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Lot 142. A rare and impressive VVS2 2.17 carats fancy intense blue diamond and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: US$800,000-1,200,000 (€ 730,000 - 1,100,000) & Lot 141. A very fine VVS2 6.09 carats fancy colored diamond and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: US$800,000-1,200,000 (€ 730,000 - 1,100,000) Photo: Bonhams.

NEW YORK, NY.- Bonhams announced highlights of its upcoming sale of New York Jewels on September 26, featuring exceptional diamonds and colored stones, an array of both antique and modern jewelry, together with signed pieces by the great houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Tiffany & Co. The sale comprises 144 lots with estimates ranging from $3,000 up to $1.2 million. A highlight exhibition tour will start at Bonhams Los Angeles on September 6-9, then to Bonhams Hong Kong on September 16-18 by appointment only, leading up to the full exhibition at Bonhams New York starting September 21 at noon.

Highlighting the sale is a rare and impressive fancy colored diamond and diamond ring by Van Cleef & Arpels from a private collection (estimate: $800,000-1,200,000). Graded Fancy Intense Blue, VVS2 and weighing 2.17 carats, this emerald cut diamond is accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds. 

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Lot 142. A rare and impressive VVS2 2.17 carats fancy intense blue diamond and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: US$800,000-1,200,000 (€ 730,000 - 1,100,000). Photo: Bonhams.

centering an emerald-cut Fancy Intense Blue diamond, weighing 2.17 carats, accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds; signed VCA, no. 33474; estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.20 carats; mounted in platinum; size 9

Accompanied by GIA report # 1206506124, dated August 19, 2019, stating the diamond as: Fancy Intense Blue color, VVS2 clarity.

Brett O’Connor, Bonhams Senior International Jewelry Director, comments: “We are excited to present a curated selection of wearable jewelry that speaks to the taste of every collector. The sale comprises rare diamonds to fine Art Deco creations from a number of private collections, including the Estate of Joseph Schildkraut, a German silent film actor.”

The Van Cleef & Arpels section of the sale comprises of 14 lots and captures the spectrum of design of this great jewelry house, including a very fine emerald-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond ring, weighing 6.09 carats; an impressive and fine carved emerald, pearl and diamond necklace; an attractive oval-shaped Burma sapphire ring weighing approximately 21.56 carats; and an iconic 18k gold and ruby butterfly brooch, circa 1940.

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Lot 141. A very fine VVS2 6.09 carats fancy colored diamond and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: US$800,000-1,200,000 (€ 730,000 - 1,100,000). Photo: Bonhams.

centering a square-shaped emerald-cut Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond, weighing 6.09 carats, accented by old European-cut diamonds; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. NY 41942; estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.30 carats; mounted in 18k gold; size 10

 Accompanied by GIA report # 6204505809, dated August 09, 2019, stating the diamond as: Fancy Vivid Yellow color, VVS2 clarity.

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Lot 131. A fine emerald, pearl and diamond necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, New York. Estimate: US$80,000 - 120,000 (€ 73,000 - 110,000). Photo: Bonhams.

composed of three strands of cultured pearls, measuring approximately 6.27 to 6.44mm, to a diamond clasp, the pendant set with an impressive carved hexagonal emerald, to a baguette and round brilliant-cut diamond surround, accented by a detachable cultured pearl drop, measuring approximately 14.89 x 12.46 mm; signed VCA, NY, nos. 52217 and 6907, with maker's mark; estimated total diamond weight: 2.60 carats; mounted in 18k gold; length: 15in.

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Lot 134. An attractive 21.56 carats Burma sapphire and diamond ring, Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate: US$80,000 - 120,000 (€ 73,000 - 110,000). Photo: Bonhams.

centering an oval-shaped mixed-cut sapphire, weighing approximately 21.56 carats, flanked by trapezoid-shaped and baguette-cut diamonds; signed VCA, no. 32440-1; estimated total diamond weight: 1.70 carats; mounted in platinum; size 5

Accompanied by AGL report # CS 43995, dated April 27, 2019, stating the sapphire as: Burma (Myanmar) origin, no indications of heat or clarity enhancement. 

