Christie's announces highlights included in the Magnificent Jewels sale in New York
NEW YORK, NY.- Christie’s New York announces the July 29th auction of Magnificent Jewels and the concurrent Jewels Online sale from July 22 to August 6/7. The auction includes a significant selection of colorless diamonds, colored diamonds, and gemstones, along with signed pieces by Belperron, Bulgari, Cartier, Graff, Harry Winston, JAR, Lacloche, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels. The sale will offer over 260 lots, with estimates ranging from $10,000 to $5,000,000.
The July 29th auction is led by impressive white diamonds, featuring a sensational diamond necklace suspending a pear-shaped diamond of 115.83 carats, F color, VVS1 clarity ($5,000,000-7,000,000). Colored diamonds also lead the sale, with a fancy intense blue diamond ring of 7.16 carats, Internally Flawless ($3,500,000 - 5,000,000); and a fancy intense yellow diamond ring of 33.65 carats, VS2 clarity ($525,000-625,000). Colored gemstones are also strongly represented with a Burma sapphire ring of 42.45 carats ($350,000–550,000); Colombian emerald ring of 35.77 carats ($300,000-500,000); and superb Art Deco sapphire and diamond sautoir, by Bulgari ($650,000–850,000).
Lot 264. A sensational diamond necklace suspending a pear-shaped diamond of 115.83 carats, F color, VVS1 clarity. Estimate USD 5,000,000 - USD 7,000,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Pear brilliant-cut diamond of 115.83 carats, thirty-one pear brilliant and pear modified brilliant-cut diamonds ranging from 5.50 to 0.97 carats, twenty smaller pear-shaped diamonds, platinum, 19 ins.
GIA, 2019, report no. 6028019: 115.83 carats, F color, VVS1 clarity
29 GIA and 2 GIA Dossiers, 1997-2016: 5.50 to 0.97 carats, E-J color, VVS2-SI1 clarity.
Lot 125. A fancy intense blue diamond ring of 7.16 carats, Internally Flawless. Estimate USD 3,500,000 - USD 5,000,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Fancy intense blue pear modified brilliant-cut diamond of 7.16 carats, platinum, ring size 6
GIA, 2020, report no. 2201939114: 7.16 carats, Fancy Intense Blue, natural color, Internally Flawless, Type IIb.
Lot 83. A fancy intense yellow diamond ring of 33.65 carats, VS2 clarity. Estimate USD 525,000 - USD 625,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Fancy intense yellow cut-cornered rectangular mixed-cut diamond of 33.65 carats, 18k gold, ring size 6
GIA, 2019, report no. 6204468875: 33.65 carats, Fancy Intense Yellow, natural color, VS2 clarity.
Lot 251. A Burma sapphire of 42.45 carats and diamond ring. Estimate USD 350,000 - USD 550,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Rectangular-cut sapphire of 42.45 carats, modified triangular brilliant-cut diamonds of 1.37 and 1.25 carats, platinum, ring size 8 ¾
SSEF, 2020, report no. 113773: 42.453 carats, Burma, no indications of heating
AGL, 2020, report no. 1108614: 42.45 carats, Classic Burma, no gemological evidence of heat or clarity enhancement, accompanied by an Appendix letter attesting to the quality and rarity of this sapphire
GIA, 2005, report no. 14341492: 1.37 carats, E color, SI1 clarity
GIA, 2005, report no. 14541479: 1.25 carats, E color, SI1 clarity.
Lot 59. An important Colombian emerald of 35.77 carats and diamond ring. Estimate USD 300,000 - USD 550,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Oval modified mixed-cut emerald of 35.77 carats, circular-cut diamonds, platinum, ring size 6.
AGL, 2020, report no. 1106471: 35.77 carats, Classic Colombia, insignificant clarity enhancement, traditional type
Gübelin, 2019, report no. 19100095: 35.77 carats, Colombia, indications of minor clarity enhancement.
Lot 252. A superb Art Deco sapphire and diamond sautoir, by Bulgari, circa 1930. Estimate USD 650,000 - USD 850,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Oval cabochon star sapphire, twenty-eight oval cabochon sapphires, circular, baguette, triangular and bullet-shaped diamonds, sautoir 28 ins., detachable pendant of 2 ¾ ins., necklace detachable and may be worn as two bracelets of 7 1/8 and 7 1/8 ins., platinum and white gold, circa 1930, signed Bulgari.
Gübelin, 2020, report no. 20032014: 29 Sapphires, large majority Sri Lanka, no indications of heating, accompanied by an Information Sheet attesting to the quality of the sapphires.
Provenance: Christie's, Geneva, 14 November 1985, lot 458
Christie's, Geneva, 13 November 2012, lot 306.
