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31 mars 2016

Christie's Geneva to offer jewels from the collection of H.S.H Gabriela Princess zu Leiningen

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Lot 346. Property of H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen. The Pohl Diamond. An exceptional diamond ring, by Cartier. A rectangular-cut D, VVS1, potentially Internally Flawless diamond or approximately 36.09 carats, mounted by Cartier. Estimate: $3,800,000-5,500,000Price realised CHF 4,309,000Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

GENEVA.- Christie’s will present ‘Superb Jewels from the Collection of H.S.H. Gabriela Princess zu Leiningen’ for sale in Geneva. Featuring 46 lots, selected from her unique and important collection, and estimated to realize in excess of US$15 million, her magnificent jewels represent the eye of a passionate jewellery collector, with prestigious signatures such as Cartier, Schlumberger, Boucheron, Tiffany & Co, and Van Cleef & Arpels. They give collectors an exclusive glimpse of the Princess’s world, a colourful active life with beautiful memories. 

Sophisticated and classically beautiful, H.S.H. Gabriela Princess zu Leiningen’s extensive collection is a true reflection of its owner. A woman of charisma, wisdom, elegance and above all, joy. Each jewel represents a special moment in her life and the happiness she experienced at the time. We are honored to present superb jewels from her collection, and extend to all the wonderful karma it brings.” --François Curiel, Chairman Christie’s Asia Pacific 

THE POHL DIAMOND 
The superb jewels of H.S.H. Gabriela Princess zu Leiningen feature some of the finest gemstones collectors could dream of. The highlight is the 36 carat D color Pohl diamond. Mined in 1934 as a 287 carat rough stone, it was the first major diamond to be polished in America and was sold in 1943 to Bernice Chrysler Garbisch of the Chrysler Family. In 1998 it was acquired for the Princess at Cartier. This famous diamond is offered for an estimate of US$3,800,000-5,500,000. 

MAGNIFICENT JEWELS BY CARTIER 
More jewels by Cartier include a sensational emerald and diamond necklace suspending a richly coloured Colombian emerald of almost 40 carats, (US$2,500,000-3,500,000). Princess Gabriela was photographed on many occasions wearing the necklace and the matching earrings, one of them being at the official dinner preceding the wedding of Prince Felipe of Spain and Letizia Ortiz in Madrid, in 2004. 

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Lot 345. H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen's magnificent Colombian emerald and diamond necklace, by Cartier. The detachable cushion-shaped emerald pendant, weighing approximately 39.70 carats. Estimate: $2,500,000-3,500,000Price realised CHF 2,825,000Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

The detachable cushion-shaped emerald pendant, weighing approximately 39.70 carats, to the interchangeable surmount alternately-set with a marquise-cut diamond, weighing approximately 5.14 carats, or a rectangular-cut diamond, weighing approximately 7.50 carats, suspended from the octagonal step-cut diamond necklace, interspersed with five octagonal step-cut emeralds, weighing approximately 6.03, 3.10, 3.02, 2.23 and 2.06 carats, 2000, pendant 5.0 cm, necklace 38.0 cm, mounted in platinum and gold, in red leather Cartier case. Signed Cartier, no. 849868

Accompanied by report no. 84906 dated 11 March 2016 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating the origin of the emeralds is Colombia, with minor amount of oil.

Report no. 6177530016 dated 17 March 2016 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 5.14 carat diamond is E colour, VVS1 clarity; also with a working diagram indicating that the clarity of the diamond is potentially Internally Flawless, and a Diamond Type Classification letter stating that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa. 

Report no. 2171530019 dated 15 March 2016 from the GIA Gemological Institute of America stating that the 7.50 carat diamond is D colour, Internally Flawless clarity, and a Diamond Type Classification letter stating that the diamond has been determined to be Type IIa.

Further accompanied by copy of an invoice dated 3 March 2000 from Cartier.

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Princess Gabriela zu Leiningen, wearing the magnificent emerald and diamond necklace, by Cartier.

Another magnificent parure, also by Cartier, is set with rare Burmese sapphires. The V-shaped necklace suspends a 55 carat cushion-shaped sapphire (US$2,000,000-3,000,000) and is complemented by a pair of ear pendants, with diamond-set star tops and pear-shaped sapphire pendants, each weighing approximately 25 carats (US$600,000-800,000). 

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Lot 335. H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen's ruby and diamond novelty brooch, by Cartier. Modelled as a violin, the calibré-cut ruby belly with diamond fingerboard and tailpiece, to the pavé-set diamond ribs, one side opening to reveal a watch with circular dial, Roman numerals and quartz movement, together with its bow, 1989, violin 6.8 cm, bow 8.0 cm, mounted in gold. Estimate: $10,000-15,000Price realised CHF 269,000Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

Modelled as a violin, the calibré-cut ruby belly with diamond fingerboard and tailpiece, to the pavé-set diamond ribs, one side opening to reveal a watch with circular dial, Roman numerals and quartz movement, together with its bow, 1989, violin 6.8 cm, bow 8.0 cm, mounted in platinum and gold. Violin signed Cartier, no. 001; bow unsigned.

Accompanied by copy of an invoice dated 5 January 1990 from Cartier.