Accompanied by a letter from Van Cleef & Arpels, dated May 18, 2011, stating the sapphire ring, with the engraved number NY32440-1, is not in the original condition; however at the time of writing is considered Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Lot 86. An 18k gold and ruby butterfly brooch, Van Cleef & Arpels, French, circa 1940. Estimate: US$10,000 - 15,000 (€ 9,100 - 14,000). Photo: Bonhams.

modelled as an articulated butterfly, the brooch created in gold with collet-set square, triangular and cabochon rubies; signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 46759, with French assay marks; gross weight approximately: 46.50 grams; length: 4 1/2in.

Note: To view an original drawing of the piece, dated 1937, please see the Van Cleef & Arpels website, under 'Signature Butterflies'. 

Fashion and jewelry in the 1940s was influenced by the privations of World War II. Materials were restricted, so most jewelry was created from gold and small or reused stones, and forms were often restrained. Van Cleef & Arpels found exuberance in designs such as the ballerina, fairy, and butterfly that have become icons of the firm and are still made in modern ways today. The creative use of scoring in the polished gold on this butterfly brooch is a subtle and clever use of the material, as is the body created of graduated ruby segments. Jewelry in the 1940s needed to be versatile, and this exquisite brooch would be equally at home on suit jacket, sweater, or on the shoulder of an evening gown.

Courtesy of Sarah Davis.

DIAMOND HIGHLIGHTS
The sale features a selection of diamonds in a variety of cuts and colors, including a fine unmounted round brilliant-cut diamond weighing 11.11 carats with E color and VS2 clarity; a cushion-shaped modified brilliant-cut Fancy Deep Pink diamond ring weighing 2.42 carats and an impressive Fancy Yellow diamond ring weighing 24.64 carats. 

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Lot 144. A fine unmounted brilliant-cut diamond weighing 11.11 carats. Estimate: US$200,000 - 300,000 (€ 180,000 - 270,000). Photo: Bonhams.

Accompanied by GIA report # 1206489382, dated July 31, 2019, stating the diamond as: E color, VS2 clarity.

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Lot 130. A 2.42 carats fancy deep pink diamond and diamond ring. Estimate: US$200,000 - 300,000 (€ 180,000 - 270,000). Photo: Bonhams.

centering a cushion-shaped modified brilliant-cut Fancy Deep Pink diamond, weighing 2.42 carats, flanked by square-shaped and baguette-cut diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 1.70 carats; mounted in platinum; size 5 3/4

Accompanied by GIA report # 5201041464, dated February 20, 2019, stating the diamond as: Fancy Deep Pink color, SI1 clarity.

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Lot 132. An impressive 24.64 carats fancy yellow diamond and diamond ring. Estimate: US$200,000 - 300,000 (€ 180,000 - 270,000). Photo: Bonhams.

centering a cushion-shaped modified brilliant-cut Fancy Yellow diamond, weighing 24.64 carats, flanked by trapezoid-shaped diamonds; estimated remaining diamond weight: 2.40 carats; mounted in 18k gold and platinum; size 6 1/4

Accompanied by GIA report # 2195882545, dated November 27, 2018, stating the diamond as: Fancy Yellow color, SI1 clarity.

ART DECO
Highlighting the Art Deco section includes a very fine diamond, emerald and onyx bracelet, circa 1925, and two lots from the Estate of Joseph Schildkraut, a successful German silent film actor. The first lot is an elegant gentleman’s smoking set decorated with diamonds, circa 1925, comprising of a black lacquer lighter and cigarette case signed Cartier NY, and an onyx cigarette holder still containing an original monogrammed cigarette. His father Rudolph, also a silent screen film star, chose this set for Joseph to mark the opening of Grauman's Chinese Theater in Hollywood on May 18, 1927. The second lot is a diamond and enameled open face pocket watch made by Cartier circa 1925, also monogrammed with Joseph’s initials.

