Lot 163. An Art Deco diamond, onyx and enamel brooch, attributed to Lacloche Frères, circa 1920 diamond, onyx and enamel brooch, attributed to Lacloche Frères, circa 1920. Estimate £ 30,000 - 50,000  (€ 35,000 - 58,000). Courtesy Bonham's.

Designed as a 'broche poigneé' (drawer handle), pavé-set throughout with old brilliant and single-cut diamonds and cabochon onyx studs, the pierced diamond terminals between bands of black enamel, surmounted by diamond briolettes, French assay marks, width 4.6cm, fitted case by Lacloche Fres, 15 Rue de la Paix, Paris, 2 New Bond St, London

Note: This brooch bears resemblance to the black and white 'panther skin' jewels, in diamonds and onyx, produced by Cartier during the 1920s. In particular, the 'Broche poigneé' from a design by Charles Jacqueau and made by Renault for Cartier Paris and sold in 1921 to the Maharajah of Patiala. See Rudoe, Judy, 'Cartier 1900-1939', London, 1997, No 171.

Leading jewellers at this time often did not employ in-house designers and used the same workshops to manufacture their jewels. Independent designers offered their models to different firms, sometimes selling identical designs to rival houses.

Bonham's. London Jewels, December 4, 2019 2:00 PM GMT