Literature: Cf. Amanda Triossi, Between Eternity and History, Bulgari, From 1884 to 2009, Milan, 2009, p. 58 for a necklace of similar design.
Note: A similar sapphire and diamond sautoir by Bulgari was part of the collection of Elizabeth Taylor offered at Christie’s, New York on 13 December 2011, where it achieved $5,906,500.
Private collections within the sale offer signed pieces by Belperron, Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Harry Winston, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co., Van Cleef & Arpels and Verdura incorporating gemstones of the highest quality with refined design. The Estate of Pauline Ireland contains over 50 jewels across the live and online sales and features a beryl, yellow sapphire and cultured pearl brooch by Verdura ($10,000-15,000); a diamond necklace and earrings ($20,000-30,000); and an Art Deco ruby and diamond jabot brooch by Cartier ($15,000-20,000). The Collection of James and Marilynn Alsdorf spans classic jewels reflecting their timeless style led by a single-stone pear-shaped diamond ring ($100,000-150,000); and The Collection of Gloria Manney spans important designs by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co., Raymond Yard, and Marcus & Co. which all feature opals, her favorite adornment, including a unique black opal, colored diamond and diamond fish brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels ($50,000-70,000).
Lot 5. The Estate of Pauline Ireland. Beryl, yellow sapphire and cultured pearl brooch by Verdura. Estimate USD 10,000 - USD 15,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Oval cabochon beryl, rectangular and cushion-cut yellow sapphires, cultured pearls, 18k gold, 3 ¼ ins., signed Verdura.
Note: Born the eldest of five daughters of Charles William Ireland and Jeanette Adams Ireland, Pauline was a passionate collector of beautiful objects. Her father made his fortune by taking his family company Birmingham Slag onto the public stock exchange through a merger in the 1950s and forming Vulcan Materials Company. By doing so, he turned this newly formed company into the largest producer of crushed stone in the United States, using this material to develop and pave America’s $50 billion interstate highway system during Dwight D. Eisenhower’s presidency.
Aside from his success in business, Charles W. Ireland and his second wife, Caroline P. Ireland, were important collectors in the fields of fine and decorative arts and great benefactors of the Birmingham Museum of Art, where portraits of each of them commissioned from Andy Warhol hang on display today. Pauline followed in her father’s footsteps in not only her deep appreciation of the arts, but also in making a difference where she could, volunteering her time and using her financial resources to help people and organizations she believed in including the Birmingham Museum of Art, the Alys Stephens Performing Arts Center, St. Luke’s Church, Advent Episcopal Church, and the Junior League in Birmingham.
From a young age Pauline was educated in the finest schools including Brooke Hill, Chatham Hall and Hollins College, where she continued to develop her love of cooking, dancing and interior design. After graduation, Pauline moved back to Birmingham, where she married and raised her two children, all while continually exploring her zest for life through travel and further self-education in art forms of all kinds. Pauline particularly loved wearing and collecting beautiful clothing, favoring designers such as Fendi, Bob Mackie, Jean Muir, Sonia Rykiel, and Valentino, which were purchased on regular trips to New York and Europe. Like most fashionable women, Pauline did not feel an outfit was truly complete without the proper jewelry.
Bold gold jewels set with gemstones were favorites with day wear, such as the beryl, yellow sapphire and cultured pearl brooch by Verdura (Lot 5), while predominantly diamond jewelry including the diamond necklace and earrings (Lot 1) and Art Deco emerald and diamond bracelet (Lot 3) were worn in the evening for formal occasions. In addition to the many wonderful jewels Pauline purchased for herself throughout the years, she also inherited several important pieces which descended in the family, including the Art Deco ruby and diamond jabot brooch by Cartier (Lot 2) as well as the citrine earrings and diamond and colored diamond cattail brooch, both by Suzanne Belperron (Lots 9 and 10).
This collection offers beautiful examples from some of the greatest American and European makers, reflecting Pauline’s superb taste, sense of fun, a love for color and appreciation for overall design. These jewels from her collection are offered with the hope that they will find new owners who will wear and appreciate them as much as Pauline did – a woman of impeccable style who lived life to the fullest.
Lot 1. The Estate of Pauline Ireland. Set of diamond jewelry. Estimate USD 20,000 - USD 30,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Circular and baguette-cut diamonds, platinum and 18k white gold, necklace 13 ins., earrings 1 1/8 ins.
Lot 2. The Estate of Pauline Ireland. Art Deco ruby and diamond jabot brooch by Cartier. Estimate USD 15,000 - USD 20,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Rectangular and square-cut rubies, old, single and baguette-cut diamonds, black enamel, platinum, 2 1/8 ins., circa 1925, signed Cartier, areas of enamel deficiency.
