, Beijing 2018, p. 333, no. 223
de Young Legion of Honor, San Francisco 2018, p. 140, no. 71.
Note: As seen in the archival sketch, this brooch was originally executed with pearls, carved emeralds and diamonds. It was displayed at the the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs and was later reworked by Cartier in 1927 to the current design.
Design for a brooch. Cartier Paris, 1925. Executed in platinum, pearls, enamel, emeralds and diamonds. Displayed at the international exhibition of modern industrial and decorative arts, held in Paris in 1925. Graphite and gouache on tracing paper. 14,8 x 12,8 cm. Inv. ST25/05B. Archives Cartier Paris © Cartier
Vitrine at the 1925 Exhibition of Modern Industrial and Decorative Arts in Paris, displaying the Berenice set: the shoulder necklace and tiara. Cartier Archives © Cartier
Christie's. Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence, New York, 19 June 2019