Kashmir Sapphire with Historic American Provenance Leads Bonhams New York Jewels Sale
Property from a Prominent New England Family. Lot 177. A Superb 17.21 carats Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, circa 1910. Estimate US$ 500,000 - 800,000 (€ 420,000 - 670,000). Photo Bonhams.
The recent discovery of a rare Superb Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, circa 1910, estimated at $500,000–$800,000, in a private collection has delighted the descendants of a prominent American family. When Emily Waterfall, Los Angeles Head of Jewelry, first held the brooch, she knew it was something special. "We sent the sapphire to Switzerland for testing at the gem lab, and they confirmed it was not only a Kashmir sapphire, but Royal Blue, the rarest and most desirable velvety blue color. Picking up the phone to call the family and tell them how special this sapphire was that had been handed down through generations was a truly exceptional moment. The consignor remembers her mother wearing the brooch everywhere."
The gem has remained in the same family for more than 100 years. The Smith family, of Vermont, were politicians, entrepreneurs, farmers, philosophers, philanthropists and writers. The patriarch, Gov. J. Gregory Smith, led Vermont in the 1860s during the Civil War and was one of the founders of the Northern Pacific Railway. His wife, Ann Eliza Smith, was an American author whose father was a prominent figure in the Underground Railroad and used his home and other properties to hide freedom seekers. The son of Gov. J. Gregory Smith, Edward Curtis Smith, also served as the governor of Vermont and was the one to acquire this remarkable brooch for his wife, Anna Bailey James Smith. Passed down through generations, the jewel was later worn by Margaret Smith at Richard Nixon's inauguration. She wore the brooch frequently, never realizing the rare treasure she held.
Weighing 17.21 carats and determined to be of Kashmir origin, a sapphire of this size and color is exceptionally rare. Caroline Morrissey, Head of Sales, US, said "Sapphires from Kashmir are among the most highly prized gems in the world due to their rarity and their scarcity. They display a vivid blue hue that is unique to the region, so high and inaccessible it is referred to as 'above the snows.' No mining activity has taken place in Kashmir for many decades and the mine that yielded the finest specimens was largely exhausted by 1887. We are delighted to once again offer an exceptional Kashmir sapphire, with an unusual liveliness and a fascinating history."
Property from a Prominent New England Family. Lot 177. A Superb 17.21 carats Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond Brooch, circa 1910. Estimate US$ 500,000 - 800,000 (€ 420,000 - 670,000). Photo Bonhams.
Centering a cushion-shaped mixed-cut sapphire, weighing 17.21 carats, flanked by marquise-shaped and pear-shaped table-cut diamonds; estimated total diamond weight 4.80 carats, mounted in platinum, length 1 7/8 in.
Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 20102063, dated 27 October 2020, stating that the sapphire, weighing 17.21 carats, is Royal Blue color, of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating (NTE).
Together with an appendix letter from Gübelin stating that the sapphire, 'possesses a richly saturated and homogeneous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency, and a finely proportioned cut. In addition, this remarkable gemstone has been spared of thermal treatment. Such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural Kashmir sapphires of this size.'
Accompanied by AGL report no. 1110484, dated 21 October 2020, stating that the sapphire, weighing 17.21 carats, is of Kashmir origin, no geological evidence of heat enhancement and no clarity enhancement.
Note: The rich blue color of a sapphire has long been coveted and even more fabled are the stones from the Kashmir mines in India. Since Ancient Greek and Roman times, the stone has been thought to protect its owners from harm. On an expedition through the Gobi Desert, Marco Polo used sapphires as calling cards. Clergy members in the Middle Ages wore sapphires as a symbol of heaven. Some of the most exquisite sapphires have adorned royalty in all corners of the world. From India to Europe, royal jewelry collections contain incredibly rare sapphires of significant size and legendary origin. While various regions of the world have produced sapphires, the most significant were mined for a handful of years after a landslide in the Himalaya mountains of Kashmir revealed unusually bright blue stones.
