Yellow gold, platinum and diamond bracelet, Cartier

The sprung bracelet designed as a coiled serpent, decorated with stylised chevron scales set with cushion- and pear-shaped, single- and circular-cut diamonds, signed Cartier Paris and numbered, French assay marks, 1938, the detachable serpent head, not by Cartier, is a later addition and may be worn as a clip brooch. Est. 30,000—45,000 CHF. Lot Sold 80,500 CHF

PEOVENANCE: Formerly in the collection of Diane Benvenuti, née Rothschild

NOTE: Throughout the ages, the serpent has been a popular decorative motif in jewellery design. From Biblical times to the present, its mythological significance, symbolism connected with wisdom and eternity-the circle 'ouroboros' created by a snake biting its tail-and sinuous curves made the snake a perfect theme for jewellery design.

Snake jewellery was extremely popular in the mid 18th century. Brooches, rings, necklaces and bracelets were fashioned of yellow gold, studded with turquoise, diamond or coloured stones. Sotheby's New York sold a fine example of a gold and diamond Victorian snake necklace in December 2008, lot 424.

Cartier has long been creating jewels with a serpent motif. Arguably the most famous Cartier snake creation was a necklace designed for the Mexican actress Maria Felix in 1968. This diamond and enamel piece was so well articulated it appeared to be alive.

The bracelet offered here, created in the 1930-40s, has an African, or Indian inspiration, which was very much in vogue during this period.