Lot 131. The Collection of James and Marilynn Alsdorf. Single-stone pear-shaped diamond ring and Eternity band. Estimate USD 100,000 - USD 150,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Pear brilliant-cut diamond of 5.64 carats, tapered baguette-cut diamonds, platinum, approximate ring size 4 ½; baguette-cut diamonds, platinum, approximate ring size 6.
GIA, 2020, report no. 5201844375: 5.64 carats, E color, VS2 clarity.
Lot 58. The Collection of Gloria Manney. Black opal, colored diamond and diamond fish brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels. Estimate USD 50,000 - USD 70,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Designed as a fish, oval-shaped black opal, fancy gray tapered baguette-cut diamond of 0.55 carat, fancy gray-blue cut-cornered rectangular step-cut diamond of 0.41 carat, fancy grayish blue cut-cornered trapezoid step-cut diamond of 0.17 carat, circular, single and marquise-cut diamonds and yellow diamonds of various hues, baguette and tapered baguette-cut grayish blue diamonds, platinum, 3 ½ ins., signed VCA, no. NY285715.
GIA, 2020, report no. 2205894105: 0.55 carat, Fancy Gray, natural color, VS2 clarity
GIA, 2020, report no. 6204894020: 0.41 carat, Fancy Gray-Blue, natural color, SI1 clarity
GIA, 2020, report no. 2203894129: 0.17 carat, Fancy Grayish Blue, natural color, SI2 clarity.
Lot 58. The Collection of Gloria Manney. Set of opal jewelry by Angela Cummings for Tiffany & Co.. Estimate USD 20,000 - USD 30,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Freeform opal plaques, 18k gold, necklace 16 ½ ins., earrings 1 ¼ ins., 1983, each signed Cummings, T & Co., blue Tiffany & Co. envelope case and outer box for necklace.
The Property of a Texas Collector contains over 20 jewels with significant diamonds, colored diamonds, colored stones, and signed pieces by David Webb and Bulgari, including a Colombian emerald ring of 16.79 carats ($200,000-300,000); a diamond bracelet ($120,000-180,000); and a coral, onyx and diamond bracelet by Bulgari ($40,000-60,000). The Property of a Lady comprises a collection of signed jewelry by Tiffany & Co., Taffin, Verdura, David Webb and four lots by JAR, including a pair of diamond and colored diamond ‘Trellis’ earrings ($150,000-200,000); a diamond Maltese cross brooch by David Webb ($40,000-60,000); and a pair of Antique diamond bracelets ($30,000-50,000).
Lot 195. A Colombian emerald of 16.79 carats and diamond ring. Estimate USD 200,000 - USD 300,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Cushion mixed-cut emerald of 16.79 carats, triangular-shaped diamonds, 18k gold, ring size 5 ¾.
AGL, 2020, report no. 1106863: Colombia, insignificant clarity enhancement, traditional type.
Lot 85. A diamond bracelet. Estimate USD 120,000 - USD 180,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Rectangular and square-cut diamonds, platinum, 7 1/8 ins.
Lot 184. Coral, onyx and diamond bracelet by Bulgari. Estimate USD 40,000 - USD 60,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Oval and triangular-shaped cabochon coral, rectangular and triangular-shaped cabochon onyx, circular-cut diamonds, 18k gold, 7 ins., signed Bulgari, maker's mark (Péry & Fils).
Lot 263. Moonstone, sapphire and diamond earrings, by JAR. Estimate USD 150,000 - USD 250,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Double cabochon pear-shaped moonstones, circular-cut sapphires, single-cut diamonds, 18k gold and silver, 2 ½ ins., unsigned, pink JAR case.
Lot 124. Pair of colored sapphire, spinel, diamond and colored diamond brooches, by JAR. Estimate USD 150,000 - USD 250,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Cushion-cut pink sapphire of 10.80 carats, cushion-cut spinel of 9.86 carats, circular-cut yellow, orange and brown diamonds, single-cut diamonds, 18k blackened and rose gold, 1 ½ ins., signed JAR 'Paris', pink JAR case.
Lot 263. Pair of diamond and colored diamond ‘Trellis’ earrings, by JAR. Estimate USD 150,000 - USD 200,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Circular-cut colored diamonds including hues of gray and black, single-cut diamonds, 18k gold, platinum and silver, 1 ½ ins., unsigned, pink JAR case.
Lot 262. Ebony, spinel and diamond bangle bracelet, by JAR. Estimate USD 60,000 - USD 80,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Ebony hoop, oval-cut spinels, pear and circular-cut diamonds, 18k gold (French marks), diameter 2 ½ ins., signed JAR 'Paris'.
