Lot 167. An Art Deco diamond 'cliquet' brooch, Cartier. Estimate USD 200,000 - USD 300,000. Price realised USD 489,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2019.
Heart modified brilliant-cut diamond of 7.56 carats, marquise and old-cut diamonds, platinum (French marks), 2 ¼ ins., circa 1925, signed Cartier, 'Made in France', maker's mark, red Cartier case.
GIA, 2013, report no. 15768175: 7.56 carats, H color, Internally Flawless clarity.
Exhibited: The Miho Museum, Koka 2016, p. 196, no. 156
Grand Palais, Paris 2017, p. 298, no. 221
The Doge’s Palace, Venice 2017, p. 324, no. 224
The Palace Museum, Beijing 2018, p. 337, no. 228.
Note: Fibula brooches originated in the Roman period and were used to secure garments like cloaks, worn on the right shoulder. They are designed as a pin but have been developed in several forms and have been used ever since. Particularly in vogue in India, used to secure turbans, they were also a staple of Art Deco creations in Europe, as exemplified by lots 167 and 168. Recently, contemporary jewelry masters such as JAR and Bhagat have experimented by reinventing fibula brooch creations.
Christie's. Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence, New York, 19 June 2019