Illustraion by: Julien Fournié

PARIS, Oct 5, 2006 / FW / - A classy square lunchbox with crystal clear lid was expecting fashion writers at the Andrew GN runway show at the end of the morning. The Salle Gabriel at Carrousel du Louvre and looked like a plane at lunchtime as all passengers were eating the food in front of them. Once the service was over, the lights dimmed and were suddenly turned on gain very brightly on the two alleys that Andrew Gn’s stewardesses-models started to walk.

So much for the prelude to this voyage whose main colours were to be black and silver, where we would cross huge crystallized snakes holding some draped dresses on the bosom, meteorites of sparkling silver translucent big stones attached around the neckline of a dress, silver python skin prints on blindingly shiny coats and last but not least, silver rays on multiple-layered embroideries shaped like stars on a quasar black coat.

Andrew Gn has designed a collection that is certainly more consistent than the previous seasons, it has direction and looks more glamrock than ever. His regular clients and new younger fans will certainly look for his trench coats with compulsory crystal buttons or his Lurex knitwear pieces with raglan sleeves. I really liked one accessory, a reasonably sized black lacquered square rigid handbag with concentric square stitches on the outside: very inspired by the sixties, it looks like the most beautiful vintage bag for a night out.

The pieces conceived entirely in small round mat sequins were less convincing, they looked heavy and reminded me of shapeless coats of arms. This is the main thing that can be reproached to the collection: every fabric looked like starched, a bit too rigid, and the embellishments applied on them were still enhancing the vision.

This might be due to the constantly glittering looks seen herewhich no one would ever witness in a row and at such a frequent rhythm anywhere else on the planet earth. So, for the woman who wants to be noticed when she arrives at a party, for the lady who wishes to sparkle this summer, for the movie or music star who wants to outshine her rivals on the red carpet, just as for the adorers of the brightest crystal drops and of revolving and mirrored disco balls, this collection and this designer are very right indeed.

After giving his clothes more edge this season, Andrew GN will nevertheless have to try and make his clothes lighter. The viewers of his fashion shows might disembark from the next trip he offers them with no indigestion. By: Jean Paul Cauvin http://www.fashionwindows.com/runway_shows/andrew_gn/s071.asp