Lot 216. A rare enamel and gold bracelet, circa 1900, by Bapst & Falize. Estimate CHF140,000 – CHF180,000 ($143,473 - $184,465). Photo Christie's Image Ltd 2016 

Designed as a hinged band of nine translucent cloisonné enamelled panels, each depicting vibrant vari-coloured birds, surrounded by floral ornaments, against a pale gray ground; the yellow enamelled reverse embellished by vari-coloured leaves, 19.0 cm, circa 1900, mounted in gold, in blue leather Bapst & Falize case. Unsigned, no. 324

Notes: ‘A true Renaissance of the Art of Enamel has taken place. As a result of his practical research, which was a real education, Lucien Falize succeeded in discovering technical processes that had fallen into disuse, and which he restored to the great beneft of our industrial and decorative arts’. Oscar Massin, a talented jeweller and drawer of the 19th century

This Falize bracelet displays all the tradition, craftsmanship and originality which made the House of Falize famous. The Falize family dynasty lasted for three generations: Alexis Falize (1811-1898) opened his workshop in 1838 in Paris and quickly established a reputation for his gold jewellery with cloisonné enamel. After his retirement, his son Lucien (1839-1897) took over the firm and was in turn succeeded by his son André (1872-1936). The latter worked with his brothers Jean and Pierre under the name Falize Frères.

One can clearly see the influences of Far Eastern art, Medieval Art and the Arts & Crafts movement on this fine bracelet. Mathew Perry’s expedition to Japan in 1853-1854 had opened up the Asian empire to inquiring travellers as well as artists on the Continent. Lucien Falize in particular was captivated by Oriental textiles and prints. The Medieval inspiration on this jewel is quite striking as well, especially in the grotesque interpretation of these winged creatures. The depiction of the stylised multi-coloured birds is in fact a design by Falize Frères, Lucien’s sons, but it reflects Lucien’s enduring influence on the House of Falize.

This English-born Arts & Crafts movement was revolutionary in the decorative arts and design at the turn of the century. Its proponents urged Art for everyone in a reaction against the demoralising effects of factories and the mechanization of the 19th century. William Morris was a leader of the movement, as well as the philosopher John Ruskin, who believed in replicating natural beauty in the fine and decorative arts. The Middle Ages and the Renaissance were seen as model eras. Jewellery of the Arts & Crafts period often featured Medieval and Renaissance motifs, such as the floral patterns on the reverse of this bracelet. They are reminiscent of the decoration seen around letters on medieval illuminated manuscripts.

Enamel work of the standard shown in this bracelet is very hard to achieve. The sheer quality of a piece is its real signature.

Christie's. GENEVA MAGNIFICENT JEWELS, 18 May 2016, Geneva