'Minas Novas' necklace, Portugal, 18th century. Silver and quartz, 9.5 x 33.5 cm; Weight 100.5 gr. © J. Baptista

Articulated links studded with 'Minas Novas' (colourless quartz) with a large bow in the centre, applications of stylised botanical elements and a removable dove

Literature: similar pieces illustrated in Orey, Leonor d'-Cinco Séculos de Joalharia-Museu Nacional de Arte Antiga, Instituto Português de Museus/Zwemmer, Lisbon/London, 1995, pp. 92-94

Belle Epoque sapphire & diamond Chaumet bow brooch, circa 1910 © Pauline's Jewellery Box

Set with sapphires and diamonds. Estimated total sapphire weight 10.00 carats. Estimated total diamond weight 15.00 carats. The diamonds are bright and lively, mounted in platinum and 18kt yellow gold. Stamped with French hallmarks and maker’s marks: 280-470-4320 / 89834

Provenance: France

Belle Epoque diamond Boucheron tiara, circa 1915 © Pauline's Jewellery Box

Early 20th century diamond Boucheron tiara, set with three central pear-shaped diamonds weighing 3.14 carats each, with a colour grade of E and clarity grade of IF. The second pear-shaped diamond weighs 2.65 carats, with a colour grade of H and clarity grade of SI. The third pear-shaped diamond weighs 2.94 carats, with a colour grade of F and clarity grade of VS2. The estimated total diamond weight is 28.00 - 30.00 carats. The tiara is mounted in platinum. Each pear-shaped diamond is accompanied by a Lab certificate from GIA

Provenance: France.

René Lalique (Ay 1860-1945 Paris), Necklace 'Couple of Dragonflies', circa 1905. Yellow gold, tourmalines, diamonds, enamel and plique-a-jour. © Galerie BG Arts.

Provenance: Sotheby's sale, London, 3 December 1998, lot 102; private collection, London; Galerie BG Arts, Paris

Literature: For a similar model: Sigrid Barten, René Lalique Schmuk und Objects d'Art 1890-1910, Munich, 1977, ill. p. 344, n° 733

A magnificent Art Deco Diamond Tiara by Chaumet. © Epoque Fine Jewels.

This tiara was made in Paris in 1909 as a wedding tiara for the daughter of Count and Countess de Heeren. Chaumet retains all the original drawings, as well as the nickel silver model created as a preliminary design for the final piece, which is preserved in the Chaumet archives. The tiara features a series of rounded Greek motifs, set with 2096 diamonds, mounted in platinum and gold, showcasing the typical ‘mille-grain’ finish.

Founded in 1780, Chaumet has designed over 2,000 unique tiaras. While most tiaras from that era adhered to the Garland style or traditional 19th-century floral and scroll motifs, this particular piece is an early example of the geometric aesthetics that would come to define the Art Deco period, which reached its zenith in the 1920s. The tiara was featured in the ‘Chaumet en Majesté’ exhibition at the Grimaldi Forum in Monaco in 2019, where the nickel silver model was also displayed. The tiara is currently housed in a special Chaumet case, created for the Monaco exhibition.

Total diamond weight: 28,10 carats.

Collection Epoque Fine Jewels, Belgium.

Chaumet. Art Deco bracelet © Epoque Fine Jewels.

Emerald and diamond bracelet of geometrical design by Chaumet, set throughout with old European cut and old single cut diamonds, highlighted with six engraved, baton-shaped Colombian emeralds, with rose cut diamond and black enamel caps, mounted in platinum and gold.
Total emerald weight: approx. 14,67 ct.
Total diamond weight: approx. 13,67 ct.
Accompanied by the Chaumet certificate of authenticity, Paris, December 1930

Art Deco diamond ring © Pauline's Jewellery Box

Set with an old cushion cut diamond weighing approximately 9.26 carats. Estimated colour J. Estimated clarity SI2. The diamonds are bright and lively, mounted in platinum.

Provenance: France.

Cartier ring. Gold, platinum, turquoise and diamonds, circa 1965 © Bernard Bouisset

Boucheron, circa 1970. Set of four gold, platinum and diamond bracelets and set of four gold, platinum, diamond, onyx and rock crystal bracelets © Bernard Bouisset

Boucheron, circa 1970. Convertible long necklace, pendant/brooch and clip-on earrings. The necklace can be converted into four bracelets. Gold, platinum, diamonds, onyx and rock crystal © Bernard Bouisset

André Lamy (Belgium, 1936-1975), Abstract modernist brooch, circa 1970. White and yellow 18kt gold, lapis lazuli. Designed for the jeweller Fernand Demaret. Unique piece © Collectors Gallery

Provenance: from Mr. Lamy's family

Tiffany & Co (USA). Lapis lazuli, black jade and mother-of-pearl 'rope' bangle bracelet, 1980s. Signed T&Co. Marked 750, © and 18K © VKD Jewels

Natalia Dumitresco (Bucharest 1915-1997 Paris), Abstract 'Ravene' bracelet, 1986; 18kt gold and enamel. Artist's jewel - Limited edition by Artcurial © Collectors Gallery.

