PARIS – Sotheby’s est heureuse d’annoncer sa deuxième vente Haute Couture, le mardi 3 octobre à Paris. La maison soumet au feu des enchères 140 « petites robes noires » issues de la collection personnelle de Didier Ludot, avec le concours de Kerry Taylor Auctions. En juillet 2015, Sotheby’s France avait dévoilé une partie de l’univers de Didier Ludot. Les créations mythiques des plus grands couturiers avaient ainsi défilé à la galerie Charpentier et conquis le cœur des collectionneuses et collectionneurs le temps d’une vente éclatante*. Cette nouvelle édition célèbrera un monument de la mode, un vêtement intemporel qui fascine les couturiers, magnifie les femmes, envoûte les hommes et constitue la pièce indispensable de tout dressing parisien digne de ce nom : la petite robe noire.

PARIS.- Sotheby’s announced its second sale of Haute Couture to take place in Paris on Tuesday 3 October. In association with Kerry Taylor Auctions, it will offer at auction 140 Petites robes noires, “little back dresses” from the private collection of Didier Ludot. Sotheby’s offered a glimpse of Ludot’s collection in July 2015, when legendary items by the greatest Paris couturiers were exhibited at the Galerie Charpentier, attracting the keen interest of major collectors, women who wished to buy to wear, alike. This second sale celebrates an iconic garment - La petite robe noire (the little black dress), a timeless wardrobe staple that has fascinated couturiers, flattered women and enchanted men for almost a century.  

Lot 1. Paul Poiret Haute couture, 1921, Model 'Madone'. A rare orientalist embroidered satin dress. Estimate 2,000 — 3,000 €.  Lot sold 4,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

La vente du 3 octobre jettera un nouveau coup de projecteur sur ce classique de la mode. Pour accomplir cette mission, Didier Ludot a de nouveau sollicité le savoir-faire de Sotheby’s pour disperser une partie de sa collection : « Je rends aujourd’hui hommage à la fabuleuse épopée de la petite robe noire et aux créateurs qui ont écrit son histoire dont le catalogue se fait l’écho vertigineux, des années Folles aux années 2000. Ces pièces, estimées entre 500 et 5.000 €, que j’ai collectionnées avec passion, ont été créées par les plus grands couturiers, de Chanel à Marc Vaughan, en passant par Jean Patou – dont certaines pièces furent prêtées au Metropolitan Museum de New York – Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Balmain, Yohji Yamamoto. Une vingtaine de robes signées Christian Dior célèbrent les soixante-dix ans de l’illustre maison. Et parce-que la petite robe noire n’aime pas sortir seule, des escarpins de Roger Vivier et des fourrures accompagnent cette sélection. »

The sale on 3 October will offer a fresh look at this fashion classic as Ludot again calls on Sotheby’s savoir-faire to sell part of his collection. “Today I pay tribute to the astonishing story of the little black dress and to the designers who wrote its story, a dizzying tale that finds itself retold in the catalogue, from the Roaring Twenties to the new millennium. Lovingly collected, these pieces – whose estimates range between 800 and 5,000 euros – were created by the greatest of couturiers, from Chanel to Jean Patou to Marc Vaughan. Some of these dresses, by Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Balmain or Yohji Yamamoto, have previously been loaned to the Metropolitan Museum in New York. A group of twenty by Christian Dior worthily celebrate the 70th anniversary of that distinguished house. And as the little black dress doesn’t like to go out by itself, it will be accompanied at the sale by Roger Vivier pumps and a selection of furs.”  

Lot 17. Jean Patou Haute couture, circa 1925, Model 'Nuit de Chine'. A beaded tunic with pagodas and figures. Estimation 2,500 — 3,500 €. Lot sold 20,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

On ne présente plus Didier Ludot, célèbre « antiquaire de mode » français. Son nom court sur les lèvres des esthètes éprises de Haute Couture, en quête de la pièce, unique, chargée d’histoire, qui illuminera leurs garderobes. Venues des quatre coins du monde, elles se pressent dans la célèbre boutique du maître du vintage, sous les arcades du Palais Royal, entre les étoffes de toutes les époques. Depuis plus de quatre décennies et parallèlement à son activité de marchand, Didier Ludot a collectionné une à une les pièces de Haute Couture les plus rares.

