Lot 97. A Spinel, Natural Pearl, Diamond and Emerald Bead 'Imperial Moghul Necklace' and Earrings, Cartier. Estimate USD 700,000 - USD 1,000,000. Price realised USD 1,935,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2019.
Antique tumbled spinel beads, natural pearls, circular, briolette and rose-cut diamonds, carved emerald bead of 25.89 carats, platinum and 18k white gold (French marks), necklace 16 ½ ins., 2012, signed Cartier, nos. RE1943 (necklace), accompanied by a pair of earrings 2 ¼ ins., signed Cartier, no. RE4121 (earrings), custom red Cartier case inscribed 'The Imperial Moghul Necklace'.
Cartier, 2011: Certificate of Authenticity (necklace)
Cartier, 2011: Certificate of Authenticity (earrings)
AGL, 2009, report no. CS 41137: 17 spinels, Tajikistan, no enhancement, letter attesting to the unique importance of the spinels
SSEF, 2011, report no. 58195: Emerald, 25.896 carats, Colombia, moderate clarity enhancement, oil
SSEF, 2011, report no. 60723: 29 natural pearls, saltwater
SSEF, 2011, report no. 59289: Tassel, 50 natural pearls, saltwater
Exhibited: Grand Palais, Paris 2017, p. 379, no. 279
The Doge’s Palace, Venice 2017, p. 384, no. 270
The Palace Museum, Beijing 2018, p. 386, no. 270.
Note: This contemporary Cartier necklace is reminiscent of jewelry from the Mughal period. Incorporating an antique spinel engraved 'Akbar Shah Bahadur', the necklace continues the firm's tradition from the early twentieth century of designing jewelry that highlights historical elements. The spinel refers to the great Mughal ruler, Akbar Shah II, who was demoted to the rank of King of Delhi by the East India Company in the early 19th century.