A Court Mantua of Chinese Imperial yellow silk damask; the silk circa 1740, the mantua 1750s

Lot 108. the bodice with long sweeping train of elaborately folded damask buttoning in swags onto two silk covered buttons at the small of the back, the bodice re pleated as a closed robe, the petticoats re-strung, shown here worn with a stomacher which is part of lot 141 Estimate: £15,000-20,000

Note : The mantua was the most formal gown a lady could aspire to and was almost exclusively used at court and for important weddings. Mrs Delaney for example, gives detailed accounts of her contemporaries' mantuas at various royal weddings she attended. They were intended to make a statement. In this case, the bold use of Imperial yellow silk damask adds exoticism to the appearance of this lady, speaking of her ability to acquire silks and luxuries from the farthest corners of the world for her own adornment.

Note on the silk: The Chinese were weaving silks for the European market at this time. However, this damask is not woven with traditional European flowers but woven instead with traditional Chinese Bhuddist motifs and lotus pods.

Sotheby's. Fine Costume & Textiles: The Collector's Sale. 4 December 2007. 85 Old Brompton Road, London