Magnificent Platinum, Natural Pearl and Diamond Corsage Ornament, Circa 1910 - Photo Sotheby's

Of Oriental inspiration, centered by a button-shaped natural pearl measuring 10.79 by 10.63 mm, surmounted by a cushion-cut diamond weighing 8.67 carats and flanked by two pear-shaped diamond drops weighing 9.59 carats and 8.78 carats, completed by a natural pearl drop measuring 11.88 by 11.69 mm, accented throughout by numerous old European, old mine and rose-cut diamonds weighing approximately 19.50 carats, length approximately 4 inches. Estimation: 800,000 - 1,200,000 USD

PROVENANCE: Christie's London, June 20, 1990, Magnificent Jewellery, lot 228.

Accompanied by four GIA reports:
No. 5141655552 stating the 9.59 carat diamond is G color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating the diamond has been determined to be type lla.
No. 1142655551 stating the 8.78 carat diamond is F color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating the diamond has been determined to be type lla.
No. 5141655553 stating the 8.67 carat diamond is E color, SI1 clarity. Together with a letter from the GIA stating the diamond has been determined to be type lla.
No. 2145655557 stating the pearls are natural, saltwater.

Accompanied by three Gübelin reports:
No. 12050092 stating the 9.59 carat diamond is Faint Pink color, SI2 clarity. Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla, and an appendix stating it evokes references to the term "Golconda."
No. 12050091 stating the 8.78 carat diamond is E color, SI2 clarity.Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla.
No. 12050090 stating the 8.67 carat diamond is D color, SI2 clarity. Together with a note stating the diamond is classified type lla, and an appendix stating it evokes references to the term "Golconda."

Set with large and important diamonds and natural pearls, the present corsage ornament, crafted to perfection, is the epitome of early twentieth century opulence. The sheer elegance of its design blends elements of the Belle Epoque style with the new and fresh Art Deco aesthetic that was just beginning to exert its influence. Only an artist keenly aware of emerging fashions in both jewelry and couture could have blended these seemingly disparate elements in such an appealing way. Although the original owner is not known, it was certainly made for a lady of great wealth and prominence.
Women’s fashion changed dramatically in 1910. Greatly influenced by Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes, Paul Poiret, the leading Parisian couturier, banished the bodice in favor new silhouettes that included harem dresses and trousers. So great was his influence that jewelry styles were forced to follow suit. The large garland-style corsage ornaments of the previous decade were now impossible to wear and in their place were more compact and formal designs that harmonized with the current fashion. The present corsage ornament, created around 1910, is very much of its time. In addition to the basically vertical orientation that anticipates the lines of Art Deco fashion, its design is a departure from
the more traditional European themes of bows and wreaths in favor of the exotic lotus flower so beloved in the mysterious east.

A brooch of similar design is illustrated in the 1989 edition of Understanding Jewellery by David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, page 283; additionally, please view Twentieth Century British Jewellery 1900-1980 by Peter Hinks, page 49.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels from the Collection of Mrs. Charles Wrightsman. New York | 05 déc. 2012 www.sothebys.com