Orion Ring, designed by Theo Fennell, 18-carat white gold, cabochon tanzanite, diamond and enamel. (courtesy of Theo Fennell)

This 18-carat white gold pave brilliant cut white and black diamond and ruby snake trellis shield pendant by Theo Fennell was on display in London last week. (courtesy of Theo Fennell)

"I love the idea of London jewelry week, but it is going to need time to mature," said Theo Fennell, who designed the 18-carat rose gold, brown circon and diamond Phoenix Ring, shown here.  (courtesy of Theo Fennell)

Theo Fennell, who is in the process of remodeling his role to concentrate on one-off designs and on training a new generation, said that he admired student creativity at the Royal College of Art (where the company bestows annual awards), Central Saint Martins and Birmingham Institute of Art and Design.

"I love the idea of London jewelry week, but it is going to need time to mature," said Fennell. "But people are realizing that this town is the best for schools and best for young jewelry designers." Suzy Menkès www.iht.com