Arman (Nice 1928-2005 New York), Bracelet instruments, 2005. White gold 18 kt and diamonds; 8 examples. © Barbara Bassi

Fausto Melotti (Rovereto 1901-1986 Milan), Brooch/pendant 'Grata', circa 1978. Rose gold 18 kt and corals; 8 examples © Barbara Bassi

Van Cleef & Arpels brooch, Paris, 18K with 201 brilliant and 40 cabochon onyx stones, signed and numbered, circa 1960 © Cabinet of Curiosities-Honourable Silver Objects

Cartier bracelet, Paris, 18K trinity yellow gold with brilliant approx. 6.45 ct, signed and numbered © Cabinet of Curiosities-Honourable Silver Objects

Cartier earrings, Paris, 18K trinity yellow gold with 90 diamonds 1.80 ct, signed and numbered © Cabinet of Curiosities-Honourable Silver Objects

Provenance: private collection

Van Cleef & Arpels. Panther brooch, last quarter of the 20th century. Onyx, emerald and diamond © Epoque Fine Jewels

A stalking panther set throughout with brilliant cut diamonds, highlighted with onyx dots, marquise-shaped emerald eyes and an onyx nose, mounted in 18 karat yellow gold. Signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered

Provenance: from an important estate

Cartier. Panther brooch, beginning of the 21st century. Onyx, emerald and diamond © Epoque Fine Jewels.

A graceful, strolling panther set throughout with brilliant cut diamonds, highlighted with buff-top onyx dots and pear-shaped emerald eyes, mounted in platinum and 18 karat gold. Signed Cartier and numbered

Provenance: from an important estate

Belgian blood runs through Cartier’s iconic Panther
The Cartier onyx and diamond Panther brooch is an iconic piece of jewelry, symbolizing both elegance and boldness. This brooch features a meticulously crafted panther, its sleek body encrusted with sparkling diamonds, and its spots highlighted by black onyx. Emeralds accentuate the eyes, giving the panther a piercing gaze. The craftsmanship involved in this piece demonstrates Cartier's attention to detail and mastery of combining precious stones to create lifelike and sculptural representations of animals.

The panther motif has become synonymous with Cartier, and much of this can be attributed to Belgian fashion and jewelry designer Jeanne Toussaint, who played a transformative role in the Cartier’s design evolution. Jeanne Toussaint was born in Charleroi in 1887 and raised in a family of lacemakers who made her aware of fashion and style from a young age. She moved to Paris where she was introduced to French society. She soon became acquainted with Coco Chanel, the illustrator George Barbier and, most importantly, Louis Cartier who was enthralled with Toussaint’s taste for fashion. In 1913, he hired her to coordinate his company's accessories, handbags and objects. After first being promoted to head Cartier's silver department in 1918, in 1933 Louis Cartier conferred on her full responsibility for artistic design, an area which until then he had directed himself. Jeanne Toussaint, also called ‘La Panthère’, was a visionary designer whose style pushed boundaries. Known for her boldness, independence, and exceptional taste, she introduced themes of nature and exoticism into Cartier’s collections, with the panther becoming her most famous symbol.

In a historical context, Jeanne Toussaint’s influence extended beyond mere aesthetics; she redefined femininity in jewelry. At a time when women’s roles in high society were changing, Toussaint’s designs, like the Panther brooch, mirrored a new sense of power, freedom, and sophistication for women. The most famous panther was a brooch commissioned by Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor in 1948, a woman known for her daring fashion choices. This association cemented the panther’s status as a symbol of fierce femininity and strength.

Toussaint’s contribution to Cartier and the world of luxury jewelry endures, with the panther motif becoming one of the most enduring and recognizable emblems in Cartier’s history. Through pieces like this onyx and diamond panther brooch, she left an indelible mark on 20th-century design, blending the opulence of diamonds with the mystery and power of the panther, embodying both grace and danger.
Jeanne Toussaint retired from Cartier in 1970 and died in Paris on 7 May 1976.

Mario Buccellati, Necklace and earrings set. White gold 18 kt, oval and round diamonds, necklace total ct. 52,02 and earrings total ct. 10,52 © Barbara Bassi.

Published in the catalogue Buccellati, Ed. Skira, p. 115.

Mario Buccellati (Italy, 1891-1965), Bracelet in 18K yellow gold. Length 20.7 cm; Weight 114 gr. Stamped with the maker's mark, the Italian gold assay hallmark and signed 'M. Buccellati' © Sophie Derom

Seaman Schepps (USA). Rock crystal, onyx and diamond 'buckle' bracelet, circa 2000. Comprising five carved rock crystal buckle-shaped links connected by bridge-shaped diamond set onyx links. Diamond carat weight is approx. 6.00 carats total. Maker's mark of Seaman Schepps and stamped 750 assay mark for 18k white gold. © VKD Jewels.

Sophia Vari (Greece, Vari 1940-2003 Monte Carlo, Monaco), Abstract 'Menelas' brooch, 2014, 18kt gold and ebony. Unique piece © Collectors Gallery.

Provenance: the artist's studio.

Luz Camino (Madrid), Frittilaria earrings, 2023 © VKD Jewels.

Pair of flower earrings set in silver, gold and platinum. Embellished with enamel, sapphires, chrome, diopside and diamonds. Signed LC for Luz Camino. Edition of 5.

'Ca' d'Oro' necklace and earrings. Rose gold set with brown diamonds © Gioielleria Nardi

These pieces are inspired by the famous 15th century Gothic palazzo facing the Grand Canal.

'Collezione Leone' ring, earrings and bracelet. Gold and burnished silver set with diamond © Gioielleria Nardi.

This collection is a reinterpretation of the Lion as a fearless creature as well as a symbol of Venice.

'Basilica della Salute' pendant. Yellow gold set with yellow sapphires and diamonds © Gioielleria Nardi.

This piece represents an interpretation of the Basilica della Salute church on the Grand Canal.