Collection of twenty three jewellery designs on twenty two sheets, second half of the 18th century. Estimate 40,000 — 60,000 GBP. Photo Sotheby's

Comprising: twenty three designs in pen and ink wash on laid paper on twenty two sheets, including one sheet with design to the obverse and reverse, some bearing Amsterdam watermark, each measuring approximately 380mm x 240mm, folio. 

Notes: Each of the first nine drawings depict the following: The first contains a series of aigrettes, one containing a blindfolded cupid, three naturalistic jewels and a button, which could be placed on the bodice, sleeve or hat.

The second two crowned miniature frames and two romantic jewels, applied with hearts and doves.

The third with a miniature frame and bowknots.

The fourth design for an impressive stomacher. The fifth an impressive aigrette of flowers, bowknot and tassel, which would have been a spectacular ornament to the elaborate hairstyles of the later decades of the eighteenth century, a bowknot and flower jewels.

The sixth designs for a miniature case with military trophy surmount buttons and buckle.

The seventh designs for a bouquet for wearing on the bodice or hair, top and drop earrings and pendants.

The eighth another military trophy miniature frame, pendants and giardinetti motifs and the ninth with miniature trophy miniature frame and four bouquet designs for the hair or bodice.

The remaining fourteen designs, with flowers and ribbons appear heavily, while the mixing of various categories would suggest the use of space economically for intended publication.

Unlike the first nine drawings they contain design for both women: aigrettes, combs, earrings, brooches, buttons and buckles and men; hat loops, shoulder knots, sword hilts, snuff boxes and insignia.

The first contain designs for The Order of the White Eagle of Poland and the Order of Malta with a suggested foliate surmount. The second a fantastical design for the Order of the Golden Fleece incorporating a mythological dragon as a surmount, along with comb and bow knot. The third sword hilts and further suggested surmounts for Orders and the fourth two portrait miniature frames with crown surmounts. The remaining designs contain suggestions for girandole earrings, necklaces, chatelaines and a snuff box.

With thanks to Diana Scarisbrick and Morton & Eden.

Sotheby's. Fine Jewels London, 18 Mar 2015, 10:30 AM