At first, locals traded the stones for salt and other goods but by 1881 the Maharajah of Kashmir, recognizing their beauty, took control of the mines and claimed the stones, preventing all private trading. The original mine operated for only six years, and while small deposits have occasionally been discovered, the vast majority of Kashmir sapphires came from the original mine. The sole source of a Kashmir sapphire today is to purchase a stone from the past.
This exquisite stone, set in a brooch dating from the turn of the century, is an elegant mix of a velvety blue sapphire of exceptional size and color with a fascinating origin. Weighing 17.21 carats and determined to be of Kashmir origin, a sapphire of this size and color is exceptionally rare.
The Swiss gemological lab Gübelin determined it to be of Royal Blue color, describing the stone as possessing, "a richly saturated and homogenous colour, combined with a high degree of transparency, and a finely proportioned cut. In addition, this remarkable gemstone has been spared of thermal treatment. Such a combination of characteristics is rare in natural Kashmir sapphire of this size."
Having remained in the same family for over a century, a Kashmir sapphire of this size, quality and heritage is exceptionally rare and Bonhams is honored to be offering it for sale.
Bonhams has a strong track record with Kashmir sapphires, most recently an unmounted Kashmir sapphire of 9.23ct sold in the July 28 New York Jewels sale for $1,244,075 against an estimate of US$475,000–$775,000.
Another Notable American Family:
Also in the same family for a century, property from the collection of Grace Underwood Barton, thus by descent includes A Diamond Ring, (5.80 carats E VS1 pear shape type IIA), $80,000-100,000, and a Carved Emerald and Diamond Pendant by Georges Le Saché, French, circa 1915 (Le Saché created jewels for Cartier, Tiffany, Boucheron and other great houses), estimated at $40,000–$60,000. Barton had ties to two important American families. Her first husband, John T. Underwood, founded the Underwood Typewriter Company in 1874. They manufactured ribbons, carbon paper, and typewriters in New York City and produced the first modern typewriter, the Underwood Number 5, which sold more than 2 million units in the 1920s, more than all other typewriters combined. After he passed, she married C. Vanderbilt Barton, a grandnephew of his namesake, Cornelius Vanderbilt.
Property from the Collection of Grace Underwood Barton, Thus by Descent. Lot 76. A Carved Emerald and Diamond Pendant by Georges Le Saché, French, circa 1915. Estimate US$ 40,000 - 60,000 (€ 34,000 - 51,000). Photo Bonhams.
Designed as a carved emerald of foliate motif, applied at the front with rose-cut diamonds, supported by a bail set with old European-cut diamonds; accompanied by an original fitted box; mounted in 18k gold; with French assay mark and maker's mark for Georges Le Saché; length 2 in.
Note: Georges Le Saché was a designer and manufacturer in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. A skilled artist, his first love was painting, spending many hours in the company of William-Aldolphe Bouguereau and other artists of his time. Choosing to focus on the decorative arts, he gained a passion for jewelry and became a designer for the jeweler Lucien Falize. The mentorship and friendship with Falize helped Le Saché eventually open his own business. Running his own workshop for over thirty years, he created pieces for some of the most prominent jewelry houses including Cartier, Boucheron and Tiffany & Co.
Property from the Collection of Grace Underwood Barton, Thus by Descent. Lot 77. A 5.80 carats E VS1 pear shape type IIA Diamond Ring. Estimate US$ 80,000 - 100,000 (€ 67,000 - 84,000). Photo Bonhams.
Centering an old pear-shaped brilliant-cut diamond, weighing approximately 5.80 carats, flanked by baguette-cut diamonds, further enhanced by the rose-cut diamond gallery; mounted in platinum; size 8 1/4
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2213263802, stating that the diamond, weighing 5.80 carats, is type IIa, E color, VS1 clarity.
Together with a diamond type classification stating that the diamond, "has been determined to be a type IIa diamond. Type IIa diamonds are the most chemically pure type of diamond and often have exceptional optical transparency."
