17 mars 2016
Cristobal Balenciaga, Coat, 1963. Ivory wool twill; ten buttons at the front. Inventory Number(s): AC6716 90-16-17 ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Takashi Hatakeyama Label: BALENCIAGA 10, AVENUE GEORGE V. PARIS. The gentle curve of the shoulder line and voluminous impression given by this cape coat represent a new form for dress shape. This shape is made possible through an innovative concept for the garment's composition, in which the front and back of the cape, cut as continuations of... [Lire la suite]
01 mars 2016
Jean-Philippe Worth, Coat, 1910s, Worth. Dark red velvet; beige silk satin lining; kimono neckline; looped "kumihimo" (Japanese cord)-like decoration; tassel with beading. AC2880 79-27-1 ©The Kyoto Costume Institute, photo by Kazumi Kurigami This is an interesting example in which a pulled-back collar, a kimono-style overlap, and loose drapes for the lower part of the back resembling the appearance of a kimono are effectively expressed by Western-style three-dimensional cutting.At the end of the 19th century... [Lire la suite]
01 janvier 2016
Callot Soeurs (French, active 1895–1937), Coat, 1920s, silk. Gift of Mrs. William Bamberger, 1940 (C.I.40.37.2a, b). The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
11 septembre 2015
Coat, House of Chanel, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel, 1927. The convergence of Art Deco line, the modernist impulse to facilitate pure form, and Japonisme’s potential to offer a vocabulary of untailored wrapping shapes was more than fortuitous. Chanel uses a French ombré textile with pattern sources from the Japanese kimono but brings to it the ethos of chaste minimalism. As Western fashion designers discovered from the East that untailored lengths of fabric could constitute modern dress, the cylinder and the textile... [Lire la suite]
12 août 2015
Cristobal Balenciaga (French, founded 1949), Coat, Fall 1950. Multicolored velvet. Gift of Jerome Zipkin.86.142.3. The Museum at FIT 2012 © The Museum at FIT. Balenciaga was a true sculptor in fabric, a master of cut and construction whose work approached pure form. Simple lines (the product of much subtlety and originality in cut) were executed in luxurious materials - in this case, broken stripes of gray, brown, tan, and black silk velvet. A reserved and intensely private man, Balenciaga has always been... [Lire la suite]
12 août 2015
Cristobal Balenciaga (French, founded 1949), Coat, Fall 1950. Beige wool duvetyn. Gift of Doris Duke.72.81.23. The Museum at FIT 2012 © The Museum at FIT. The simplicity of Balenciaga's most innovative designs is perfectly realized in this garment. The visible folds are formed and anchored to a ribbon that runs inside the upper part of each sleeve, from the neckline to cuff, and the folds are tacked to the ribbon at approximately four inch intervals. Despite its dramatic effect, the construction is a simple... [Lire la suite]
08 avril 2015
Paul Poiret (French, 1879-1944), Coat, 1922. Silk velvet, fur, metallic silk embroidery, and faux pearls. Length: 147.3 cm (58 inches). Gift of the Estate of Mrs. Edith Stuyvesant Vanderbilt Gerry 59.031.9. RISD Museum, Providence, RI. PROVIDENCE, RI.- These garments dating from 1922 to the late 1930s share two traits: they were worn by Edith Stuyvesant Dresser Vanderbilt Gerry (1873–1958) and they incorporate gold in the form of lamé, metallic pigments, and actual metal threads. During the period... [Lire la suite]
22 juillet 2014
Coat © Copyright 2014 The JoannaJohn Collection. Long Patti Jacket © Copyright 2014 The JoannaJohn Collection. Coat © Copyright 2014 The JoannaJohn Collection. Long Anatoli Jacket © Copyright 2014 The JoannaJohn Collection. Coat © Copyright 2014 The JoannaJohn Collection. Caftan © Copyright 2014 The JoannaJohn Collection. Jacket © Copyright 2014 The JoannaJohn Collection. I bought one of them in Lisboa as a robe de chambre. Photos courtesy The JoannaJohn Collection.
12 octobre 2013
Coat, 1800–1943, Chinese, silk, metal. Length: 45 1/2 in. (115.6 cm). Gift of Mrs. John Jay Whitehead, 1943. C.I.43.13.4 © 2000–2013 The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
12 octobre 2013
Coat, 1800–1943, Chinese, silk, metal. Length: 46 in. (116.8 cm). Gift of Mrs. John Jay Whitehead, 1943. C.I.43.13.1. © 2000–2013 The Metropolitan Museum of Art.