Andrew GN: Crumpets & Couture in Harper's Bazaar
Photography: Hugh Stewart, Models: Cosima Pavoncelli, Karen Groos, Bina von Stauffenberg, Brooke de Ocampo and Catherine Prevost
He might not have a famous meatloaf recipe up his sleeve, but that doesn't stop his devoted admirers from comparing Paris-based designer Andrew Gn to the late Bill Blass. "I am reminded of that famous photograph of Blass surrounded by his coterie of chic, wonderful swans- Chessy Rayner and Mica Ertegun," says American-born, London-based jeweler Catherine Prevost. "One feels protectively toward Andrew, like those women felt around Blass."
Prevost, of course, is one of Gn's swans, and today she has thrown open the doors of her new home -- a Gosford Park- like 19th century mansion, with oak paneling, an imposing entry hall and wildly high ceiling, in London's swanky Kensington -- to host a private trunk show-cum-tea party for Gn and his closest clients. They include Bright Young Things author Brooke de Ocampo, Karen Groos, Cosima Pavoncelli (nee von Bulow), and Bina von Stauffenberg; all but the last are New York ex-pats. "A lot of designers don't socialize with their clients and I feel privileged," Gn says of the women with whom he's on a first-name basis (including Marie-Chantal of Greece, both of the Lauder sister, Nadja Swarovski, Tamara Mellon, Jessica de Rothschild and Lynn Wyatt) "There's nothing more rewarding, more pleasurable, than to see my clothes worn by real women. Actually, it's as good as seeing them in magazines."
"Andrew makes you feel like dressing up," says de Ocampo. "I can't think of anyone who does quite what he does." Singapore-born Gn, 38, who describes himself as "Fashion's Father Christmas" because he has "something for everyone," has earned a reputation as the go-to guy for elegant, richly detailed clothes. He debuted in Paris in 1996, had "a one-season flop at Balmain in 1998," and has been expanding his business, catering to a diverse clientele, ever since. "I am not obsessed with dressing someone who is 25. My clients range from 18 to 90, and I love that." Nor is he a fascist when it comes to size. "If the cut is good, weight is irrelevant," he says. "Look at bigger women like Helena Rubinstein: She wore practically everything in her time -- Dior, Schiaparelli; Balenciaga -- and she always looked fantastic."
For the women gathered at Prevost's home today, weight is currently not the issue. Although cream cakes and fruit goodies are displayed on the Meissen china, which Gn notes is "very Alice in Wonderland," no one is eating, really. Instead, clothes are being consumed. De Ocampo is contemplating a lightly beaded georgette top. "It's a little transparent," she says. Gn thrown a white Alaskan mink shrug over her shoulders, covering "all the naughty bits." Pavoncelli opts for a tight boucle skirt and a black sequined sweater- a piece of "glitzed-up sportswear." According to the designer. Meanwhile, von Staffenberg slips into a silver satin dress and a silver fox-fur shrugg. "Bina reminds me of Gloria Swanson," Gn muses. "But pre-, pre-, pre-Sunset Boulevard!" Prevost is wearing a black version of the same dress, which flaunts her hourglass figure. "Catherine, you look just like Jessica Rabbit," says the desinger. Groos is the last to settle on an outfit: She appears, wearing a pink satin shirt with a mink collar. "Hmm. Not everyone could get away with that look," offers Gn. "But Karen has cheeky smile on her face that makes it fun rather than cutesy." Gn passes around the white-chocolate cake, describing it, fittingly, as "super-fatkins. Eat this and lose weight." By Natasha Fraser-Cavassoni