A New York Yankees Jewel
Considered one of the greatest baseball teams of all time, the 1950s New York Yankees were at the pinnacle their success, winning six World Series championships and eight American League pennants in that decade alone. Andy Carey made his major league debut with the Yankees in 1952, and by 1955, he was the Yankees starting third baseman and led the American League in triples. That year Carey married Lucy Marlow, a 22-year-old Hollywood starlet. The couple spent their honeymoon with the Yankees on a tour of Hawaii and Japan, alongside other baseball legends including Yogi Berra, Whitey Ford and Mickey Mantle. Carey purchased a Charm Bracelet, estimated at $2,500–$3,500, filled with Yankees charms for his bride on that trip, commemorating the unforgettable years which defined a decade of baseball and American culture.
The Estates of Lucy Marlow and Andy Carey. Lot 54. A Charm Bracelet. Estimate US$ 2,500 - 3,500 (€ 2,100 - 3,000). Photo: Bonhams.
Composed of circular and openwork gold links, suspending six Yankees memorabilia charms; bracelet mounted in 14k gold; length 14 in.
Note: Considered one of the greatest baseball teams of all time, the 1950's New York Yankees were at the pinnacle their success, winning six World Series championships and eight American League pennants in that decade alone. Andy Carey made his major league debut with the Yankees in 1952, and by 1955, he was the Yankees starting third baseman and led the American League in triples. That year Carey married Lucy Marlow, a 22-year-old Hollywood starlet. The couple spent their honeymoon with the Yankees on a tour of Hawaii and Japan, alongside other baseball legends including Yogi Berra, Whitey Ford and Mickey Mantle. Carey gifted his wife this unique charm bracelet, commemorating these unforgettable years which defined a decade of baseball and American culture.
Signed Jewels & Colored Stones
New York Jewels offers an impressive selection of both vintage and contemporary jewelry and gemstones for the collector and wearer alike. The sale includes several important signed jewels, including an unusual Diamond and Gem-set Horse Bangle, Bulgari, circa 1960, estimated at $30,000–$50,000, author and Bulgari specialist Amanda Triossi said of the bangle "Bulgari's confronted overlapping horse head bangle is probably one of the first of its kind, it is most likely unique and thanks to its restrained use of gemstones it is also very wearable."
Lot 160. A Diamond and Gem-set Horse Bangle, Bulgari, circa 1960. Estimate US$ 30,000 - 50,000 (€ 25,000 - 42,000). Photo Bonhams.
The terminals designed as opposing horse heads, set with marquise-shaped ruby and sapphire eyes, the mane and harness decorated with single-cut diamonds, further enhanced by cabochon rubies and sapphires; signed Bulgari; accompanied by a signed box; estimated total diamond weight 8.60 carats; mounted in 18k gold; circumference 6 in.
Note: In the history of jewels in the Western world, gold open hoop bangles with twin animal heads, one each end, are not a novelty. Extremely refined examples date from the sixth century BC onwards and their popularity did not wane for a number of centuries thereafter. This was followed by a long hiatus which ended in the second half of the 19th century when all that was archaeological came back in vogue. Interestingly both in antiquity and in the 19th century the most common animal heads decorating penannular bangles were those of rams and lions. The latter in particular, beside their decorative function, were also apotropaic, that is to say were meant to ward off evil and probably infuse the wearer with power. However there are some less known extremely sophisticated bangles made in Dacia, nowadays Romania, dating to the last centuries BC and first AD that feature finials with horse heads complete with bridals.
In the 20th century, rigid bangles in general gained great popularity; especially in the '20s when they became one of the ideal jewels to adorn the bared arms following the dispensation of long gloves for evening wear. Not surprisingly, from this time onwards, important jewelry houses experimented with their variation of bangles with zoomorphic head finials. One of the first and most celebrated of such bracelets is the 1928 Chimera bangle by Cartier acquired by opera singer Ganna Walska, renowned for her styles and jewels. This bangle is formed of two confronted stylized coral exotic dragon heads of Indian - Chinese inspiration that open thanks to the rotation of one the heads. What is interesting to note however is that, although numerous jewelers including Bulgari explored the decorative potential of various animal heads as bangle finials, these were mainly limited to fantastical dragon-like creatures, powerful lions, leopards and tigers, while horse heads were mostly ignored. This changed in the early '60s when surprisingly on both sides of the Atlantic jewelers began to include the horse head as a zoomorphic bangle decoration. It was in 1964 when American jeweler David Webb began to add to his jeweled enamel menagerie his first single and then twin horse bracelets in polychrome enamels. These soon became highly fashionable and were rapidly replicated in a great variety of version.
