Cartier ruby and diamond necklace. Photo: Bonhams.
HONG KONG.- The Bonhams Hong Kong 2013 Spring Fine Jewellery & Jadeite Auction held on 25 May at the Island Ballroom of the Island Shangri-La Hotel offers 190 sparks of marvels that will entice collectors and aficionados alike.
Headlining the sale is Lot 1092, a magnificent art deco ruby and diamond necklace, by Cartier, circa 1925, with an estimate of HK$3,000,000 – 4,000,000. Featuring approximately 20.00ct of rubies and 30.00ct of diamonds, the necklace’s linear outline and geometric design are classic examples of the art deco period. This important necklace was illustrated in the book "Bijoux Art Deco" by renowned French author Sylvie Raulet.
The Art Deco period is one of the most popular and enduring design periods in the history of jewellery. The style reflected the flamboyant and playful attitudes of the era and gave birth to forms and motifs that continue to live on today. Defined by geometric forms and bold colours, the Art Deco jewellery style was in sharp contrast to the jewels of preceding periods. Diamonds were extremely popular in the Art Deco period and were often accompanied by the bright colours of rubies, sapphires and emeralds. While the Art Deco period covers the early 1920s through 1935, its influence extends all the way through the 1950s and 1960s and indeed to the current day.
The Cartier ruby and diamond necklace offered at the Bonhams sale bears witness to the iconic Art Deco style and is imbued with the Maison’s savoir-faire. Reminiscent of a work of art, this Egyptian revival necklace features a series of fifteen cushion-shaped rubies graduating in size to the centre, each within a geometric surround of brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds forming a tapering plaque, the back chain of shield and circular linking pavé set with similarly cut diamonds, the largest to the centre.
Commenting on the sale of this important piece, Graeme Thompson, Head of Jewellery for Bonhams Asia, said: 'We are delighted to be offering such a superb ruby and diamond necklace for sale at Bonhams on 25 May. Necklaces of this period are extremely difficult to find, even more so when they are by Cartier, a House synonymous with Fine Jewellery. Without doubt this jewel that exemplifies Art Deco jewellery at its best.'
In addition to the Cartier Art Deco ruby and diamond necklace, other highlights include:
Lot 1091 An important coloured diamond and diamond ring, by Van Cleef & Arpels. Photo: Bonhams.
The step-cut diamond, weighing 11.47 carats, between trillion-cut diamond shoulders, mounted in platinum,remaining diamonds approximately 2.40 carats, signed Van Cleef Arpels, maker's mark ring size 6¾. Estimate: HK$5,500,000 - 6,500,000
Accompanied by a report from Gubelin Gem Lab stating that the 11.47 carat diamond is fancy light pinkish-orange, natural colour and VVS1 clarity. There is an appendix to this certificate stating that the diamond is Type IIa. Report number 0704164, dated 1 May 2007.
Lot 1090 A jadeite bangle. Photo: Bonhams.
The cylindrical bangle of lavender colour with bright green and white patches and very good translucency, with an outer diameter measuring approximately 76.0mm, inner diameter measuring approximately 55.6mm and a thickness measuring 11.0mm. Estimate: HK$1,880,000 - 2,880,000
Accompanied by a report from the Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory stating that jadeite is natural and no resin was detected. Report number KJ 79065, dated March 25 2013.
Lot 1089 A sapphire and diamond cluster ring. Photo: Bonhams.
Of floral design, the central cushion cut sapphire, weighing 8.39 carats, within a surround of heart-shaped diamonds, weighing 4.03 carats total, all between bifurcated shoulders set with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in 18k white gold,remaining diamonds approximately 0.85 carat total, ring size 7. Estimate: HK$1,400,000 - 1,700,000
Accompanied by a report from SSEF Swiss Gemological Institute stating that the 8.39 carat sapphire is natural, with no indications of heat treatment and originates from Kashmir. Report number 67245, dated March 13 2013
Accompanied by a copy of a report from GRS Gem Research Swiss Lab stating that the 8.40 carat sapphire is natural, with no indications of heat treatment and originates from Kashmir. Report number GRS2007-082387, dated August 24 2007.
Accompanied by eight certificates from GIA.
Lot 1088 An impressive three-stone diamond ring, by Harry Winston. Photo: Bonhams.
The step-cut diamond, weighing 4.01 carats, flanked by similarly cut diamonds, weighing 2.03 and 2.01 carats, mounted in platinum, maker's mark, ring size 6. Estimate: HK$1,280,000 - 1,600,000
Accompanied by three reports from GIA stating:
The 4.01 carat diamond is F colour and VVS2 clarity. Report number 2145866416, dated July 31 2012
The 2.03 carat diamond is F colour and VVS2 clarity. Report number 2115848839, dated March 26 2010
The 2.01 carat diamond is E colour and VVS1 clarity. Report number 1126445481, dated August 23 2010.
Lot 1087 A ruby and diamond ring, by Harry Winston. Photo: Bonhams.
The oval mixed-cut ruby, weighing 3.61 carats, within a surround of marquise and pear-shaped diamonds, mounted in platinum and 18k gold, diamonds approximately 1.75 carats total, signed Winston, ring size 5¾. Estimate: HK$1,010,000 - 1,500,000
Accompanied by a report from GRS Gem Research Swiss Lab stating that the 3.61 carat ruby is natural vivid red (GRS type "pigeon's blood"), with no indications of heat treatment and originates from Burma (Mogok, Myanmar). Report number GRS2013-031739, dated March 7 2013.
Accompanied by a report from Gubelin Gemlab stating that the 3.61 carat ruby is natural, with no indications of heat treatment, and originates from Burma (Myanmar). Report number 0003682, dated 29 March 2000.
Lot 1086 A fine art deco sapphire and diamond bracelet, by Cartier, circa 1930. Photo: Bonhams.
Designed as three articulated center sections set with rows of calibré-cut sapphires highlighted with cabochon sapphire pegs, each connected with geometric buckle-shaped links pavé-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, to a concealed clasp of similar design, diamond approximately 6.05 carats total, signed Cartier France, indistinct number, bracelet length 16.2cm. Estimate: HK$1,560,000 - 2,700,000
Accompanied by a report of authenticity from Cartier numbered GE2012-6, dated 13th January 2012.
Lot 1085 An impressive diamond necklace, circa 1970. Photo: Bonhams.
The center section forming an inverted heart of intertwining baguette and profile-cut diamonds, all suspended from meandering courses of similarly cut stones and a swag of brilliant-cut diamonds, the articulated back chain designed as scrolled ribbons highlighted with brilliant, profile and tapered baguette-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum,diamonds approximately 74.00 carats total, inner circumference 41.0cm. Estimate: HK$700,000 - 940,000
Lot 1082 A ruby and diamond ring, by Marcus. Photo: Bonhams.
The oval mixed-cut ruby, weighing 5.47 carats, within modified shield-cut diamonds, mounted in 18k white gold,diamonds approximately 0.90 carat total, signed Marcus, ring size 7. Estimate: HK$975,000 - 1,200,000
Accompanied by a report from American Gemological Laboratories stating that the 5.47 carat ruby is natural, with no indication of heat treatment and originates from Burma (Myanmar). Report number CS 51365, dated October 5 2012.