An Emerald and Diamond necklace, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2013

The detachable pendant set with a drop-shaped carved emerald weighing approximately 18.90 carats, in a brilliant-cut diamond surround, to the marquise-shaped diamond surmount, suspended from a brilliant-cut diamond twin-line necklace, enhanced at the front with graduated fluted emerald beads flanked on either side with marquise-shaped diamonds, 38.0 cm, with French assay mark for gold, in beige suede Van Cleef & Arpels case. Signed and with maker’s mark for Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 29342. Estimate:  $266,758 – $366,793

Accompanied by report no. CS 56572 dated 28 August 2013 from the AGL American Gemological Laboratories stating that the 18.90 carat carved emerald is of Colombian origin, with indications of minor amount oil (2)

Notes: It is very interesting to note that one of the most favoured gemstones of the Mughals, the Old Indian emerald actually came from Colombia via the Portuguese port of Goa. From there the stones were sent out to be cut and carved into bazubands, taviz or simply beads. The origins of the floral and foliate carvings grew from the tradition of engraving the stones with the name of the Mughal emperors and was done, not only to bring out the regal colour and enhance the beauty of the stone, but also to show respect for the qualities the stone had been endowed with. Usually the emerald was carved with a rosette or a flowering plant, the poppy flower being the favorite just as the present carved emerald, a motif that developed under the reign of Jahangir after his visit to Kashmir in 1620, and was further enhanced under the influence of Herbal Prints.

These carved gems made their way to Europe early in the 20th Century and have since been of great influence on Western jewellery. The magic of these engraved stones still inspires today the greatest jewellery designers.

Christies. MAGNIFICENT JEWELS. 12 November 2013. Geneva.