Dragon robe,  Liao dynasty (907-1125) © Rossi & Rossi

This robe embroidered with dragon roundels has the typical style of a Liao period robe, with standing collar and back riding vent typical of Khitan costume. The present robe is also the earliest known extant example of a dragon robe. The original size of the robe was possibly 135 to 150 centimetres in length, and 220 to 230 centimetres in width, including the two sleeves. The riding vent at the back was between 60 and 70 centimetres in length). Slightly unusual, however, are the three dragon roundels on the back, one on the top and two at the bottom, where normally there are only two embroidered roundels in Liao costume. The robe is composed of four layers sewn together, the outermost being a gauze embroidered with the dragon roundels and supported by a second yellow silk tabby layer, then by a silk floss and finally by an inner lining of damask with a pattern of rosettes. Before the embroidery of the outer layer, the gauze and tabby silks would have first been joined and then the pattern embroidered. Finally the floss and the lining would have been sewn into the robe. The stitch used in this embroidery is only couched stitch, but the threads are of both gold and silver wrapped thread, with some silk threads for the dragons eyes in plain stitch. 

There are two sizes of dragon roundel. Seven large ones are distributed on the front panel, inner panel and back, each with size between 36 and 40 centimetres. Each roundel holds two dragons chasing each other around the circular form. 

The style of the dragon is typical of that found in earlier Tang (618-907) design as well as that to be found in the design of the contemporaneous Song dynasty (960-1279). They have flat heads, open mouths with a large flare in the lip and sharp teeth. Their horns are placed close together, and their feet have three claws each. The flaming pearl that they are contending for is placed at the roundels centre, and clouds form the background. The robe also bears two smaller roundels, each about 20 centimetres in diameter. They have both suffered a great deal of damage, although it seems likely their embroidered designs were miniature versions of that in the larger roundels. 

Generally speaking, such dragon roundels should indicate the robe was intended for an imperial personage. According to the Liao histories, among the emperors Chinese-style robes was one known as a long gun literally meaning a ceremonial robe with dragon decoration, as well as one known as the ze huang pao or yellow robe. The first name indicates the importance of the dragon motif within Liao imperial regalia and ceremonial. No further discussion is to be found in Liao documents, but such practice can also be found in the Song and Jin (1115-1234) dynasties, the latter having adopted a great deal of its court traditions from the Liao. The Song emperors wore gauze robes brocaded with dragons and clouds in a red colour. Additional evidence can be found in descriptions of lacquer boxes made for Song imperial use and carved with rampant dragons and flowers, and covered with gauze scarves embroidered with coiled dragons. The latter are possibly similar to the red gauze scarf embroidered with oiled dragon roundels found at the Liao site of the white pagoda at Qingzhou (Balinyouqi, Inner Mongolia) (Fig. I.4). Song histories also record a red satin robe printed with gold coiled dragon roundels, which came into the possession of the first Jin emperor, Wanyan Aguda (r. 1115-1123). A last piece of evidence can be found in a mural in Cave 409 at Dunhuang, in which a Uighur king (described as a Tangut king in some publications) wears a robe with coiled dragon roundels. Although of different colours and executed with a different technique, it is significant that both the Jin robe and the Tangut/Uighur kings robe are of the same style as the Liao dragon robe under discussion. 

The yellow colour of the Liao robe has been typical of imperial garments in China since at least the 4th century. In his writings, Jia Sixie (act. c. 533-544), recorded that the Northern Wei dynasty (386-534) had a special workshop, called he dong ran ju, to dye the royal yellow colour. Records also mentions that Yang Jian (541-604), the emperor Wendi of the Sui dynasty (581-618), wore a damask court robe of a reddish yellow colour, while Li Yuan (566-635), the emperor Gaozu of the Tang dynasty, delegated this reddish yellow colour for the changfu, an ordinary official robe, so that the imperial yellow colour would be reserved for special occasions only. By the time of the Liao dynasty it seems to have become standard practice that yellow was the colour reserved for the emperor. The style of the Liao robe would be the same as that for a Tang emperor with the exception of the Liao style of wrapping the robe to the left, which was unique to the Khitans. It seems likely, therefore, that the robe under discussion was a state robe once belonging to the Liao imperial household. 

However, as all the Liao imperial tombs were systematically robbed in ancient times, it is extremely unlikely that this robe could come from the burial of a Liao emperor. Much more likely is the possibility that the robe was an honoured gift from a Liao emperor to a high-ranking official or member of his court. It was not rare for emperors before and after the Liao to grant gifts of imperial costume to high officials. For example, early Song emperors bestowed annually official uniforms (which were comprised of seven layers of garments), but only to those of the rank of jiang (marshals), xiang (prime ministers), xieshi (senior civil officials) and jinjun daxiao (senior military officials). Later the practice came to include all officials and on a twice yearly basis. However, at the Liao court there is no record of any restraints on such gifts, and they would likely have been dispensed at the whim of the emperor and his government. 

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