Lot 160, offered now for sale, was designed by Bulgari at approximately the same time as the first horse bangles by Webb and it was sold, shortly after, to a passionate American jewelry collector. What distinguishes the Bulgari bangle from the ancient prototypes and the more recent American examples is the fact that the double horse heads, overlap on top of the wrist rather than being arranged head to head facing one another. Furthermore the Bulgari version was not extensively repeated making it a fairly unique house jewel.
The textured gold Bulgari bangle is particularly charming for the expressive features of the horse heads respectively with a ruby and a sapphire eye, their attentive pushed forward ears, their slightly flared nostrils and their diamond-set furled manes and harnesses each embellished by a cabochon ruby and a sapphire stylized rosette.
What inspired the famous Roman jewelry house to be among the first jewelers to make use of two elegant equine heads to decorated bangle finials is difficult to pinpoint. Could it have been prompted by the then popular images of horses with flowing manes painted by Italian artist Giorgio de Chirico (1888-1978)? Or was it the image of the famous chariot race scene with galloping horses in the popular film Benhur (1961) starring Charlton Heston? Or possibly the fame of the thoroughbred Ribot (1952-1972), the British-bred and Italian-trained racehorse who is still considered one of the top-rated racehorses of all times? Whatever inspired the design, Bulgari's confronted overlapping horse head bangle is probably one of the first of its kind, it is most likely unique and thanks to its restrained use of gemstones it is also very wearable.
Also of note are a Set of Carved Jade, Enamel, Coral, Diamond and Gem-set Foo Dog Boxes, David Webb, estimated at $100,000–200,000, A Diamond Bracelet, Schlumberger Studios for Tiffany & Co. estimated at $25,000–$45,000, and an Attractive Fancy Colored Diamond and Diamond Ring, (2.32 carats fancy intense orangey pink SI1), estimated at $275,000-$375,000.
Lot 94. A Set of Carved Jade, Enamel, Coral, Diamond and Gem-set Foo Dog Boxes, David Webb. Estimate US$ 100,000 - 200,000 (€ 84,000 - 170,000). Photo Bonhams.
Each designed as a lid top box, modeled as a foo dog, the body composed of carved jade, adorned with cabochon emeralds and carved coral, applied with black and green enamel, the eyes set with cabochon rubies, further enhanced by rose-cut diamonds; signed David Webb, no. CS94 and CS174; mounted in 18k gold; length 4 3/4 in.
Accompanied by a David Webb certificate of authenticity, dated 19 October 2020.
Note: Imperial guardian lions, commonly known as foo dogs, are traditional Chinese symbols of protection. For thousands of years, pairs have been placed in the entrances of temples, government buildings, tombs and the homes of the elite, standing guard and displaying wealth and power. These exceptional David Webb foo dog boxes unify the rich Chinese tradition with the aesthetic sumptuousness characteristic of Webb's work.
Lot 41. A Diamond Bracelet, Schlumberger Studios for Tiffany & Co. Estimate US$ 25,000–$45,000 (€ 21,000 - 38,000). Photo Bonhams.
The flexible band composed of foliate and acorn motifs, set with round brilliant-cut diamonds; signed Schlumberger Studios, Tiffany & Co.; estimated total diamond weight 15.00 carats; mounted in 18k gold; length 6 5/8 in.
Lot 148. An Attractive 2.32 carats Fancy Intense Orangey Pink SI1 Diamond and Diamond Ring. Estimate US$ 275,000-$375,000 (€ 230,000 - 320,000). Photo Bonhams.
Centering a rectangular modified brilliant-cut fancy intense orangy pink diamond, weighing approximately 2.32 carats, framed and accented by round brilliant-cut diamonds; estimated total diamond weight 1.55 carats; mounted in platinum; size 6
Accompanied by GIA report no. 2121499625, dated 25 August 2010, stating that the diamond, weighing 2.32 carats, is Fancy Intense Orangy Pink, natural color, SI1 clarity.