Il est aussi l’auteur de l’ouvrage La petite robe noire, paru aux éditions Assouline en septembre 2001, considéré comme une référence sur ce sujet. Huit ans plus tard, il dédiait une exposition à la petite robe noire, dans les vitrines du ministère de la culture, à quelques pas de sa boutique. 

Didier Ludot, the dealer in vintage Haute Couture famous in Paris as the “fashion antiquarian”, hardly needs an introduction. His name is already known to cultivated fashion-lovers in search of a unique piece, rich with history, that will lend new chic to their wardrobes. Women from all over the world know Ludot’s boutique in the arcades of the Palais Royal, where they find the best of old and new. Alongside his business, Didier Ludot has built up, over a period of almost forty years, a private collection of rare and important pieces by the greatest designers. 

He is also the author of La petite robe noire, published by Assouline in September 2001, is considered an essential work of reference on the subject. Eight years later, he curated an exhibition on the Little black dress mounted in the windows of the Ministry of Culture, just around the corner from his shop.  

Lot 67. Grès Haute couture, circa 1935. A silk velvet dinner dress. Estimation 700 — 1,000 €. Lot sold 1,625 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: From the archives of Maison Grès.

La vente retrace l’histoire de la petite robe noire, depuis son apparition en 1926, sous l’égide de Gabrielle Chanel, jusqu’aux créations actuelles de Viktor et Rolf, en passant par le cinéma de la nouvelle Vague. « Qu’on ne se méprenne pas sur l’usage de l’adjectif : « petite »… Il révèle la relation affective qui unit une femme à la robe dont elle se pare. Car la petite robe noire est bien plus qu’un vêtement. Elle est le symbole du chic parisien, un modèle absolu de raffinement, une armure sensuelle dans laquelle se glissèrent des générations de femmes, sublimées par le port de cette toilette transcendante, aux pouvoirs magiques, qui floute les défauts, exalte toutes les beautés et fait tourner les têtes de ceux qui la regardent. Ses ambassadrices s’appellent Monica Vitti, Jeanne Moreau, Delphine Seyrig, Catherine Deneuve ou Monica Bellucci. Objet de convoitise pour les unes, elle est une source intarissable de fantasmes pour les autres. Si elle est « petite » par sa taille – la robe noire se porte courte – elle est immense par son histoire. » (Didier Ludot) 

The Little black dress from its birth in 1926, under the aegis of Coco Chanel, through its role in Nouvelle vague cinema and to the recent creations of Viktor and Rolf, the sale traces the story of the little black dress through almost a century of fashion history. “There should be no misunderstanding about that adjective ‘little’. … It is an expression of the woman’s emotional attachment to the dress she wears. For the little black dress is much more than an item of clothing. It is the symbol of Parisian chic, the very model of refinement, the sensual armour slipped on by generations of women who have found themselves transformed by a sublime raiment that forgives their failings and glorifies their virtues, turning heads everywhere it went. Its ambassadors have been Monica Vitti, Jeanne Moreau, Delphine Seyrig, Catherine Deneuve and Monica Bellucci. An object of must-haves for some, it is an inexhaustible inspiration of fantasy for others. While it may be ‘little’ in size – the black dress has always been worn short – it is immense in the story it tells.” (Didier Ludot).  

Lot 125. Agnes Drecoll Haute couture, 1936. A pin-tucked crepe dinner dress with chartreuse-yellow bow. Estimation 600 — 1,000 €. Lot Sold 1,125 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: Wardrobe of Mademoiselle Carole Laure, a celebrated French actress.

Lot 102. Jeanne Lanvin Haute couture, été 1937. A crepe afternoon dress trimmed with silver leather, with quilted shoulders. Estimation 1,000 — 1,500 €. Lot Sold 4,375 €.  Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: Wardrobe of Mademoiselle Carole Laure, a celebrated French actress.

Lot 122. Martial et Armand Haute couture, 1938. A silk satin dress. Estimation 600 — 900 €. Lot Sold 563 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 103. Robert Piguet Haute couture, 1939. A biais-cut satin dinner dress. Estimation 600 — 900 €. Lot Sold 4,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 53. Marcelle Tizeau Haute couture, circa 1944. A draped silk jersey evening dress. Estimation 600 — 900 €. Lot Sold 625 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 137. Madame Grès Haute couture, 1944. A draped jersey day dress. Estimation 800 — 1,000 €. Lot Sold 2,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Exhibition: A similar dress in green was presented at the exhibition la couture à l'oeuvre, Musée Galliera Hors les murs, musée Bourdelle, Paris, 2011. The New York Fashion institute of Technology also holds a similar model in brown.

