Lot 106. A fine and important Balenciaga couture ivory slubbed silk gazar bridal gown and veil, Spring-Summer collection, 1968, sold to an overseas collection for £60,000 hammer, a new world record for the designer. © 2015 Kerry Taylor Auctions

The saleroom was packed for this very special event.  In these days of telephone and internet bidding it is always nice for me to see so many familiar faces, as I am aware that some auction rooms are now almost devoid of human beings. The atmosphere was electric with the room filled with collectors, museum curators and dealers as well as some slightly nervous first time bidders. It is great that this market is attracting new young, enthusiastic collectors.

The bids were so fast and furious that it took almost four hours to get through the 244 lots and the bidding was as strong at the end as it was at the beginning. Again the sale total exceeded the top estimate making just under £600,000 hammer total. 

One of the most important lots of the day was lot 106 the Balenciaga couture ivory slubbed silk gazar bridal gown worn by Almudena Elorza Losada for her wedding in June 1968. Widely exhibited and published, this iconic piece sold to an overseas collection for £60,000 hammer – a new world record for the designer. 

Lot 106. A fine and important Balenciaga couture ivory slubbed silk gazar bridal gown and veil, Spring-Summer collection, 1968. Sold for £60000 to an overseas collection, a new world record for the designer. © 2015 Kerry Taylor Auctions 

the dress un-labelled, the veil with Eisa label, of Abraham silk, the short sleeves cut in one piece with the yoke, the front panel formed from joined triangles of gazar - their points converging at the centre front neck opening, the back panel cut in one piece with curved hem; the matching short, curved veil adorned with satin orange blossom to the crown, bust approx 86cm, 34in (2)

Notes: This important dress is one of Balenciaga's last creations at the end of his career. It was made for Almudena Elorza Losada for her marriage to Enrique Guzman Bergareche, June 3rd, 1968. It shows Balenciaga at the height of his creative powers, where he takes the traditional flowing white bridal gown and condenses its essence into this stark, minimal almost sculptural garment.

Marriage of Almudena Elorza Losada in Balenciaga to Enrique Guzman Bergareche, June 3rd, 1968.

Literature: A similar gown and veil is photographed in 'Hommage a Balenciaga', Musée Historique des Tissus de Lyon, p97. 'Balenciaga & Spain' by Hamish Bowles p124 for a photograph of an identical dress and veil. 'Balenciaga' by the Cristobal Balenciaga museum pp327-8, for another variation of this model, 1968. 'Balenciaga Paris' edited by Pamela Golbin p147 for a 1967 archive image of a similar dress.

Exhibited: Hubert de Givenchy exhibition of 'Unforgettable Wedding Gowns' at the Chateau de Haroue, May-August 2012 and the Palacio Cadaval, Evora, Portugal, June-September 2015. 'Balenciaga and Spain' at the Fine Arts Museum of San Francisco, May-July 2011. 'Balenciaga. El diseño del límite' at the Museo de Bellas Artes de Bilbao, May-September 2010. 

You might think £26,000 is rather a lot for a knitted sweater with holes in it – but we set another world record price for Comme des Garcons with lot 184. The chunky knit was featured in their A/W 1983 advertising campaign and was a good example of their ‘de-constructed’ early creations.  Teamed with a pair of knitted trousers it sold for a remarkable £26,000.  The fabulous and extreme Comme ‘Bump’ collection ensemble from S/S 1997 collection also exceeded the estimate selling for £22,000 (both below)

Lot 184. A Comme des Garçons black knitted top, Autumn-Winter 1983. Lot sold £26000. © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

Tricot label, white on black woven label, of rectangular form, the back panel of plain-weave wool, the front of double layered stocking stitch with two large intentional slashes, with slits for arms and neck; together with a pair of black wide legged fine-knit trousers with ribbon label (2)

This knitted top was included in the Comme des Garçons Tricot catalogue, 15th July 1983, p6, photographed by Peter Lindbergh.

Comme des Garçons Tricot catalogue, 15th July 1983, p6, photographed by Peter Lindbergh.

A fine Rei Kawakubo-Comme des Garçons 'Body Meets Dress' or 'Bump' collection ensemble, Spring-Summer 1997. Sold for £22000. © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

black and gold label, comprising: stretch nylon pink and white gingham checked jacket with tulle lining and integral pillows, button closure; the matching skirt in turquoise check with irregular, undulating seams creating contours, dipping rear hem (2)

Notes: An identical padded gingham jacket was worn by Jodie Kidd on the catwalk show. It was also featured in Visionaire no 20, 1997, edited by Rei KAWAKUBO, photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. It is rare to find garments from this collection with such extreme, exaggerated 'bumps' complete with integral original pillows. The outrageous Punchinello proportions of this ensemble are redolent of the main catwalk looks, rather than the more watered-down versions made for general retail.

The Schiaparelli jacket embroidered in the style of a man’s 18^th century waistcoat (below), A/W 1937 sold for £24,000 to a UK private collector and the shocking pink velvet Schiap jacket c.1937 sold for £13,000 to an overseas museum (below)

An Elsa Schiaparelli couture daisy-embroidered jacket, Autumn-Winter 1937-38. Lot sold £24000 to a UK private collector © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

'21 Place Vendôme, Paris' labelled, of midnight blue grosgrain moiré silk, embroidered in ivory corded silk, the flowers with sequin and pearl bead centres, the blossoms near the hem hand painted in pink, lined in black silk, with stand collar, lightly padded shoulders, hook and eye fastenings, chest 81cm, 32in

Provenance: Sheila 'Pitt' Grant-Smith, a Scottish socialite. She wore it as part of her wedding trousseau when she married Robert John Wastel Arbuthnot-Brisco on 15th February 1940 at St Margaret's Church, Montrose, Scotland.

