The Indian emerald necklace. Photo by Chip Clark.

This Art Deco Indian-style necklace was made in 1928-1929 by Cartier, Inc. and features 24 baroque-cut emerald drops, each surmounted by a smaller emerald bead, mounted in platinum with pave-set diamonds. The rich green emeralds are from Colombia, the source of the finest emeralds. Incorporating Indian influences and gemstones in to jewelry was one of Cartier’s great innovations during the Art Deco era.  The Art Deco Period (1920-1935) produced dazzling jewelry that was dramatically different from the jewelry of the previous periods.  Shifting from soft colors and flowing lines of the Art Nouveau era to bold bright colors and straight lines. New geometric cuts for gems complimented the symmetry and streamlined look of Art Deco jewelry, and emerald, sapphire and rubies became the very popular. This magnificent necklace belonged to Marjorie Merriweather Post, who wore it dressed as “Juliette” for the Palm Beach Everglades Ball in 1929. It originally had an elaborate emerald and diamond pendant that was later removed from the necklace and made in to a brooch. Marjorie Merriweather Post was heiress to the Post cereal fortune and a collector of French and Russian art.  The Art Deco Indian-style Emerald Necklace is one of several major donations she made to the National Gem Collection; others include the Napoleon Diamond Necklace, Marie-Louise Diadem, Blue Heart Diamond, Maximilian Emerald Ring, and Marie Antoinette Earrings (through her daughter Eleanor Barzin).  The Indian-style Emerald Necklace, donated in 1964, is on exhibit in the Gem Hall at the National Museum of Natural History.

Close-up photograph of round emeralds in the India emerald necklace (G5023). Photo by Chip Clark.