Lot 158. Lucien Lelong, Haute couture, 1946. A crepe afternoon dress. Estimation 800 — 1,000 €. Lot Sold 5,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 28. Jeanne Lanvin Haute couture, 1947. A wool crepe day dress with drapes and accentuated padded shoulders. Estimation 2,500 — 3,500 €. Lot Sold 625 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 74. Marcelle Alix Haute couture, 1948 A draped draped silk jersey afternoon dress. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 2,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 66. Balenciaga Haute couture, Automn-winter 1950. An evening dress with fringes and shawl-like halter-neck. Estimation 1,500 — 2,500 €. Lot Sold 4,375 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 156. Carven Haute couture, 1950. A brocaded cotton afternoon dress. Estimation 600 — 900 €. Lot Sold 563 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 83. Jacques Griffe Haute couture, 1951. A short lace evening dress. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 4,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Note: Jacques Griffe was the disciple of Madeleine Vionnet during the Interwar period.

Lot 147. Jacques Fath, 1951. A velvet dinner dress. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 625 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Provenance: Wardrobe of the actress Josette Day.

Lot 24. Christian Dior Haute couture, automne-hiver 1951-1952. A cocktail dress "Ligne longue" of Staron pin-taffeta silk. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Lot Sold 9,375 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: Wardrobe of Mrs.Georges Descrières.

Lot 100. Jacques Fath Haute couture, 1952. A silk faille dinner dress. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 105. Bruyère Haute couture, 1952. A silk satin cocktail dress. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 127. Hermès, 1952. Model 'Hermeselle', a rare cotton dress printed with trompe-l'oeil details. Estimation 1,000 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 21,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 144. Marcel Rochas Haute couture, 1952. A felted wool day dress. Estimation 1,000 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 4,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 40. Balenciaga Haute couture (Eisa), 1953. A gros de Naples dinner dress embroidered with carnations. Estimation 3,000 — 5,000 €. Lot Sold 18,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliography: Balenciaga, Cristobal Balenciaga Museum, pp. 200-201

Note: A similar model is held in the collection of the Cristobal Balenciaga Foundation in Getaria.

Lot 72. Jacques Fath Haute couture, 1953. A lurex-flecked wool dinner dress. Estimation 600 — 800 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 133. Marcel Rochas Haute couture, 1953. A cocktail ensemble with a draped yellow taffeta bodice over a midnight blue organza skirt. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Lot Sold 1,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: Dress presented in: Sophie Rochas, Marcel Rochas: audace et élégance, Flammarion, Paris, 2015, p. 261. 

Lot 51. Pierre Balmain Haute couture, 1954. A taffeta evening dress. Estimation 1,500 — 2,500 €. Lot Sold 1,375 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 69. Pierre Balmain Haute couture, 1955. Model 'Berlin', a silk faille and velvet dance dress. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 1,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: Runway model, from the wardrobe of the iconic Balmain model Paulette.

Lot 89. Jean Dessès Haute couture, 1955. A silk jersey afternoon dress. Estimation 500 — 900 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: A similar model was illustrated in L'art et la mode magazine, n°2770, p. 76.

Lot 68. Jacques Heim, 1956. A crepe cocktail dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Lot Sold 375 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: From the wardrobe of a celebrated French actress.

Lot 108. Nina Ricci, 1956. A striped satin cocktail ensemble. Estimation 600 — 900 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 121. Christian Dior Haute couture, circa 1956. Line 'Y", a gabardine wool day dress with a pleated bodice. Estimation 1,800 — 2,200 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 129. Jacques Griffe Haute couture, 1956. A silk faille cocktail dress. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 875 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 2. Givenchy, Haute couture automne-hiver 1956-1957. A duchess satin dinner dress. Estimation 1,800 — 2,500 €. Lot Sold 1,875 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 87. Balenciaga Haute couture, Autumn-Winter 1957. A Marescot lace baby doll dress. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Lot Sold 12,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: Similar model presented in: Balenciaga: Magicien de la dentelle, Somogy Editions d'art, Paris, 2015, pp. 80-81.