Lot 257. Emerald, diamond and multi-gem ring, mounted by JAR. Estimate USD 40,000 - USD 60,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Cushion-cut emerald of 12.31 carats, circular-cut emeralds, tourmalines, tsavorite garnets and diamonds, platinum and silver, several gemstones deficient, ring size 3 ½, unsigned.
Lot 261. Carved ruby and ebony pendant-brooch, mounted by JAR. Estimate USD 15,000 - USD 20,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Circular-shaped carved ruby, sculpted ebony, 18k gold (French marks), pendant hoop at reverse, 3 ins., signed JAR, 'Paris'.
Lot 258. Diamond Maltese cross brooch by David Webb. Estimate USD 40,000 - USD 60,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Also leading the sale is the one-of-a-kind ‘Sky Tower’ necklace, by Anna Hu ($1,000,000-1,500,000), from the collection of an Important Private Collector. The necklace pairs the beauty of Western contemporary architecture with Chinese history and culture. Inspired by Pritzker Architecture Prize winner and distinguished French architect Jean Nouvel’s design of 53 West 53 located in the heart of New York City, the necklace centers upon a detachable brooch set with a fine jadeite plaque.
Lot 62. Jadeite, diamond and colored diamond ‘Sky Tower’ necklace, by Anna Hu. Estimate USD 1,000,000 - USD 1,500,000. © Christie's Images Ltd 2020.
Carved jadeite plaque of 36.50 x 41.00 mm, circular-cut diamonds and yellow diamonds, titanium and 18k white gold, central portion detachable and may be worn as a brooch, 16 ¼ ins., signed Anna Hu 'MoMA Paris'.
Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory, 2020, report no. KJ 101911: natural color Fei Cui (Jadeite Jade), without resin.
Note: This one-of-a-kind ‘Sky Tower’ Necklace, by Anna Hu embodies her unique and captivating creative practice – a vision that is rooted in New York, infused with Eastern and Western culture, and combines bold Western craftsmanship with Eastern aesthetics. This necklace incorporates details and techniques that reflect the beauty of Western contemporary art, while the centerpiece – a precious jadeite plaque – symbolizes the essence of Chinese culture and history.
This jadeite necklace is inspired by Pritzker Architecture Prize winner and distinguished French architect Jean Nouvel’s design of 53 West 53 located in the heart of New York City. Also known as the MoMA Expansion Tower, this structure is revered as a site of artistic excellence and according to critic Nicolai Ouroussoff, it is ‘the most architecturally significant addition to the Manhattan skyline in recent years.’ ANNA HU’s global headquarters will soon also reside at this prestigious address, with an official opening date projected for late 2020/early 2021.
Extending skyward above MoMA’s galleries, Nouvel’s adventurous use of angled lines over a glass façade manifests the unique elegance and sophistication of contemporary art. Completed in November 2019, this staggering skyscraper serves as a hallmark of a new era of artistic trends, brimming New York’s skyline with transformative possibilities.
The building’s distinctive multi-faceted conical nature inherits the stylistic legacy of New York’s classic high-rise towers. Inspired by the building’s tapered design and influenced by the powerfully aesthetic possibilities of the architectural structure, Anna Hu introduces these ideas into her conception of this jadeite necklace.
In order to embody contemporary art in her design, Anna focuses on the use of titanium, instead of gemstones alone. The structural majesty of the building is represented by intricate geometric shapes with angular triangular patterns, while the beauty of the towering glass façade is evoked through the masterful interweaving of clear strong lines that emulate purity and calmness. The centrally mounted jadeite pendant is detachable and may also be worn as a brooch. As tribute to the East, this pendant is shaped as a propitious shield from the ancient Chinese Royal Army that protects its wearer symbolically.
In addition, sophisticated details can even be found on the reverse of the necklace – engravings that are reminiscent of the auspicious clouds seen throughout Chinese culture and tradition, symbolizing blessings, joy, safety and health. These details reveal Anna’s ingenuity as she explores flowing vivid metallic curves set on the reverse of triangular titanium tiles – an incredible juxtaposition.
Lot 62 simultaneously pays homage to the spectacular position that Jean Nouvel’s MoMA Expansion Tower holds in the field of contemporary architecture while also portraying the beauty of Eastern culture and its history. In this timeless masterpiece, Anna proves that tradition is indeed immortal at what is a clear turning point in her own contemporary aesthetics.
The Jewels Online sale (July 22 to August 6/7) features a broad selection of fine jewels and iconic designs by Bulgari, Cartier, David Webb, Tiffany & Co., and Van Cleef & Arpels. Full exhibition of the live and online auctions Magnificent Jewels sale will be held at Christie’s 20 Rockefeller Center Galleries by appointment from 25 to 28 July.