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26 décembre 2017

Hat jewelry, so-called Egret (brilliant set). Globig, August Gotthelf (before 1769-after 1819) (jeweler)

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Hat jewelry, so-called Egret (brilliant set). Globig, August Gotthelf (before 1769-after 1819) (jeweler). Dresden, between 1782 and 1807. 359 diamonds of different sizes, silver, gold; 14.8 x 9.4 cm. Green Vault, VIII 26 © Dresden State Art Collections

The hat-jewelery, which was called Reiherstutz, originated after 1782. The unusual Hutzier belonged to the 1807 for the first time pledged brilliant jewelery of King Friedrich August I. and was inventoried later in the brilliant set. In addition to the hat brim or -agraffe with the "Dresdner Greens", she is the second hat jewelry of the early Classicist brilliant set. The shape of the heron's neck is very original. Both in its designation and in its form, there are clear references to the dating back to the late Renaissance Hutschmuck the Aigrette. Since there is no holder for the plug-in feather headdress on the back, the name refers exclusively to the shape of the jewel. August Gotthelf Globig made the heron's neck as an artificial bundle of nine slender, brilliant "feathers", which spring from a moving loop with their dense "keels". Except for the large main stone in the middle of the loop, all diamonds are made in a very elaborate way à jour. Five bars with increasing in size brilliants stabilize the springs and create a sparkling grid. How the stylized hat jewelry was worn is not known. The hat fashion of the late 18th century certainly provided a suitable background for such a magnificent piece of jewelry. In the last quarter of the century, the three-pronged lace from the French fashion of the Baroque had stiff, semicircular brims that were arched and almost completely obscured the hat's head. With the aid of eyelets attached to the horizontal bars of the heron's neck, this hat jewelery could be sewn comfortably onto the brim. The heron cut of the diamond set is the last gem of the jewels of kings adapted to the prevailing fashion. Only the buttons and some hat buckles of the Brillantgarnitur were changed in the third decade of the 19th century.
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