Lot 109. Pierre Balmain Haute couture, automne-hiver 1957. A silk faille cockail dress. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 688 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 20. Balenciaga Haute couture, printemps-été 1958. A draped sleeveless georgette dress. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 60. Jean Dessès Haute couture, 1958. A draped silk chiffon dress. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: Similar model presented in L'art et la mode, n°III, p.81, 1958.

Lot 54. Christian Dior par Yves Saint Laurent, 1958. A slubbed wool cocktail dress and bolero. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 2,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 123. Christian Dior Haute couture par Yves Saint Laurent, printemps-été 1959. Model 'Black Swan', a tulle and lace cocktail dress. Estimation 5,000 — 6,000 €. Lot Sold 8,125 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 14. Christian Dior Haute couture par Yves Saint Laurent, printemps-été 1959. A tulle dance dress adorned with ribbons and lace. Estimation 5,000 — 6,000 €. Lot Sold 12,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliography: Similar dress presented in: L'Officiel 1000 modèles, Dior: 60 ans de création, Editions Jalou, Paris, n°81, p. 59.

Lot 128. Christian Dior Haute couture par Yves Saint Laurent printemps-été 1959. A slubbed silk cocktail dress. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 3,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 96. Christian Dior Haute couture par Yves Saint Laurent, automne-hiver 1959-1960. A crepe and knitted wool afternoon dress. Estimation 2,500 — 3,500 €. Lot Sold 5,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 55. Chanel Haute couture, 1960. A silk chiffon cocktail dress with taffeta bow. Estimation 2,500 — 2,000 €. Lot Sold 8,125 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 35. Christian Dior Haute couture par Yves Saint Laurent, automne-hiver 1960-1961. A velvet dinner dress with silk bobble edging. Estimation 1,500 — 2,500 €. Lot Sold 6,875 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 49. Christian Dior Haute couture par Yves Saint Laurent, automne-hiver 1960-1961. A silk faille cocktail dress adorned with bows. Estimation 1,200 — 1,500 €. Lot Sold 6,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 3. Balenciaga Haute couture, spring-summer 1961. Estimation 800 — 1,000 €. Unsold Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 114. Pierre Cardin Haute couture, 1962. A day dress of Raimon crêpe. Estimation 500 — 900 €. Lot Sold 4,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 5. Chanel Haute couture, automne-hiver 1962-1963. A silk chiffon pleated cocktail dress. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 6,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 159. Chanel Haute couture, 1964. A wrap dress in matelassé silk edged in flounces of organza. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 12,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Exhibition: A similar dress was presented in : ELLE, Levallois-Perret, Editions Lagardère Active, 28 août 1964.

Lot 75. Balenciaga Haute couture, Printemps-été 1964. A cocktail dress of Rebé beaded tulle over a bottle green silk crêpe under-dress. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 13,125 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 143. Balenciaga Haute couture, spring-summer 1964. A crepe afternoon dress with a curved low cowl back. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 21,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: Similar dress presented in: Mona Bismarck, Cristobal Balenciaga, Cecil Beaton, Mona Bismarck American Center for art & culture, Mona Bismarck Foundation, Paris, 1994, p. 69.

Lot 56. Balenciaga Haute couture, 1965. A dinner dress of Bucol cloqué silk. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 4. Pierre Balmain haute couture 1965. A  silk crepe dinner dress. Estimation 600 — 900 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 115. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, automne-hiver 1965-1966. An evening dress of Marescot sequins. Estimation 2,500 — 3,500 €. Lot Sold 2,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: Wardrobe of a famous french actress.

Lot 16. Ungaro Haute couture, 1966 A suede mini dress. Estimation 700 — 1,000 €. Lot Sold 938 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 26. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, Automne-Hiver 1967-1968. A suede mini dress with gold-sequinned sleeves by Marescot. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Lot Sold 1,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliography: Similar dress presented in: L'officiel 1000 modèles: Yves Saint Laurent, éditions Jalou, Paris, hors-série, p.40

Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint Laurent, l'oeuvre intégral, Haute couture 1962-2002, Editions de la Martinière, Paris, 2010, Boîte 1 Planche 05/10 folio 165.

