A cocktail dress of black wool crepe. Cristobal Balenciaga, 1960s. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

with draped cowl shawl collar and gathered fronts, labelled in side seam, tagged 56439. Est. £800 - £1,500 ($1,327 - $2,489) - Price Realized £3,250 ($5,392)

A white silk guipure evening gown. Cristobal Balenciaga, 1960s. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

applied with embroidered chiffon flowers throughout, with boat neckline and full skirts, labelled in side seam, tagged 51035. Est. £2,500 - £3,500 ($4,148 - $5,807) - Price Realized £3,250 ($5,392)

A grey and white puff-ball dress. Eisa, circa 1951. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

of silk faille warp-dyed in charcoal grey, the wrapover bodice with three-quarter sleeves, the skirts hand smocked at the hips and releasing into a very large puff ball skirt, with original belt. Labelled: Eisa (2). Est. £1,000 - £1,200 ($1,659 - $1,991) - Price Realized £2,750 ($4,562)

Note:Label Eisa is ready-to-wear from the house of Balenciaga

A black velvet dress and collar. Eisa, 1950. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

the floral devoré velvet dress with full skirt and long sleeves, with original belt, and dramatic detachable collar descending to a deep point. Labelled: Eisa (3). Est. £1,500 - £2,000 ($2,489 - $3,318) - Price Realized £1,875 ($3,111)

Literature: Jouve and Demornex, 'Balenciaga,' Rizzoli NY, 1989; and Jouve, 'Fashion Memoir: Balenciaga,' Thames & Hudon, 1997, p14.

Notes: The same model made up as a coat, with its distinctive collar, was photographed by Irving Penn, and featured in Vogue in 1950. Anne Bullitt Biddle was clear in her specifications, often altering presented styles to her own figure and needs. Here she has had a coat redesigned into a dress.

A white spotted silk day dress. Eisa, circa 1950-55. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

silk twill with a black spot motif, wide-cuffed short sleeves and very full skirts, and with black silk belt. Labelled: Eisa. Est.£600 - £800 ($995 - $1,327) - Price Realized £1,875 ($3,111)

A black silk faille 'balloon' cocktail dress. Eisa, circa 1950. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

the bodice with wide neckline and bracelet-length sleeves, the very full skirts constructed as harem pants and tightly gathered at the legs to create a balloon effect. Labelled: Eisa. Est.£1,000 - £1,500 ($1,659 - $2,489) - Price Realized £1,625 ($2,696)

Notes: The culotte type skirts are most unusual. One can only assume this was a modification requested by Mrs Biddle.

A flamenco-inspired cocktail ensemble. Eisa, circa 1950-55. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

fitted black wool dress, flaring out at the hip to a full circle-cut silk faille skirt stiffened with crinoline, together with matching black wool wrap with wide faille panels to either end. Labelled: Eisa (2). Est.£800 - £1,200 ($1,327 - $1,991) - Price Realized £1,000 ($1,659)

A cream matelassé summer suit. Cristobal Balenciaga, c. 1950. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

the tailored, unlined jacket short sleeved and with flat, gilt metal buttons, the skirt slightly flared. Labelled: Eisa. Est.£600 - £800 ($995 - $1,327) - Price Realized £750 ($1,244)

A pewter grey silk ensemble. Eisa, circa 1950. Image 2009 Christie's Ltd

comprising pencil skirt, sleeveless shell with sweetheart neckline and peplum, and full boxy jacket closing at the throat. Labelled: Eisa (3). Est.£500 - £700 ($830 - $1,161) - Price Realized £625 ($1,037)

Christie's. Fashion Through the Ages. 3 December 2009. London, South Kensington www.christies.com