Towel with rich embroidery of silk, silver threads and gold lantern (detail), Turkey, 18th/19th century. © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst / Claus Uhlendorf

BERLIN - This special presentation in the Pergamonmuseum’s book art cabinet affords a glimpse into one of the strands in the rich textile tradition of the Ottoman Empire: alongside carpets and woven fabrics, lesser-known embroideries also played a major role in this tradition, predominantly in domestic contexts in urban areas. These pieces formed part of the dowry of every young woman and were cared for like treasures.

This exhibition showcases towels, serviettes and sashes from the 16th to the 19th century from the Borg Collection. These exquisite works were generally produced in domestic settings, though a number of the particularly intricate embroideries were produced in workshops by professional embroiderers.

Towel with intricate embroidery in silk, silver thread and goldwork, Turkey, 18th/19th century © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst / Claus Uhlendorf

Embroideries with Prestige

The embroideries were made on a rectangular frame on four legs, in front of which the embroiderers would sit on the floor. Finely woven fabrics made of silk, linen and cotton were used to make the works. The embroidery threads were coloured with natural dyes and were usually made of silk, and were sometimes embellished with silver or gold thread. Usually, a border was embroidered on the shorter ends of the fabric. The embroideries are so finely wrought that they look identical from both sides, meaning there is no front and back. We can assume that these fine towels and serviettes have never been used. What is certain, though, is that their primary role was as part of a bride’s dowry, and they would have been placed on display in this function.

Towel with intricate embroidery in silk, silver thread and goldwork, detail, Turkey, 18th/19th century © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst / Claus Uhlendorf

Tradition and Variation

Serviette with embroidered pommegranate and hyacinth patterns, Turkey, 2nd half 18th century © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst / Claus Uhlendorf

Serviette with embroidered pommegranate and hyacinth patterns, detail, Turkey, 2nd half 18th century © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst / Claus Uhlendorf

Towel with embroidered depictions of houses and gardens, Turkey, late 18th century © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst / Claus Uhlendorf

Towel with embroidered depictions of houses and gardens, detail, Turkey, late 18th century © Staatliche Museen zu Berlin, Museum für Islamische Kunst / Claus Uhlendorf