An Elsa Schiaparelli couture shocking pink velvet evening jacket, circa 1937. Lot sold £24000 to an overseas museum © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

black on white London label, no 7202, with deep ruched ruffles to left hip pocket, fastened by hooks and eyes, lightly padded shoulders, bust 86cm, 34in

Provenance: Nella Leone, daughter of Cavalliere Giuseppe Leone. She was known for her elegance and taste. 

Audrey Hepburn’s Givenchy haute couture coat (below centre), A/W 1959-60 sold for £17,000 after a fierce battle between a UK and overseas collectors – the latter eventually winning it. 

Audrey Hepburn's Givenchy haute couture black silk evening coat, Autumn-Winter 1959-60. Lot sold £24000 to an overseas collector © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

labelled and numbered 12317, with curving front and back seams, large moulded porcelain 'liquorice'-like buttons, fold-over collar, chest 92cm, 36in; together with a letter of authenticity from the Audrey Hepburn Foundation (2)

Notes: This was previously sold at KTA, 8.12.2009, lot 299.

The coat was given as a gift to her friend Tanya Star Busman in the late 1960s. Audrey had had it shortened to a mini in line with the prevailing fashions of the period. She was photographed wearing the coat in January 1960 by both Cecil Beaton and Jim Pringle, on the terrace of her hotel suite at the Hotel Hassler, Rome. 

Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy haute couture black silk evening coat, Autumn-Winter 1959-60, Hotel Hassler, Rome, January 1960. Photo by Cecil Beaton © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archie at Sotheby's.

Audrey Hepburn in Givenchy haute couture black silk evening coat, Autumn-Winter 1959-60, Hotel Hassler, Rome, January 1960. Photo by Jim Pringle

The Alexander McQueen printed organza and satin dress from Plato’s Atlantis, S/S 2010, and arguably one of his finest collections, was hotly contested by overseas museums and collectors, eventually selling selling for £16,000 – the highest price ever paid at auction for this particular model (below first).  Lot 235, the McQueen ‘Panteon as Lecum’ collection ‘Goddess’ dress with feathered collar sold to a US private collector bidding in the room for £11,000 (pictured below). 

An Alexander McQueen 'Plato's Atlantis' collection snakeskin printed organza dress, Spring-Summer 2010. Lot sold £16,000 © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

grey label and size 40, with python-like photo-collage print in brilliant colours, internal flesh coloured boned corset-like bodice, with original shop tag, bust approx 81cm, 32in

Notes: This was look no 4 on the catwalk for the S/S 2010 collection. McQueen said of this collection that it predicted a future in which 'the ice cap would melt...the waters would rise and ...life on Earth would have to evolve in order to live beneath the sea once more or perish... Humanity (would) go back to the place from whence it came'. 'There is no way back for me now. I am going to take you on journeys you've never dreamed were possible'.

Literature: Metropolitan Museum 'Savage Beauty', pp184-195. This model was chosen for both the Metropolitan Museum and the Victoria & Albert Museum retrospective exhibitions. 

An Alexander McQueen oyster pink jersey 'Goddess' gown, 'Pantheon as Lecum' collection, Autumn-Winter 2004-5. Lot sold £11,000 © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

look no 34, labelled and size 40, the broad feather collar adorned with cabochon topaz coloured stones and mother of pearl discs, with Vionnet inspired knotted drape to the front, bust approx 86-92cm, 34-36in

Lot 33, the Charles Frederick Worth ball gown, c. 1885-8 of luxurious cut-velvet trimmed with orange satin bows sold for £13,000 to an overseas museum. It has been in the  family of its original owner, the Marchesa de Castrillo since it was made and we felt very honoured to be entrusted with its sale (below). 

Lot 33: A rare Charles Frederick Worth historically-inspired voided velvet ball gown, 1885-8, made for the the Marquesa de Castrillo. Lot sold £13,000 to an overseas museum © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

(more images, cf. my post Passion for Fashion on 8th December 2015 at Kerry Taylor Auctions)

A favourite in the whole sale – lot 65, the divine Lanvin black satin biais cut dress ‘Prelude’ 1934-35 sold for £15,000 to a US collector also bidding in the room (below right). 

A Jeanne Lanvin couture black satin evening dress, 'Prelude', 1934-5. Lot sold £13,000 © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

large woven label, with large hexagonal top-stitched panels to the upper bodice, simple criss-cross straps to the back, side zip, bust 81cm, 32in

Provenance: Formerly part of the Castle Howard collection. 

Jeanne Lanvin couture, sketch of  'Prelude', 1934-5.

The Reville Ltd, Paris spectacular black and white beaded court gown with matching train, fan and feather head-dress worn by Lady Mary Holcroft in May, 1928 when she was presented at Court to HRH King George V, sold for £11,000 (below). As the auctioneer, I know I should be un-biased,  but I confess to being delighted when I learned it had been purchased for the Ceremonial Dress Collection, Historic Royal Palaces. Apologies to those who under-bid it -  but it pleases me enormously to know that it will be preserved in such a prestigious collection and that when I’m an old lady I can go an visit it when on display! 

Lot 43 : A Reville Ltd of Paris couture court dress and train, circa 1928. Lot sold £11000 © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

(more images, cf. my post: http://www.alaintruong.com/archives/2015/11/30/33005537.html

Versace was selling very strongly and the outrageous black figure hugging cocktail dress with gold breast cups also sold for £11,000 to an overseas museum (pictured below). 

A Gianni Versace fitted black cocktail halter-neck dress with moulded breast cups, late 1980s. sold for £11000. © Kerry Taylor Auctions.

Gianni Versace label, of stretch polyester crêpe, the prestud-fastened Boadicea style composition breast cups in imitation of cast gilt metal, bust approx 86cm, 34in.