John Graff, Gold Hunter Case with Monogram and Coat of Arms of the Nawab of Bhawalpur Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi IV, Circa 1890, Switzerland. Enamel, rubies and diamonds, 18k gold. Diameter: 54 mm. PRAHLAD BUBBAR at TEFAF 2024. © 2024 TEFAF

Complications: Perpetual calendar, Moon phase and split second chronograph. Minute repeater.
Dial set with rubies and diamonds. 18k gold. Diameter: 54 mm.
Portrait of the Nawab signed JG. John Graff. The foremost Swiss portrait painter in enamels.
Retailed by Marcks and Co Bombay and Poona.

Provenance: The Nawab of Bhawalpur Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi IV.
Acquired from the above by descent, 1970s.
Private collection, UK.

Signature: John Graff

This extraordinary Minute Repeating pocket watch is a historically important timepiece and masterpiece of the horological arts. The watch features in its case the portrait of the Nawab of Bhawalpur, Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi IV, and is signed JG. John Graff (1836-1902), the foremost Swiss portrait painter in enamels of the late 19th century.

The front of the case is superbly ornamented with the initials SMKA (Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abassi) and each of the letters, outlined in gold, is inset with precious stones – the letters S and M are inset with diamonds while the letter K is inset with emeralds and A with Burmese rubies. These rest on a background of red champlevé enamel. The circular case cover is further ornamented along its internal diameter with a sequence of diamonds at each of the hourly points and, between these can be seen a sequence of two emeralds flanking a central ruby. Beyond this circular border, a second circular register features a spectacular arrangement of diamonds.
The back of the case is decorated with the official blazon of the State of Bhawalpur, which consists of a shield, as usual in sable (black), three palm branches palewise in fess (gold), or, in chief four double quatrefoils argent seeded as diamonds on a gold background. On the crest, and above the shield, the helmet and gorge of a suit of armour (diamonds on a gold background); above that, on the upper part, a double branch in gold and, at the top, a seven-pointed star of diamonds on gold resting on a crescent argent. At the sides of the blazon as supporters, two pelicans, rousant argent billed and membered are shown with rubies for eyes and standing on an undulating branch of emeralds and a Burmese ruby. Below that, the escroll in white enamel with the family name ‘Abbasi’ in Urdu.
Behind the case front, the movement is a wonder of complications, at the time considered at the forefront of technical innovation – a perpetual calendar, a Moon phase, and a split-second chronograph as well as a Minute repeater. On a gold background, the dial contains radial Roman numerals with a bead-set diamond between each. The outer minute scale and other dial numerals are Arabic. Bead-set Burmese rubies are seen beneath the day and date dials.
Behind the obverse side of the case, the portrait of the Nawab shows him in three-quarter angle and dressed in ceremonial red costume with gold braiding. Around his neck is a heavy necklace of pearls between pairs of alternating emeralds and rubies. On his head, he wears a Bhawalpuri turban with cascading ropes of pearls and rubies. On the perimeter of the circular portrait, we observe the initials JG (John Graff). Encircling the portrait, on the gold frame, a sequence of arches are delicately engraved in millegrain design.
Above the case, a heavy pendant emerges and leads to the segmented crown; above that, the circular bow is ornamented with a braided surface.

The Nawab of Bhawalpur, Sadiq Muhammad Khan Abbasi IV (1862-99) was a young prince with immense wealth and eclectic taste. He famously commissioned an extraordinary silver bed by Christofle with moving automatons of four nude life-size bronze ladies representing European beauties, which winked and fanned him as music played. He was also a refined aesthete of the Muslim dynasty that claimed descent from the Abbasid caliphate. A great collector of gemstones, famous for his collection of Mughal spinels and rare artefacts; his glamorous and flamboyant attire and coiffure were a seamless synthesis of mysticism and haute couture.