Lot 311. 'The Nizams of Hyderabad Sarpech'. An Antique Diamond, Spinel, Pearl and Enamel Sarpech. Estimate USD 1,000,000 - USD 2,000,000. Price realised USD 1,155,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2019.

Exhibited: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2014, pp. 62-63
Victoria and Albert Museum, London 2015, pp. 104-5, no. 56
The Miho Museum, Koka 2016, p. 126, no. 93
Grand Palais, Paris 2017, p. 224, no. 166
The Doge’s Palace, Venice 2017, p. 224, no. 166
The Palace Museum, Beijing 2018, p. 264, no. 171
de Young Legion of Honor, San Francisco 2018, p. 122, no. 55.

Note: Sarpech is Hindi for 'head feather' but is generally known as a turban ornament. It was worn almost exclusively by the emperor, Indian princes and their immediate family. Considered the ultimate symbol of royalty and sometimes used as a reward for exceptional service to the emperor, it evolved from the tradition of pinning a heron's feather (kalgi) to the front of a turban. Even during the reign of Jahangir (1569-1627) a sarpech can be seen in most portraits when they were painted in miniature. During the reign of Shah Jahan (1592-1666), sarpechs became much more elaborate and began to be jewel encrusted. There are many references in the Shah Nama of expensive jighas being presented to noblemen and courtiers in recognition of deeds undertaken in the name of the emperor.

After Queen Victoria became Empress of India in 1857 no Indian Prince was supposed to wear a crown and perhaps this explains the emergence of highly elaborate and jeweled sarpechs with their own interpretation of royalty.