Lot 78. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, automne-hiver 1968-1969. A "Moroccan crepe" dress with jewelled medallions by Lesage. Estimation 4,000 — 6,000 €. Lot Sold 6,875 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliography: Similar model in:

Pierre Bergé, Yves Saint Laurent, l'œuvre intégral, Haute couture 1962-2002, Éditions de la Martinière, Paris, 2010, Boîte 1 Planche 6/10 folio 190. 

Yves Saint Laurent, Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent, Éditions de la Martinière, Paris, 2010, p. 350.

Lot 79. Pierre Balmain Haute couture, automne-hiver 1968-1969. A short evening dress of ziberline and velvet by Bianchini Ferier. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 4,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: Similar dress presented in: Guillaume Garnier, Pierre Balmain: 40 années de création, Musée de la mode et du costume, Paris, 1985, p. 217.

Lot 50. Pierre Cardin Haute couture, 1969. Model 'Car wash', a wool crepe cocktail dress with streamer-like fringes. Estimation 1,200 — 1,800 €. Lot Sold 21,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 15. Pierre Cardin, 1970. A day dress of Racine jersey. Estimation 600 — 1,000 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 139. Pierre Cardin, Haute couture 1970. A crepe day dress with skirt of looped fringes. Estimation 600 — 1,000 €. Lot Sold 1,188 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 25. Marc Vaughan Haute couture, 1971. A silk shantung cocktail dress. Estimation 600 — 1,000 €. Lot sold 2,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: From the wardrobe of Madame Marc Vaughan, who presented this dress during the runway.

Lot 81. Chanel Haute couture par Gaston Berthelot, 1972. A Marescot lace dinner dress with organza flounces. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot sold 1,625 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 34. Christian Dior Haute couture par Marc Bohan, 1972. A short cigaline evening dress adorned with gilt sequins by Vermont. Estimation 1,000 — 1,500 €. Lot sold 3,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 136. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, 1974. A chiffon shirt-waister crepe dress with a narrow leather belt. Estimation 700 — 1,000 €. Lot sold 650 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 152. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, automne-hiver 1974-1975. A crepe de chine day dress. Estimation 700 — 900 €. Lot sold 1,188 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: Similar dress presented in: L'Officiel 1000 modèles: Yves Saint Laurent, Editions Jalou, Paris, hors-série, p. 70.

Lot 134. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, automne-hiver 1976-1977. Collection 'Ballets Russes', A velvet evening dress with fringes. Estimation 2,500 — 3,500 €. Lot sold 4,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 63. Grès Haute couture, circa 1979. A midnight blue silk jersey evening gown. Estimation 3,000 — 4,000 €. Lot sold 2,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 32. Christian Dior Haute couture par Marc Bohan, 1982 A silk velvet short evening gown with organza petals. Estimation 1,000 — 1,500 €. Lot sold 4,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 12. Valentino Haute couture, 1984. A pleated taffeta and velvet dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Unsold. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 7. Chanel par Karl Lagerfeld, 1985. A crepe sheath with gold beaded 'sunburst' to bodice, embroidered by Lesage. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Lot sold 2,125 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 37. Thierry Mugler, 1985. A velvet evening dress with rhinestone studded collar. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Lot sold 500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 9. Helmut Lang, circa 1985. A minimalist silk dress with stepped organza back pattern. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 41. Ungaro (attributed to) Haute couture, circa 1985 A short sequinned Marescot lace evening dress with hem and rosette of pink taffeta. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 39. Christian Dior Haute couture par Marc Bohan, printemps-été 1985. A short cloqué silk strapless dress. Estimation 1,000 — 1,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 27. Chanel by Karl Lagerfeld, automne-hiver 1985-1986. An asymmetric wool crepe cocktail dress with gilt chains cascading from rear shoulder. Estimation 800 — 1,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Note: A similar dress was worn by Inès de la Fressange. 

Lot 117. Jean Paul Gaultier, 1988. A satin corset dress. Estimation 500 — 800 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 8. Paco Rabanne, circa 1990. A jersey dress with gilt metal yoke. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 112. Paco Rabanne Haute couture, automne-hiver 1990-1991. A crepe dress with a metal lattice inserts. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 65. Thierry Mugler, automne-hiver 1990-1991. Model "Kessler". An asymmetric velvet and satin evening gown. Estimation 800 — 1,200 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 140. Montana, 1991. A  'ribbon' party dress,  the chiffon ground applied with vertical satin strips. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.  