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Lot 69. A very fine diamond, emerald and onyx bracelet, circa 1925. Estimate: US$20,000 - 30,000 (€ 18,000 - 27,000). Photo: Bonhams. 

of openwork design, millegrain-set with old European, step-cut and half moon-shaped diamonds, highlighted with onyx and calibré-cut emeralds; estimated total diamond weight: 18.25 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 7 1/8in.

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Lot 118. A black lacquer, diamond and onyx smoking set, circa 1925. Estimate: US$3,000 - 5,000 (€ 180,000 - 270,000). Photo: Bonhams.

comprising of a black lacquer cigarette case and lighter, both embellished with JS motif, millegrain-set with rose-cut diamonds; and an onyx cigarette holder of trumpet form with a band of single-cut diamonds; the cigarette case signed Cartier NY; lighter and case accompanied by a signed fitted box; cigarette holder showing signs of repair; cigarette case length: 3 6/16in.; lighter length: 2 5/16in.; cigarette holder length: 5 1/2in.

Property from the Estate of Joseph Schildkraut.

 

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Lot 119. A diamond and enamel open face pocket watch, Cartier, French, circa 1925. Estimate: US$5,000 - 8,000 (€ 4,500 - 7,300). Photo: Bonhams.

the circular guilloche enamel dial, the bezel with Roman numerals set with rose-cut diamonds, the enamel back embellished with JS motif, set with similarly cut diamonds, with single-cut diamond detail to edge; accompanied by a monogrammed watch ribbon; dial signed Cartier; numbers indistinct, with French assay marks; estimated total diamond weight: 1.20 carats; mounted in platinum; width: 1 15/16in.

Property from the Estate of Joseph Schildkraut.

Note: Cartier began offering smoking requisites in the 1860s including matchboxes and cigarette holders, but the most fantastic designs appeared on the open expanse provided by cigarette cases that could be accompanied by matching lighters. At the turn of the century, these designs were often Russian in inspiration, with guilloche design, or carved from hardstone. By the 1920s, the impact of the technological and social changes of World War I influenced the design of both jewelry and objects. Gone were the swags, festoons, and heavy decoration of earlier eras replaced by an austere geometry-based vision that came to be known as Art Deco design.

In the 1920s Cartier produced astonishing works of jewelry design featuring the finest stones and materials, but they also produced fashionable objects to appeal to a broader range of consumers. Louis Cartier was savvy, and recognized the increase in the popularity of smoking that occurred after WWI and the company produced a fantastic array of smoking accouterments. Louis Cartier said, "We must make it our business to build up our inventory that responds to the mood of the public by producing articles which have a useful function but which are also decorated in the Cartier style."

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Joseph Schildkraut.

This remarkable elegant smoker's set and pocket watch features a sleek expanse of black accented with diamonds. The black and white palette is quintessential Art Deco design, as is the elegant monogram that is neatly tucked into a lozenge shape and provides a subtle sparkle of diamonds. Rudolph Schildkraut, a German silent film actor, chose this set for his son, Joseph Schildkraut, who was a Hollywood star, to mark the opening of Grauman's Chinese Theater in Hollywood on May 18, 1927. The two Schildkrauts were appearing together in the movie that premiered that night, Cecile B. DeMille's The King of Kings. This was one of the most spectacular openings in movie history and thousands of people lined Hollywood Boulevard to catch a glimpse of the stars. Joseph went on to win an Oscar for his performance in the Life of Emile Zola (1937) and he was nominated for a Golden Globe for his performance as Otto Frank in The Diary of Anne Frank (1959). He also won an Emmy in 1962 and he has a star on the Hollywood Walk or Fame. This unusual set, elegant in it's simplicity, unites the glamour of the Golden Age of Film and the best of Art Deco design.

Courtesy of Sarah Davis.