Lot 224. An antique Colombian emerald, diamond and pearl sarpech, circa 1890, later adapted by Cartier. Estimate USD 700,000 - USD 1,000,000. Price realised USD 915,000. © Christie's Image Ltd 2019.

The turban ornament set with a cushion mixed-cut emerald, oval-shaped old-cut diamond, rose and old-cut diamonds, pearl drop, silver-topped gold, fitted with plume holder, top element is detachable, lower section may be worn as a bazuband (armband), 4 5/8 ins., circa 1890, with later added brooch fitting by Cartier, Paris, 2012, red Cartier case.

AGL, 2019, report no. 1100335: Colombia, insignificant clarity enhancement, traditional type.

Literature: Jaffer 2013, p. 236, ill. p. 274, no. 97.

Exhibited: Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York 2014, p. 110
Victoria and Albert Museum, London 2015, pp. 116-17, no. 66
The Miho Museum, Koka 2016, p. 135, no. 101
Grand Palais, Paris 2017, p. 284, no. 213
The Doge’s Palace, Venice 2017, p. 299, no. 207
The Palace Museum, Beijing 2018, p. 314, no. 211
de Young Legion of Honor, San Francisco 2018, pp. 124-25, no. 57.

Note: This turban ornament is an excellent example of the expanding Western influence in India in the early 20th century. With open gem settings, the use of silver and gold and the lack of enameling or engraving, the ornament parallels European jewelry trends

Christie's. Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence, New York, 19 June 2019