Lot 31. Nina Ricci Haute couture par Gérard Pipart, 1992. A faille and taffeta 50s inspired gown, the waist outlined with bows. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 80. Alaïa, 1992. A stretch lace party dress. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Exhibition: A similar dress was presented during the Azzedine Alaïa exhibition at the Musée Galliera, Paris, September 28th 2013 - January 26th 2014.

Lot 84. Montana, 1992. An organza trapeze-line dress. Estimation 300 — 500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 111. Montana, 1992. A silk organza mini dress. Estimation 300 — 500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 150. Dolce & Gabanna, 1992. A latticed lace dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 29. Christian Lacroix, 1994. A pleated draped chiffon dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 131. Christian Lacroix, 1994. A short guipure and chartreuse satin evening dress. Estimation  400 — 600  EUR. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 57. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, Printemps-Eté 1995. A reinterpretation of the iconic 'Le smoking' in black silk crepe. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: Prototype from catwalk.

Lot 107. Jean Paul Gaultier, circa 1995. A smocked chiffon day dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 141. Vivienne Westwood, circa 1995. A velvet day dress. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 101. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, circa 1995. A tuxedo-inspired wool dinner dress. Estimation 800 — 1,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 42. Yves Saint Laurent Haute couture, automne-hiver 1995-1996. A silk velvet cocktail dress. Estimation 700 — 1,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 71. Gucci par Tom Ford, 1996. A crepe dress with leather collar. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 149. Atelier Versace Haute couture, circa 1996. A stretch-crepe bodycon cocktail dress. Estimation 500 — 900 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 120. Givenchy Haute couture par John Galliano, Automne-Hiver 1996 -1997. 'Empress Josephine' Collection , a rare short beaded cocktail dress. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 145. Prada, 1997. A high-tech fabric day dress. Estimation 2,000 — 3,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 48. Givenchy par Alexander McQueen fall/winter 1998-1999. A short evening dress entirely covered with jet-black bugle beads. Estimation 1,000 — 1,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 118. Yohji Yamamoto, circa 2000. A knitted wool dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 146. Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, circa 2000. An organdy day dress. Estimation 300 — 400 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 38. Givenchy Haute couture par Julien Macdonald, automne-hiver 2002-2003. An asymmetric wool dinner dress. Estimation 800 — 1,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Note: Prototype modelled by Stella Tennant.

Lot 73. Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche par Tom Ford, automne-hiver 2002-2003. A wool cocktail dress with velvet ribbon collar. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 90. Alexander McQueen, pré-collection automne-hiver 2004-2005. A wool crepe day dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 22. Junya Watanabe, printemps-été 2005. A ‘zipper’ dress. Estimation 1,000 — 1,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Note: Similar dress held in the Metropolitan Museum of Art collection, New York.

Lot 85. Viktor & Rolf, printemps-été 2005. A crepe and satin day dress. Estimation 300 — 400 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 47. Yves Saint Laurent par Stefano Pilati, automne-hiver 2005-2006. A wool day dress with heart-shaped décolletage. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 142. Zac Posen, 2006. A  satin 'Egyptian' dress. Estimation 600 — 800 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Provenance: Special order for the personal collection of Didier Ludot.

Lot 155. Lanvin par Alber Elbaz, Automne-Hiver 2006. An afternoon dress of guipure lace patchwork. Estimation 300 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 132. Rue du Mail par Martine Sitbon, 2007. A brushed wool and silk dress. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Lot 64. Rue du Mail par Martine Sitbon, automne-hiver 2007-2008. A silk velvet and ivory taffeta cocktail dress. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s. 

Bibliographie: "A l'adolescence, mon premier vrai choix, ma première robe fut une petite robe noire... Elle ne m'a jamais quittée..." Martine Sitbon.

Lot 104. John Galliano, Automne-Hiver 2007-2008. A chantilly lace slip dress with velvet ribbons. Estimation 300 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 13. Givenchy par Riccardo Tisci, printemps-été 2008. A day dress with metallic eyelets. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 106. Jean Paul Gaultier, 2009. A panne velvet dinner dress with a lace jabot. Estimation 300 — 500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 19. Christian Lacroix, 2010. A lace and velvet cocktail dress. Estimation 300 — 500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Provenance: Wardrobe of princess Toussoun

Une dizaine d’escarpins de Roger Vivier

Afin de parfaire ce défilé, le catalogue comprend également une dizaine de créations de Roger Vivier, dont certains modèles, d’une grande rareté, furent conçus pour Christian Dior et brodés par la maison Rébé. Ces délicats souliers aux couleurs éclatantes souligneront la pureté des petites robes noires. Citons, entre autres merveilles, une paire d’escarpins au bout turc, ou encore une paire en soie bleu canard rehaussée de plumes de martin pêcheur.

