Lot 643. An impressive Art deco diamond bracelet, Cartier, Paris. Estimate HK$ 1,200,000 - 2,000,000 (€ 130,000 - 220,000). Photo: Bonhams.
Designed as a trailing vine set throughout with old European-cut diamonds and four pear-shaped diamonds set at intervals, interspersed with baguette, French and square-cut diamond detail; signed Cartier, Paris, no. 9124B, with French assay marks; estimated total diamond weight 24.17 carats; length 8.0cm; accompanied by a signed box.
Accompanied by GIA report #5212045483, dated 17 July 2020, stating that the diamond weighing 3.21 carats is E colour, SI1 clarity.
Accompanied by GIA report #1216045482, dated 17 July 2020, stating that the diamond weighing 1.50 carats is F colour, VS1 clarity.
Accompanied by GIA report #5201986210, dated 17 July 2020, stating that the diamond weighing 1.41 carats is D colour, VS1 clarity.
Note: Cartier jewelry from the 1920s is some of the most beautiful and important ever made. Representing the joy and energy of the era, as well as the fascination with exotic decorative motifs, the most iconic motif of Cartier Art Deco is the foliate meandering vine. The designs, known as Tutti Frutti, typically feature brightly colored gemstones and we have never before seen a variation completed in white diamonds.
In the late 1920s, all-white jewelry became popular and diamond bracelets could be worn alone or stacked on the wrist for effect. In this bracelet, the continuous vine is set not with gemstone flowers, but with a geometric array of diamonds. Diamond pave forms the vine and leaves, while round and baguette-cuts take the place of flowers. The pear-shaped diamonds "fruits" rise slightly above the design adding depth and a sculptural effect. This rare and exquisite bracelet is probably unique, and most similar to a diamond and conch pearl vine bracelet created for Queen Victoria Eugenia of Spain. This supremely important work captures the joy, beauty, and unparalleled workmanship of the best Art Deco jewels.
Bonhams. Hong Kong Jewels and Jadeite, Hong Kong, 28 November 2020