Emerald, Natural Pearl and Diamond 'Guluband', Rajasthan, 18th/19th century

Composed of eleven square plaques, each decorated with kachnar ki patti green translucent enamel and set with a pear-shaped foil-backed diamond, bordered by natural pearls and supporting a deep fringe of emerald beads, natural pearls and similarly set diamond drops, the reverse of the mounts with safed chalwan enamel depicting red poppy plants and flowerheads, mounted in gold, slight imperfections, completed by later-added gold chains at the side with diamond-edged caps and pavé-set diamond clasp, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, numbered NY 4720 S.O. With original lot tag from Thurn and Taxis sale. Estimate 200,000—300,000 USD. Lot sold 314,500 USD.

PROVENANCE: The Thurn und Taxis Collection, Sotheby's Geneva, November 17, 1992, lot 172.

NOTE: Accompanied by GIA report no. 2105197519 stating that the pearls are natural.

Prince Johannes von Thurn und Taxis was fascinated by India and it's ancient culture. This guluband, or nuptial necklace, was purchased by the Prince as a present for his wife Princess Gloria as a reminder of one of their visits to the country.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 09 Dec 08. New York. photo courtesy Sotheby's. www.sothebys.com