photo Marcio Madeira

ANDREW GN made a rapid departure from his signature colours, prints and leggy models in short skirts to show an autumn/winter 2008-9 collection that focused on trousers.

Precisely tailored and flattering, these were high-waisted trousers for boardroom women who want to be feminine - but taken seriously. Stark white blouses were dressed up with Victoriana high-necks, ruffles and a line of buttons down the front while colours were toned down - muted blues, greys, purples and browns ocassionally punctuated a palette of black.

Andrew Gn might have abondoned his trademark prints but there was still plenty of embellishment to keep the eyes diverted: fur trims were added to pockets and cuffs; velvet bows or brooches were pinned near the breastbone; and metallic brocade was used for shift dresses and corsets.

The majority of Gn's collection moved away from his usual style, but, perhaps to appease his client base - dubbed "bourgeois princesses" - the designer kept his gowns as feminine as ever, with Grecian-inspired creations made of chiffon or satin which seemed to float down the catwalk. We liked this new, edgier look - but only time will tell if Andrew Gn's client base feels the same. (27 February 2008, AM) Charlotte Duck www.vogue.co.uk