Lot 37. A diamond brooch, Bhagat. Estimate USD 40,000 - USD 60,000. Price realised USD 212,500. © Christie's Images Ltd 2019
Circular, half-moon and pear-shaped table-cut diamonds, circular-cut diamonds, platinum, 2 1/8 ins., 2015, signed Bhagat.
Exhibited: The Miho Museum, Koka 2016, p. 218, no. 176
Grand Palais, Paris 2017, p. 350, no. 262
The Doge’s Palace, Venice 2017, p. 364, no. 254
The Palace Museum, Beijing 2018, p. 368, no. 254
de Young Legion of Honor, San Francisco 2018, p. 160, no. 86
Note: Bhagat today is widely recognized as one of the most inventive contemporary jewelers of our time. Based in Mumbai, Bhagat works with a strictly limited but opulent palette of gemstones, tirelessly travelling the world in search of the rare and important material needed to manufacture their intricate and exquisite creations. Each unique jewel is made by hand with fewer than 60 produced annually. The essence of Bhagat’s originality lies in the manner in which they unite classical Indian forms and motifs with a contemporary sensibility that, whilst it combines aspects of East and West, is entirely international.
Now in its fourth and fifth generations, Bhagat is run by Viren along with his two sons, Varun and Jay. In recent years, their works have been exhibited globally at the Kremlin State Museum in Moscow, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
Lot 37, entirely set with diamonds, draws inspiration from architectural elements referred to as jali. These screens were used to allow air to flow through buildings whilst also providing privacy. Lot 38 is designed as a flowering plant, a central motif in Mughal decorative art. This motif also became popular in Europe during the 1920s and 1930s and is reminiscent of Art Deco jewelry by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Janesich. Both are very clever reinterpretations of history through timeless designs, continuing to inspire collectors and professionals alike.