Provenance: H.H. Begum Sultan Mohamed Shah Aga Khan III

The cultured pearl parure 
This very elegant cultured pearl and diamond fringe necklace, belonged to H.H. Begum Om Habibeh Aga Khan (1906-2000), the wife of H.H. Sultan Mohammed Shah, Aga Khan III. When it entered the collection of Princess Gabriela, a matching pair of ear pendants and a bangle were commissioned to Van Cleef & Arpels in order to wear them as a complete parure (US$200,000-300,000). 

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Lot 314. H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen's five-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace. Estimate: $350,000-500,000Price realised CHF 425,000Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

The strands composed of eighty-three, ninety, ninety-five, ninety-seven and one hundred and three graduated natural pearls, measuring approximately 11.05 to 4.90 mm, with diamond roundel spacers and old-cut diamond bar clasp, detachable to be worn as a two and three-strand separate necklaces, shortest row 66.0 cm, mounted in gold.

Accompanied by report no. 84909 dated 11 March 2016 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating that the 468 pearls are saltwater natural pearls.

ProvenanceChristie's London, 27 September 2001, Lot 43

RUBY AND DIAMOND MYSTERY-SET JEWELLERY BY VAN CLEEF & ARPELS

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Lot 302. H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen's  pair of 'Mystery-Set' ruby and diamond 'Poppy' earrings, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Each designed as a mystery-set ruby poppy flower, centering a circular-cut diamond cluster pistil, to the two diamond-set leaves, 3.6 cm, with French assay marks for platinum and gold. Estimate: $100,000-150,000Price realised CHF 509,000Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

Each designed as a mystery-set ruby poppy flower, centering a circular-cut diamond cluster pistil, to the two diamond-set leaves, 3.6 cm, with French assay marks for platinum and gold. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 23670.

Accompanied by copy of a valuation dated 17 January 2000 from Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Lot 303. H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen's  'Mystery-Set' ruby and diamond flower brooch, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Designed as a mystery-set ruby flower, centering a circular-cut diamond cluster pistil, 6.3 cm, with French assay marks for gold, in beige suede Van Cleef & Arpels case. Estimate: $150,000-200,000. Price realised CHF 473,000Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

Designed as a mystery-set ruby flower, centering a circular-cut diamond cluster pistil, 6.3 cm, mounted in platinum and gold, in beige suede Van Cleef & Arpels case. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 23461. 

Accompanied by copy of a valuation dated 17 January 2000 from Van Cleef & Arpels.

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Lot 301. H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen's  'Mystery-Set' ruby and diamond ring, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Of crossover design, one side mystery-set with rubies, one side pavé-set with diamonds, size 5 ½, with French assay marks for platinum and gold, in grey suede Van Cleef & Arpels case. Estimate: $40,000-60,000Price realised CHF 62,500. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

Of crossover design, one side mystery-set with rubies, one side pavé-set with diamonds, size 5 ½, with French assay marks for platinum and gold, in grey suede Van Cleef & Arpels case. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 24049. 

Accompanied by copy of a valuation dated 17 January 2000 from Van Cleef & Arpels.

H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen 
Born to an entrepreneurial and philanthropic German family, Princess Gabriela, a trained lawyer, has been involved in educational, health and cultural development programs throughout her life. 

In 2004, the Princess founded the Princess Inaara Foundation. This aid organization is committed to supporting projects in both Germany and in developing countries, striving to protect and ameliorate the rights of women and children in need, often through microcredit projects. She campaigns for greater understanding and tolerance across diverse cultures, whilst also being committed to fighting the HIV/AIDS epidemic, and continues to serve as a member of the Board of Trustees for the German AIDS Foundation.

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Princess Gabriela zu Leiningen wearing her ‘Persepolis’ necklace by Cartier.

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Lot 331. H.S.H. Gabriela Princess Zu Leiningen's multi-gem 'Persepolis' necklace and a pair of 'Persane' earrings, by Cartier. Estimate CHF 700,000 - CHF 1,000,000Price realised CHF 1,085,000Photo: Christie's Images Ltd 2016.

 

 The 'Persepolis' fringe necklace set to the front with two lines of alternately-set oval cabochon emeralds and oval-cut sapphires, the second line interspersed with rose-cut diamonds, suspending thirteen drops set with vari-cut emeralds, oval-cut sapphires, rose-cut diamonds and cultured pearls, to the similarly-set clasp and sapphire and emerald bead torsade necklace, together with a pair of 'Persane' earpendants, each cabochon emerald drop suspended from a briolette-cut diamond and pearl line to the cultured pearl top, 2001, necklace 38.0 cm, earrings 6.5 cm, mounted in platinum and gold, the necklace in red leather Cartier case. Signed Cartier, nos. 754436 (necklace) and 772312 (earrings)

Accompanied by report no. 84905 dated 15 March 2016 from the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute stating the origin of the emeralds is Colombia (except 2 from Zambia and 1 from Zimbabwe), with minor to moderate amount of oil (except 1 with no oil) and that the origin of the sapphires is Ceylon, with no indications of heating 

Further accompanied by copy of an invoice dated 16 July 2001 from Cartier. 

The pearls have not been tested for natural origin.

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