Shoes by Roger Vivier 
To complete the look, the catalogue also includes a dozen creations by Roger Vivier, some of them extremely rare, designed for Christian Dior and embroidered by Rebé. The colour and brilliance of these delicate shoes perfectly set off the sobriety of the little black dress. One might mention, among other triumphs, a pair of pumps with Ottoman toe, and another in duck-blue silk trimmed in kingfisher feathers. 

Kerry Taylor, specialist fashion auctioneer says of the collection: “Didier Ludot has a genius for spotting historically important dresses which are at the same time super-wearable which makes the gowns objects of desire on so many levels. Although some may be regarded as museum pieces – I’m sure that others will be seen at elegant soirees in the years to come."

Lot 151. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier. A pair of embroidered satin shoes. Estimation 500 — 700 €. Lot Sold 1,375 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 23. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier, 1955-1957. A pair of satin evening shoes with metal thread embroidered by Rébé. Estimation 2,000 — 2,500 €. Lot Sold 6,875 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 86. Roger Vivier pour Christian Dior, 1955-1957 A pair of lace and satin evening shoes embroidered by Rébé. Estimation 1,000 — 1,200 €. Lot Sold 4,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 95. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier, 1955-1957. A pair of black lace shoes. Estimation 600 — 1,000 €. Lot sold 563 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 119. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier 1955 - 1957. A pair of floral Staron silk shoes. Estimation 600 — 1,000 €. Lot sold 2,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 135. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier, 1955 - 1957. Shoes embroidered with fringes of beads by Rébé. Estimation 700 — 1,000 €. Lot sold 3,500 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 157.  Christian Dior par Roger Vivier 1955 - 1957. A pair of evening shoes of floral chiné Staron satin. Estimation 1,000 — 1,200 €. Lot sold 4,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 52. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier, 1957. A pair of turkish-inspired turquoise silk evening shoes with curved toes, embroidered by Rébé. Estimation 2,000 — 2,500 €. Lot sold 15,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Bibliographie: Farid Chenoune, Dior, Assouline, Paris, 2007, p.50.

Lot 82. Roger Vivier pour Christian Dior, 1957. A pair of kingfisher feather and trompe-l'oeil printed shoes. Estimation 2,000 — 2,500 €. Lot sold 5,250 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Exhibition: A similar model is kept in the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art collection.

Bibliography: Similar model presented in: Les souliers de Roger Vivier, catalogue d'exposition, Paris, Musée des arts de la mode (9 décembre 1987 -13 mars 1988), Paris, 1987, book cover.

Lot 10. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier, 1957-1959. A pair of evening shoes covered in pink tulle couched and embroidered overall in metal strip, and covered with shimmering rhinestones, pearl beaded bands and coloured crystal droplets, embroidered by Rébé. Estimation 1,500 — 2,500 €. Lot Sold 23,750 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 124. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier circa 1957-1963. A pair of ruby satin sling backs with rhinestone bands. Estimation 800 — 1,000 €. Lot sold 2,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 91. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier, 1959. A pair of gilt leather shoes. Estimation 1,000 — 1,200 €. Lot sold 3,000 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 11. Christian Dior par Roger Vivier, circa 1960. A pair of slingback evening shoes trimmed with satin bows edged in beaded fringes. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Lot Sold 313 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 62. Roger Vivier pour Givenchy, 1963. A pair of shoes of printed pink and white Sache silk with bows. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Lot sold 563 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 94. Roger Vivier, 1965. A pair of silk satin shoes with tortoiseshell-like bakelite buckles. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Lot sold 350 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 116. Roger Vivier, 1966. Leather shoes with metallic buckles. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Lot sold 350 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.

Lot 46. Roger Vivier, 1967. A pair of black patent leather shoes with red and cream applique circles. Estimation 400 — 600 €. Lot sold 350 €. Courtesy Sotheby’s.